mulze32

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  • #108353

    mulze32
    Participant

    Wow! That’s amazing! Clean but with a classic look.

    #107751

    mulze32
    Participant

    I just received everything

    I guess I didn’t really look at the picture. It was way more then I was expecting. Thank you very much. You definitely just made my life way easier.

    JLo

    You got it! It should be everything you need to get ramped up and running.

    #106710

    mulze32
    Participant

    I have a roof rack that uses 8020 Extrusion Bars as crossbars on factory roof rails. I have previously made risers for it out of seaboard using my MPCNC. They were actually my very first project other than some drawings. With that said on roof rails the cross members weren’t even so I couldn’t lay things flat on them if I needed to. To remedy that I finally was able to cut my first aluminum by putting in slots on one side of the member that will allow me to adjust vertically the height of the cross bar. Had to also design a jig to hold the piece correctly. Was a pretty fun project to locate everything.

    Cutter: 1/8″ Single Flute upcut from V1 (worked perfectly)

    Speeds: 1000 mm / min

    DOC: 0.5mm (could have probably have done 1mm)

    #106618

    mulze32
    Participant

    So $40 total. $30 for the laser parts and $10 for shipping? But I will take it! [email protected] let me know how you want your money. Money order, PayPal, or threw Facebook messenger

    Jeremy, I’m sending you an email now!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #106509

    mulze32
    Participant

    Hey Jeremy, I haven’t yet.

    #105292

    mulze32
    Participant

    Looks awesome! I’m a big fan of Skunk Works.

    I’m also giving Lightburn a try, it looks promising, but I can’t get the laser to fire. I’m using the same laser from Banggood with RAMPs and Marlin. Did you have to do anything special to get it working?

    Thanks also for posting the speed and power settings!

    Thanks Shane. Are you able to get the laser to turn on at all with a M106 S5 or M106 S10? If not I found that the TTL cable on my laser had to be alternated. For example it is red and black but for the TTL cable the black is the (+) signal and the red is the (-) signal.

    After that I just set it up normally and it worked. Also the Lightburn tutorials are very informative.

    #100619

    mulze32
    Participant

    Mulze32

    any chance you could post a link or tell us more about the laser?

    Yeah definitely. So I had to go to Mint to find the transaction and then to PayPal. The diode comes from DTR’s laser shop per Leo’s instructions. Specifically it is the 445nm 9mm Diode in Copper Module w/Leads and a three element glass lens for $70. I’ve attached a screenshot of the partial PayPal receipt, I left  my contact info out.

    This is the site I got it from: https://sites.google.com/site/dtrslasershop/home/diodes/9mm-445nm

    Let me know if you need more information.

    #98994

    mulze32
    Participant

    My first try at laser etching anodized aluminum. Made a Skunk Works luggage tag. The famous skunk on one side and my contact info on the other. Used and ended up purchasing Lightburn for $40. Well worth it in my opinion and a good project overall. Looking forward to lasing more things.

     

    Laser is a 3.5W banggood laser. Ran 1000mm/min @ 100% power with 2 passes.

    Attachments:
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    #98421

    mulze32
    Participant

    Ok! So I may have posted too soon.

    #1: The RAMBO board actually has 3 fans, so in pins_RAMBO.h there are 3 pins defined for the 3 fans. Fan 0, which would be for the main 3D printer extruder if the board was used for a 3D printer is assigned to Pin 8. I reassigned that pin to pin 45 which is a PWM signal pin that uses 5V at its max PWM signal.

    #2: Pin #31 aka #define SPINDLE_LASER_ENABLE_PIN 31 is an output and will fire 5V to the board. This is not a ground. For proper wiring you need to have your +5V PWM signal (red wire) go to pin 45 and your GND (black wire) go to the (-) pin located on MX2.

    I reloaded the firmware, sent the M106 S255 and M106 S128 signals respectfully to the pins and got +5V and +2.5V off the pins.

    3. When I tried to test on the laser itself, with only having the 12V on the laser and no TTL signal I would get full blast laser. When I tried to put the signal on and activate the code I would get nothing. I measured the signal coming from the pins onto the TTL cable knowing that it had 5V on it and was reading 0V. This meant that the signal was being pulled to ground. After reading a few posts in the 2.8w $100 laser setup I noticed that it said some of the polarities are switched and sure enough, black wire on the laser was the 5V PWM signal and the red wire was the ground. Swapped them and was able to use the M106 and M107 commands and the focus script to get a few cuts.

    This took me back (2 years ago) to my troubleshooting as a FSE days. I’m not saying I was good at it but I enjoyed it going through the schematics and figuring it out.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by  mulze32.
    #98272

    mulze32
    Participant

    Engagement Ring Box:

    My buddy asked his fiancé to marry him on top of Grays Peak and I had some left over Maple and Walnut to use so I came up with this thing. It was my first two sided milling for the top part and boy was it a pain in the butt. I think I had about 10 scrapped tops that went to the burn pile from  a stupid locating mistake. But I’m very happy with how it came out and I hope they will like it.

    Material: Maple, Walnut, Permanent Magnets, Velvet from a cheap Ring box, foam

    Finish: Satin shellac

    Bits Used:

    • 1/8″ 2-Flute Endmill
    • 1/8″ 2-Flute Ball End Mill
    • 1/8″ 60 Deg V-Bit

    I used the site http://touchterrain.geol.iastate.edu which is the best site for ready to go ready to go STL topographic files for Grays Peak

    Machining Time: 2 total hours for topo / 2 total hours for box

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #98228

    mulze32
    Participant

    I need to watch more Old Guy Coding videos. Planning on doing an inlay soon. Yours looks awesome though!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #98227

    mulze32
    Participant

    As Jocko would say “Get After It”. Post pics of progress for accountability.

