Hmm from an earlier post in this thread, https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/image2gcode-free-raster-image-laser-engraving-software-modified-for-mpcnc/page/9/#post-41983
That should be correct. Are you sure your axes are wired correctly, as in https://www.v1engineering.com/assembly/software/Checks out paying close attention to the away towards, left and right?
It is conventional to use the lower left corner as your zero.
I have seen a few papers arguing the step down thing. It might not be necessary. It has to do with the focal cone. If you carve a tiny slit and then move the laser down the cone hits the edges of the slit and lessens the power. I have no idea if it holds any validity. Other than sounding good in theory. Probably best to focus the beam every so…[Read more]
Honestly I was very intimidated by the LCD stuff. In all the arduino stuff I had done I have never touched the LCD any more than just the marlin boot screen logo. I love learning something new and getting over my stupid fear. Admittedly the Ascii is probably as simple as it gets.
I am going for a short hike then work on this some more.
It will take longer but I would maybe bring the roughing a little looser on the allowance tolerance (vertical parallel might be faster) .8-1mm and then increase the heck out of the stepover on the finishing to under 10%. I think i usually did 8% or less.
Most of the lasers seem to have an ideal length as well. If I remember right it is above 50cm, then you can manually focus, and then use something like my focusing script to really dial it in. The further away the better. It gets you a less steep focal cone (deeper cuts), and keeps the smoke further away from damaging your lens. In the video you…[Read more]
Well the MPCNC as a form of therapy, that is a first. If that is the case I will keep making new stuff to keep your brain active, I’ll send the therapy bill bi-monthly!
Thanks for the kind words. The build looks good so far. Welcome to the crew.
You should start with my firmware and edit it from there I change a small list of things to make it work better.
As for it not sticking it just means it didn’t actually flash for some reason.
For some reason the little one just doesn’t have the same detail 😉 . I bet if you used a vbit and a tiny step over you would be able to get a pretty good amount of detail in that. Cool comparison though thanks for showing the pic.
Barry made a tiny beetle that turned out pretty good.
Johnny, I tried to by a bunch of those PID in bulk a few times to get the price down for us, but there is no wholesale/bulk pricing even if I only included them in a full kit. So I had to make it to bring the price down. I did find an installation write up last night that someone posted about it with a bosch router. He used black and white nail…[Read more]
If you bought the kit within the last 8 moths or so it comes with the aluminum coupler and a T8 leadscrew. There are pictures of both on the Z axis assembly page so you can see what the difference is. The aluminum coupler is a metal spring looking widget, and the pineapple coupler is plastic and has an odd shape to it. The T8 leadscrew has far…[Read more]
Quick progress report. PID is good enough for now, still want auto tune though. 0-11k is pretty nice hardly notice the wobble, 11k-18k is super nice! 0-8k is a little rough not sure if the loop is to blame or if the router is just wonky at such a low speed. Of course this is just free spinning and it needs some cutting tests.
There is a nice gif…[Read more]
Did you mess with the gamma settings in the program. I am not sure if they work right. I have always done all my scaling and adjustments in paint or gimp and used the program for burning only. It would make some sort of sense if the letter were vector but I highly doubt those are.
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