January 16, 2018 at 9:18 pm #51196
If there is a reprap one in there we would be in business I’m sure.
There are genuinely 500 PPs but no RepRap. The community is large enough that I’ll expand my search there tomorrow, probably here.
Doesn’t seem to be a significant change; are the arc moves only used with vector images? I’m building from a raster.
Attachments:January 16, 2018 at 9:22 pm #51198
That looks correct, it should/might work. There should be new plunge commands in there somewhere.January 16, 2018 at 9:30 pm #51201
There should be new plunge commands in there somewhere.
Yup, looks like it. There aren’t many, but my plunge rate is set at 4 mm/s and there are several F240.0s around.
I’ll flash the new firmware tomorrow evening and run Test 5. If things aren’t looking right I’ll switch to 1/16 steps.
Thanks again for your help!January 17, 2018 at 8:23 am #51212
Sweet, once you confirm I can add this to the “trusted” PP list. Thanks for going through all of this and testing. I might still do some tweaking as I don’t like that there is a hard coded speed in there but I am not sure how the speed settings work. Has that cutting parameters window changed to include rapids or is it the same as before?January 20, 2018 at 10:15 pm #51428
It worked! Used test #5 (above) to slice in Vectric Aspire, RAMPS firmware flashed to Marlin 2.0, config file adjusted for my 5/16″ Z axis screw, and:
Poor lighting, but the cut is perfect—no more drift.
Thanks for all your help! I’ll post the rest of the project as it nears completion.
1 user thanked author for this post.January 21, 2018 at 11:01 am #51441
New snag—the x axis stepper socket isn’t responding. I switched the x & y motors (fine) and the x & y stepper drivers (fine), but I only get an idle hum from whatever is plugged into the x axis socket when I send a command. I ran it fine this morning (10 min) to complete a section, set up for a new print, and it no longer moved.
The heat sinks seem very warm, but I don’t handle the board so I can’t compare with normal.January 21, 2018 at 11:11 am #51445
What voltage is it set to? Have you even unplugged a stepper while it was energized?January 21, 2018 at 11:13 am #51447
I don’t know what voltage (bought the kit), but I could measure if I knew which pins to check.
Never unplugged them, never unplugged motors without unplugging mains and USB.January 21, 2018 at 11:41 am #51453
I have never had a board go bad after the fact, only a driver. You are describing a board issue 100%. Is there any sort of debris on the board that could be shorting it, or sitting on anything conductive? You can split the ramps and Arduino to check for anything that looks fishy. This is not a common occurrence, as far as I know the first we have seen here.January 21, 2018 at 12:32 pm #51456
Nothing on the boards, and it sits on wood. I checked the sockets as best I could, and flashed back to the previous firmware just to make sure.
So, I tracked down the pin assignments in the firmware and flipped the X and E0 pins, and it works! Is it really that simple? I worry I’m overlooking something in my ignorance.January 21, 2018 at 12:37 pm #51458
Nope should work, E1 might be a bit more safe but just don’t enable the Extruder and there should be no issue.January 21, 2018 at 12:38 pm #51459
Probably want to get a case or some spacers though, sitting directly on the wood isn’t ideal. Lil moisture and poof.January 21, 2018 at 2:15 pm #51464
Each driver needs to be calibrated to a specific voltage, which is really setting a specific current through the steppers. To test, check the voltage between the little screw on the top of the driver board and the 12V ground. Be careful not to short anything with the probe. Even if everything seems fine, you need to check these at least.
If you’re wiring is serial, and you have “normal” motors, then the setting that is not reliable and strong enough is about 0.7V. you can Google for a great video by pololu on adjusting drv8825 current. Just know that the limit of 0.7V is meant to be conservative and it’s plenty (for series).
In the firmware, you can set all the E0 pins to -1 and it won’t ever do anything to the x pins then.
Awesome work.February 19, 2018 at 6:07 pm #53387
Just an update. I don’t know if you’d want to submit the PP to the trusted list based just on my case, but I completed the last few sections with it.
Still need to mount, level, and paint the pieces and fix the lettering. (A single-flute 1/4″ bit started melting the plastic after I put 10 hours into the panel…)
Here it is from an angle:
In all, a success. Thanks a million for your help.
Also, we’re putting on a STEAM fair this week, so I’ll be showing off the machine (with a pen) at the school. Made a sign today:
Hope this use of the logo is okay. If not, I’ll pull it.
Attachments:February 19, 2018 at 7:25 pm #53396
I freaking love it!!!June 21, 2018 at 1:59 pm #62032
Svein Inge KallevikParticipant
i got a couple question regarding pp for aspire.
should I do something with the firmware when running t8 on my Z?
i use the stock t8 firmware Ryan have linked to here.
What pp should I use is there a final one? Or is it number 5 that works best ?
Works ok I just removed everything with z motion in it . I don’t use z when using the laser.
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