I would like to try something like trochoidal cuts to widen the kerf and then step down, but I haven’t bothered to make a mount for my tiny laser on the low rider yet.
I just saw SOGC’s PCB video and I loved that he just tossed on a laser and engraved a pattern on his spoil board. I want it to be that easy for me.
Not to muddle the conversation, but I’ve been messing with TMC2130 drivers using the SPI interface and I think our LCD also uses SPI, so that might be another reason to try the ASCII ones.
You could make a dxf part or 3D printed part to make drilling in the right spot easier. I like the idea of drilling on the 660 near the top. I don’t like the idea of drilling on the 611, but I don’t have a better solution.
That is a melzi board. I have one in my wanhao duplicator i3. The wanhao one has different pull-up resistors than the normal melzi board. Mine are 10k (they have 1002 printed on them). The wanhao board also didnt have a bootloader, so I had to reprogram it with an ISP programmer the first time. Hopefully, you’ve got a standard melzi.
You can…[Read more]
Here’s where I think we went wrong. When you’re running at 5krpm, you need to have the output be, something like 50/255. If you’re hitting that perfectly, the error will be zero. The P output will be zero, your D output will be zero, and your I output will be zero. How will you get 50?
Because the output of the control loop isn’t the output to…[Read more]
Tuning PID loops is an art, not a science. So don’t get too frustrated.
First, a little talking about what p, i, d do and don’t do.
P is the natural one. If you’re under your goal by some amount, you push harder. The amount you push is _proportional_ to how far away you are from your goal. If your Part gain is too low, you will give up too…[Read more]
Starting with just the P part will get you going. The larger the error, the more you correct. Can’t get simpler than that.
Don’t average results. Just use the low pass filter code I pasted.
My rule of thumb for choosing a P gain is to pick what error would require the max response. If the desired rpm is X below the measured, what is X where you…[Read more]
My vote is not enough cooling on the cold end. Extruding cools things down, because it takes energy to keep the plastic. When you’re extruding less, the cold end will heat up, and if you don’t get it cool enough, your gears will be against squishy plastic and you won’t get extrusion.
W.r.t. steps/mm, you should calibrate the incoming filament,…[Read more]
What are you using as slicer software? I use the prusa modified slic3r:
Ryan has some settings for the normal slic3r, and they are a very conservative, but good starting point:
Generally, you want the first layer to be slower, and the outside layers to…[Read more]
I don’t know of any tools for that. You won’t only have to adjust the steps/mm, you also have to raise the Z to match the radius.
I have seen Ryan cut a vinyl sticker and used glass etching to etch a pint glass.
I am expecting this to be a fun build to watch. No pressure.
I found this site to be pretty useful for describing what is failing on a print:
3D printing still requires a lot of skill, so don’t be afraid of a few dozen failures. The first layer is 10x more critical than you think.…[Read more]
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