Click on the pictures to enlarge them.

Set Up

Insert the Blade

  • This is for the Liyu style blade holder, from the shop..
  • First take the protective cover off of the carbide knife
  • Carefully position it into the cutter body, no need to push a magnet should suck it in.
  • Then use the screw on the end to adjust it so it sticks out the approximate thickness of your material. It isn’t much, more than paper, less than a credit card.
  • Do not touch the end that little knife will slice you very quickly.
  • The button on the end is to push the blade out for removal.


Set the Depth Of Cut

  • Try and hold the cutter as perpendicular to the work material as possible and draw a circle on a hard flat smooth surface, glass or similar.
  • If you go through the paper like the second photo you are much too deep, adjust the blade and locking ring again.
  • Keep adjusting and drawing circles to get the depth right.
  • The third picture looks close but if you look at the paper backing in the 4th picture it is still a bit too deep.


Ideal Depth

  • What you are looking for is all the way through the material and a slight dent in the paper backing, but not a cut. It can be tricky if you have never done it before but with a little practice it only take a try or two.
  • The blade is barely visible.
  • The depth will change depending on your use but you are always looking to just barely leave a mark on the carrier material.


The Mount



The Machine

  • The lease expensive solution I could find for a nice cutting surface was a cheap 1′ square mirror. Just make sure to set your blade depth correctly, pretty sure the carbide can score the glass and make for a dangerous experience.
  • Tape on all sides is more than enough, there is very little force when it is all set up nicely.


The Software
  • I used Estlcam for this sticker. There are other vinyl cutting specific software but, Estlcam works well enough. I think the option for over cuts might be in Estlcam but the lead in works to prevent small tags keeping the part in from the blade offset.
  • Open your dxf of choice and make sure the size is as expected. My grid is set at 25.4mm so this sticker will be about 3″.
  • Engrave would be the idea path option for this but I want to use the lead in so I set the tool diameter as small as permitted, 0.1mm.
  • Select the path with either inside or outside tool.
  • Use the “lead in” button to get close to a path overlap. This makes sure the sticker has been completely cut out. I want this as a acid mask so I chose to lead in from the inside of the design.
  • Set the other path.
  • Save the program, chose something small for the depth of cut. For this 0.2mm was used.


Run the Gcode
  • You can either load the .gcode into repetier host or save it to an SD card and run it from the LCD.
  • Secure your vinyl/material to your cutting surface. I  use painters tape on all sides and try to get the material to lay as flat and taught as possible. I use vinyl similar to this,, I prefer medium tack for easy release.
  • Move the gantry/cutter to the home position, and set the drag knife in contact with the material. Lowering it just enough to just engage the mount spring.
  • Start the program.


Making a sticker
  • After the machine is finished you “weed” out the pieces you don’t want. In the pictures I have a positive and a negative. The positive is a typical sticker, the negative is my acid mask.
  • Apply a piece of the transfer tape on the surface, trying to minimize bubbles between layers, not a big deal just best practice. Easiest way is to oversize the transfer tape and use it to tape it to a glass surface.
  • You can do multiple “stickers” at once.
  • trim the transfer tape and the backing at the same time. Bonus points for using a straight edge…


Applying a vinyl sticker
  • Peel the backing paper off.
  • Stick the vinyl and transfer tape to a clean surface.
  • Carefully peel the transfer tape off, pulling at a 90 angle is best practice.
  • Enjoy!


Acid Etching Glass
  • Make sure to clean the glass surface thoroughly.
  • Peel the backing and apply the mask from the center for easier alignment.
  • stick down one side from the center out, then the other side.
  • Peel off the transfer tape and make sure all edges are completely stuck so acid can not get under it.
  • I use this acid,
  • Follow the directions, shake and apply liberally to the surface.
  • Let is sit for about 10 minutes.
  • Wash off with hot water and soap.
  • The etch shows up when the glass is dry.