October 23, 2017 at 4:51 pm #46537
Spitfire look great, in how many section is the fuselage? Where did you down loaded the file? Moe
Thanks Moe. The fuselage is 6 sections. You can see them clearly in the photo. They are just stacked together in the photo. I have all the pieces printed now they just need to be glued together. I need to buy all the other misc. pieces as well. The file for the Spitfire came with the software and files for the Prusa i3 MK2S. The plane comes from 3dprintlab.com. They have a nice selection of printable RC planes. You just buy and download the STL files and print away.October 24, 2017 at 4:21 pm #46618
Thanks Johnny for your reply, I’m a nutty RC Builder ( as per wife ) building all type of Planes, Jets, Quads, Helicopters, but now have to get me one off those 3D Printer to build a series of Plastic RC Models. Just finish building a MPCNC kit and so far have just did some pictures plotting, did plot a F 15 Jet bottom plate that came out very good. Now planning to add a drag knife or Needle cutter to cut it in foam board. Not quit there yet, want to modify the four corners assembly so to be able to change CNC size in seconds. After it all done and working I will show the setup in this Forum. After that done I will look at RC 3D Printing. MoeNovember 17, 2017 at 9:10 pm #48022
It’s finally dirty! Got the CNC moved over to the shop and did a couple test cuts in some foam. Might try to go back at some point this weekend to cut some wood. Need to setup some gcode before I go. Also need to start planning how to mount the electronics. Think I am going to need some wire to extend the motors and possibly the LCD. Just need to figure out how best to do it for my setup. Ready to make some stuff. Now just have to come up with the stuff to make.
Attachments:November 18, 2017 at 4:16 am #48027
That looks great. The bottom of your pockets are nice and smooth, that’s a good sign things are square and stable. Time for some coasters!
1 user thanked author for this post.November 18, 2017 at 12:51 pm #48034
Looks great! Don’t extend the LCD too far, issues usually start when the ribbon cables get longer than 2′.November 19, 2017 at 2:17 pm #48089
Looks great! Don’t extend the LCD too far, issues usually start when the ribbon cables get longer than 2′.
Yeah I remember people having problems with that. I will need to extend the steppers anyway. Plan to order your LCD extension and some wire for the steppers. Then Ill figure out the best way to go about it from there. Will keep the LCD extensions under 2′ for sure.November 23, 2017 at 6:58 pm #48379
Got some quality time in on the CNC Wednesday night and today after Thanksgiving lunch. I have to say I am pretty impressed with this machine. I gave a quick try at a tool change but I need to read up on it more. I know there is a code missing in Estlcam or something. It shows a tool change but the program doesnt stop to let you change the tool. I know its something I am doing wrong and thats OK. When I get a minute I will look more into it.
I played with the carve function and my 1/4″ 60* V bit. I will say the DW660 is a beast for its size. I made a small sign for my folks. Started in foam to test it out and then carved it into a pine 2×4. I’ll take a picture of the finished product next time I am over there. But the machine ran at 15mm/sec and carved nearly .250″ deep. Didn’t miss a beat. Speed control set at 60-75%.
In the mean time I ran just the R in a scrap pine 2×4 with the 1/8″ flat single flute. Cut it as a pocket, peel, .250″ doc at 15mm/sec. Again absolutley no problem at all. Like butter. I apparently forgot to get a picture of this too.
Finally I decided to make a simple little sign of the Colt Firearms logo. Cut into a scrap 1×6 that my step Dad had ripped down. The logo is about 6″ long. Cut with the 1/8″ flat single flute, .125″ doc, 15mm/sec, peel. Also added a .020″ finish pass but it didn’t need it. Speed control at 50-60%. It did a great job. Bottom of the pocket is flat and smooth.
Next chance I get I will be trying some hardwood. Very curious to see how it does with Walnut since it is used for an inlay pocket in the cutting boards we make. I really want to get this figured out to get the CNC to help make some of our pockets or inlays or both to cut down on time.
Big thanks to Ryan for an awesome machine and to the community for all the knowledge. I used the search function a few times today.
Attachments:November 23, 2017 at 9:38 pm #48385
Johnny if everyone would do some test cuts in foam, then some pine. These forums would be full of people as excited as we are about it. I appreciate the pictures and the compliments! So many slap it together and ask why they keep breaking bits in aluminum….
Reading the posts like yours full of success really make my job awesome. I used my LowRider yesterday (while sick as a dog) and I still get the same feeling as you. I cut some foam to verify, then ripped through some StarBoard.