    #93263

    mulze32
    Participant

    Heheh, I tried to start on 3D printers with Kickstarter, but with less than stellar results. The Peachy Printer ended up with one of the principles bugging out with the money, The Tiko printer ended up running out of money after they’d done some production and they ended up bankrupt before shipping. It’s really a good thing I started down Ryan’s road…

    This is the one that got me started:

    I actually received mine but apparently a lot of others haven’t. I used that to get started, learned the process, some kid made the Qu-BD 3Up using those parts and aluminum extrusion that I upgraded to and used to print all of my initial MPCNC prints. It then busted, I didn’t want to fix it and now I have a more accurate printer at a price that is less than the one I backed at. Crazy how far technology has come!

    I too backed the Tiko but then backed out because 1. I didn’t have money and 2. it started to become scammy.

    #93206

    mulze32
    Participant

    So I started in the world of 3D Printers with a Kickstarter 3D printer back in 2013 and then used the vitamins to upgrade to a H-bot printer which was loads better. I recently got the Ender 3 Pro from Banggood and for the price that I paid for it ($250 I think) I can’t believe the prints I’m getting from it. The hardest part was leveling the bed. Since then I’ve printed the astronaut phil, the martian from 3D hubs, Benchy, and the aztec guy without issues. The biggest issue that I have seen currently is that I think my cooling is down a bit but other than that I’m awestruck by the quality of print. For anybody, I would say go for a Prusa 1st if you can afford it and Ender 3 Pro second.

    #93099

    mulze32
    Participant

    Looks good Mike!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #92070

    mulze32
    Participant

    @Neil those are awesome! Where did you get the tap handles from?

    #91802

    mulze32
    Participant

    That’s really cool. It definitely gives off a more professional vibe to it.

    Awe come on, the Mad Max on a budget vibe is still cool too, right?

    I bet that plate does give a very easy surface to clamp too though, I agree, nice choice.

     

    Haha yes of course. No ill will given towards the Mad Max but I should have said more industrial look.

    #91742

    mulze32
    Participant

    That’s really cool. It definitely gives off a more professional vibe to it.

    #91691

    mulze32
    Participant

    That’s so cool! Can you post your whole setup? I’d like to see the aluminum extrusion baseplate. Thats super cool.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #91328

    mulze32
    Participant

    Most definitely. And my recommendation is a Ender 3 or CR-10. For $250 all-in you are getting incredible results. Or the MP3DP of course.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #90132

    mulze32
    Participant

    Two sided milling. That’s some advanced stuff! Nicely done!

     

    I agree! How did you do the two side part milling? Lately I have milled holes into my spoil board and then used dowels to locate.

    #89962

    mulze32
    Participant

    Thank you Heath for posting these. I’m going to be printing these soon.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #88478

    mulze32
    Participant

    Pushing these out so I can raise enough money

    You built a machine, that is helping to make you money…let that sink in a little bit.

    It’s fully sunk in… I’ve been 3d printing and doing CNC for the past year as my only job.

    That’s nuts! Congrats dude! How are you selling? Esty? Facebook? I’m sure people are loving the pendants.

    Local targeted Facebook and Instagram, and also local popups and other weekly night markets. That transitioned to people looking for prototype manufacturing. Jewelry is a small part, and currently working on furniture designs to sell flat pack. Started with mpcnc, then on to a custom size Openbuilds Workbee, and getting a CNCRP machine real soon.

    So do you still use the MPCNC or have you moved off to the other ones?

    #87208

    mulze32
    Participant

    Pushing these out so I can raise enough money

    You built a machine, that is helping to make you money…let that sink in a little bit.

    It’s fully sunk in… I’ve been 3d printing and doing CNC for the past year as my only job.

     

    That’s nuts! Congrats dude! How are you selling? Esty? Facebook? I’m sure people are loving the pendants.

    #86334

    mulze32
    Participant

    I used spray paint. A base coat of white and two coats of yellow. The only sanding was some quick sanding with 320 grit Abranet mesh after the first yellow coat. I didn’t seal the edges. It was a rushed paint job, but I shared pics in a Joe FB group and have some orders for more, so I’ll take my time on those and do it right. I’ll seal the edges with glue and properly sand.

    Great thank you very much! That is very useful.

    #86143

    mulze32
    Participant

    Heath, how did you go about painting the MDF and seal the edges on the sign? It all looks great btw.

    #85537

    mulze32
    Participant

    I use a 4″ putty knife from Harbor freight. It gives me plenty of room to put the alligator clip on. You can probably find them at dollar store also.

    I have to admit I haven’t looked deep enough into it yet in terms of how they are wired up. I assume the cutter contacting the metal closes the circuit to the end stop. So one wire from the board goes to the metal plate, the other wire has an alligator clip that you clip to the cutter? Is it that ‘simple’?

    It’s that simple. You are just creating a a NO switch. The Putty knife though is a great idea. Will be using that.

    #83849

    mulze32
    Participant

    I really like that river art and the box! Great job on all of them!

    #82716

    mulze32
    Participant

    What was the total cut time for this?

    I wish I could tell you. Pieces with a lot of deep pocketing like the top and the drawers took the most at ~1.5 hours each. But with all of the re-cuts and redesign I have no idea how long the actual cut time was. Let’s just say that I’m glad I used cheap oak boards from home depot because as many extras were required!

    Ha yeah that’s something I have been tracking lately. Also another question, what did you do for a finish for it?

    #82284

    mulze32
    Participant

    Wow! That looks awesome! Very nice job and I’m sure the recipient loved it.

    What was the total cut time for this?

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 145 total)