Tagged: z axis
June 6, 2017 at 7:03 am #35225
Please check out this youtube video of the amount of slop in my z-axis.
I’ve done some good looking cuts, but I want to know is this way too much play?
If so, which nuts to tighten? I’m afraid to start tightening things without a game plan for fear of cracking some parts.
I don’t have a 3D printer to make replacements.
Thanks.June 6, 2017 at 8:48 am #35248
That is not right at all, can you measure your rails? There is no way they are the right size. What sized printed parts do you have? Even if I put the smallest rails in the largest parts I don’t think that would happen.June 6, 2017 at 8:49 am #35249
That is not right at all, can you measure your rails? There is no way they are the right size. What sized printed parts do you have? Even if I put the smallest rails in the largest parts I don’t think that would happen.
Maybe measure those bearings as well, something is fishy here.June 6, 2017 at 10:22 am #35251
I measured a US quarter at 26.16mm for calibration. My calipers might be off by .1mm.
I ordered the 23.5mm printed parts kit.
The z-rails measure 23.45mm
The bearings measure right about 22mm.
The bolts that appear to be for tensioning the z-axis spin when turned by hand. I mean, there is very little to no tension on them. (see video).
Attachments:June 6, 2017 at 10:33 am #35255
Did you print the parts yourself?June 6, 2017 at 10:34 am #35256
The rollers are snug, and the z axis clamps fit tight?June 6, 2017 at 10:36 am #35257
The bolts you are spinning in the video are the ones that control the tension for the z axis, top and bottom so you can tighten those a bit. What is throwing me is normally it is a snug fit even without tightening them.June 6, 2017 at 10:52 am #35261
I’ll second Ryan’s ‘snug fit’ comment.
I remember my z-axis barely fitting inside the bearings with the bolts all the way loosened.June 6, 2017 at 11:05 am #35263
Ryan, I bought all the parts from you. the 23.5mm set.
I suppose I can try to tighten those bolts. Maybe my EMT is slightly smaller than normal? Or is it possible the parts printed slightly too big?June 6, 2017 at 12:25 pm #35273
The parts should be good, same printers same gcode as always. the parts should all have a “c” in them to verify they are the right ones. If your corners, locks, feet rollers all fit correctly the parts are good, never actually had bad parts. Something is up with the middle. Is your z axis all good when laying it on a flat surface, no twist as shown in the instructions? Tighten up those bolts and see how it goes.
If not, just take apart the center and put it back together, for whatever reason the second time around fixes most people’s issues.June 7, 2017 at 6:28 am #35347
I think I followed your “get it flat” instructions pretty well.
I tightened up those bolts, upper and lower, and that removed the slop. It seems pretty rigid now. Bearings making good contact.
I tightened the bolts until I could not turn with my fingers, then starting doing 1/8 turns just until the slop disappeared. I didn’t want to hear any cracking noises.
Thanks for your help guys.June 7, 2017 at 7:20 am #35354
Mine was the same way when I first put it together but I tightened those bolts until the bearings all made good contact with the conduit. Now its super rigid but has smooth vertical movement. Make sure and get the top ones and bottom ones. If you are using a modern PLA it shouldn’t crack. The stuff I’ve been using (Hatchbox, eSun PLA+) has a flex similar to ABS. In fact if you really torque it they turn white and stretch like ABS instead of cracking like old types of PLA (which just snaps). I cranked down the leg clamps and such pretty good without any cracking at all.June 7, 2017 at 8:18 am #35361
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