High five, for fun times at the machines!December 2, 2017 at 7:30 pm #48923
Decided to get my first little from scratch project started on the machine. We need a replacement fishing rod holder at the property. The store bought one is OK, but you can’t really use all the rod spots. If you are able to get the poles in you have to take two out to get the one you want. So borrowing an idea from one of the fellow board members here I decided to draw up my own. Plan to head over to the shop tomorrow and get one cut out. Each segment should hold 6 rods easily and spaced far enough apart that they aren’t cluttered. They will be mounted vertically. Here is a snap shot of the bottom and top pieces. Bottom will have another board screwed to the bottom to hold it to the wall. The top will likely get screwed in 3 places between the hooks. Plan is to make 3 sections to hold 18 rods total. Incase we need the space.
Attachments:December 3, 2017 at 10:27 am #48968
There was another fishing rod holder in the forums a year or so ago. Was that yours too?December 3, 2017 at 2:25 pm #48991
No this is my first. I am using his idea though. I think it was David, but cant remember. He hung his from the ceiling in his garage. Mine are going verticle on the wall.
I did get a set cut out. And I have learned that the MPCNC does not like to cut at full bit width. I wanted to use my 1/4″ flat end I had to try it out, its a 2 flute and it was not happy but it worked. I will be trying something else on the next set. I also have a 1/4″ single flute on the way I want to try. But here is the first set. Need to rip a piece to go under the bottom piece to mount to the wall. The top piece I think I am going to just screw it directly to the wall as is. They still need to be wiped down, stained, and clear coated before they go up though. For another day.
I also snapped a picture of that sign I made on Thaksgiving. I used a piece of scrap treated pine 2×4 and spray pained it black. The paint soaked in to the grain and created a cool effect when sanding it back off. We decided to run with it and will mount it up like that.
Attachments:December 3, 2017 at 3:27 pm #49006
Here is how I have been slotting with mine. These settings are for plastic but..
See how I do half depth cuts and slowly, then for the finishing pass it is full depth and faster cleaning up about .5mm. This makes the chips clear better, and the surface finish is pretty dang good. I have been doing a lot of cutting recently and need to update the tutorials I think. This is slightly harder to understand but much easier to implement once you understand roughing and finishing. Previously I had it two tool settings for the lcd end cap tutorial.
Attachments:December 3, 2017 at 3:29 pm #49009December 4, 2017 at 7:00 am #49072
Thanks for the settings Ryan. I will give those a go and see how she does. I certainly learned a bit this last go round. I am sure that will be the case for some time to come.December 4, 2017 at 8:51 am #49073
I am sure that will be the case for some time to come.
Yup, every time I learn something. I just got those settings and then changed them again. Roughing is now up to 10mm/s on that same tool and material. Each time the cuts are faster and the product is nicer.
It is a little odd my last job was quoted at 56min in estlcam but it only took 32min. That is a first!December 4, 2017 at 8:53 am #49074December 4, 2017 at 10:05 am #49079
No this is my first. I am using his idea though. I think it was David, but cant remember. He hung his from the ceiling in his garage. Mine are going verticle on the wall. I did get a set cut out. And I have learned that the MPCNC does not like to cut at full bit width. I wanted to use my 1/4″ flat end I had to try it out, its a 2 flute and it was not happy but it worked. I will be trying something else on the next set. I also have a 1/4″ single flute on the way I want to try. But here is the first set. Need to rip a piece to go under the bottom piece to mount to the wall. The top piece I think I am going to just screw it directly to the wall as is. They still need to be wiped down, stained, and clear coated before they go up though. For another day.
Yup. Looks familiar 🙂February 14, 2018 at 9:12 pm #53140
So the holidays and life got a little in the way of any progress. This also gave me time to doubt my rod holder top mount. I have redesigned it to something simpler and stronger. Let me know what you guys think. It doesn’t look fancy by any means but I think it will get the job done with less chance of any rods falling out on accident. The holes in the top mount are now the same size as those on the base to hold the butt of the rods in place. And they are centered over each other. My thought here is this will cause the rods to want to fall away from the wall and in turn keep them seated in the holder. I’m sure I have over thought this to death for something that is so simple. Lol. Oh well. Its ultimately just a rod holder that will be mounted in a barn anyway.
Attachments:February 15, 2018 at 10:54 am #53157
HAHAHA, welcome to my world. Make something, second guess every decision made during the process.
Both are really similar, the new one is much more sturdy. How does it look full of Rods?February 15, 2018 at 12:55 pm #53163
I don’t know yet. Will try to get one cut this weekend to see how it looks. Will use the left over pine I have before I commit to the design in the expensive oak I have decided to use.
I also hope to potentially add a z touch plate to the machine. Just need to get some wire and plug to connect it to the appropriate place on the mini rambo board. I need to look up again where the pin is located so I don’t get that wrong.February 15, 2018 at 2:40 pm #53170
Yeah it would be awesome if we could turn off the Positive pin….I double check anytime I go near the endstop pins. I am not sure if they cause the same sort of problems as they did on the Ramps or if the UltiMachine team was able to protect those pins as well.
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