Y Plate Sag

This topic contains 11 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  Barry 2 weeks, 5 days ago.

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  • #115746

    Greg
    Participant

    Trying to track down that last bit of Z accuracy so I can cut rabbets..  turns out the biggest source of error I have right now is sag on the Y plate on the side all the electronics hang off.  It’s sagged almost 2mm compared to the other side throwing off my Z height.  I’m able to compensate with a 2mm shim but wondering if anyone managed to solve this better?

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    #115767

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Well it looks like we have the main solve for the next revision. This is not the first time I have seen this. What all do you have on there?

    Unload it as much as possible, did your MDF bend, or did the plastic parts warp (pla)? Maybe your bolts are just loose?

    My original is still good, I have the vac hose hanging down about 3 feet, 12v6a power brick, Rambo and lcd. PLA parts.

    #115768

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That did give me an idea, I will need to sketch it out.

    #115771

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    We need a high rider to follow the low rider with it’s electronics. We can just PR Marlin to add a mirrored board and call it DUAL_ALL_MOTOR. Or we could use Jamie’s double decker build.

    #115777

    Greg
    Participant

    I’m pretty sure it’s the ‘ears’ on the MDF bending with the weight.. even if I just push with my fingers they flex.  I will double check the bolts and PLA.

    I have the power brick, a raspberry pi, rambo mini, screen, shutoff switch and electrical outlet mounted on 1/4″ hardboard attached to the Y plate. The hose and power cable hang down off that side and I do most of my cutting on that side so there is usually the weight of the router as well.

    High rider!  Or maybe an Ultra low rider.. have it crawl along a track under the table

    #116022

    andrew mitchell
    Participant

    im looking at a double decker are there any plans for this jamies one thanks

    #116023

    andrew mitchell
    Participant

    it looks like the best plates would be steel or aluminium, but if you have to use wood plywood is stronger than MDF and is a better choice

     

    #116028

    Jamie
    Participant

    I am pretty sure Jeff was kidding — nobody has made a double-decker for LR2 that I am aware of.  I have some half-baked STL files for the double-decker MPCNC here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3709811

    In particular I have hybrid rollers for 25.4 mm gantry and Z rails that fit with 23.5 mm side and leg rails, and I have corner pieces that allow the legs to extend vertically through the corners.  I think the rest are all standard pieces for the double-decker MPCNC (mixture of 25.4 and 23.5) but I’d be happy to share other pieces if it turns out I missed something.

    #116068

    frosty
    Participant

    I am pretty sure Jeff was kidding — nobody has made a double-decker for LR2 that I am aware of.

    It isn’t double-decker in the same way yours is (with dual carriages and drive belts), but they did double up the rails to prevent Z rail deflection (at least that’s what it looks like).

    • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by  frosty.
    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #116079

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I did not know that! Interesting.

    #116082

    Greg
    Participant

    Wow that’s a lot of extra weight but certainly rigid.  According to sagulator, plywood is indeed way stiffer than MDF.  Maybe just recutting out of 1/2″ baltic birch would help.

     

    #116161

    Barry
    Participant

    I’ve never seen that lowrider before!

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