Where can I buy the printed parts for the mpcnc?

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Advice – MPCNC Where can I buy the printed parts for the mpcnc?

This topic contains 12 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  Mike Atencio 1 month ago.

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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  • #97631

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    I have an Anet A8 and the prints are coming out like shredded wheat instead of solid. I guess I’ll have to buy the printed parts. Does anyone have a line on those? Thanks

    #97632

    Jamie
    Participant

    Mostly Printed CNC

    Double check your tube size

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #97659

    Tim Ross
    Participant

    Ryan sells them in the store: https://shop.v1engineering.com/  I’m going to build another one as soon as I get the first one figured out! Good luck. /Tim

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #97668

    Mike Pensinger
    Participant

    Had the same problem and figured out that it was a slicer setting.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #97678

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    I couldn’t find them using my phone  but now I can.  Odd.

    It sounds like I’m better off buying printed parts from Ryan than printing my own.  Can I get it in red or blue color with grey?

    What do you mean by figuring it out? Is it really hard to build? I’m trying to figure out what bundle I should buy. I’m a newbie and did understand which kit I should get.

    Hould I get the Rambo board and end stops or not? Thanks

    #97698

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Can I get it in red or blue color with grey?

    Sorry I only offer the colors as shown.

    Hould I get the Rambo board and end stops or not? Thanks

    I answered your other post.

    What do you mean by figuring it out?

    Go and physically measure the rails available to you locally before you buy anything. I offer three size sets of printed parts and thy only vary by 1.9mm total so accuracy is key in your measurements. Have a look at the parts page for a video where he bought the wrong size tubes.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #97701

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    23.5 EMT is what I bought. The parts I’ve been trying to print are the same 23.5.

    I think I figured out my 3D printer problems. Maybe. It’s literally been 5 days of rewiring this thing and rebuilding it. The walls on the parts I printed earlier (yesterday) seem kind of flimsy. I think I’m going to reprint those, again – fifth time! If today’s prints fail, I’ll be getting the 23.5mm parts from you. That is the correct size for 3/4″ EMT, correct?

     

    #97703

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    I’ve been converting the STL files to GCODE in Slic3r. What is a better program to convert the files than slic3r? or what did you change in slic3r to make it work better? My prints come out real flimsy feeling too, along with the shredded wheat problem.

    Thanks

    #97705

    Mike Atencio
    Participant
    1. No problem
    2. I saw that you answered the question.
    3. 3/4″ EMT (I’m an electrician) 23.5mm is the correct parts kit?
    #97710

    kd2018
    Participant

    It sound like you need to spend some more time learning your 3d printer before printing the mpcnc. There are hundreds of settings in any slicer software, I would sit down with a cup or two of coffee and just run through each setting and briefly study what it does. Slic3r is a good one, I’ve been using Cura. There are others.

    Then learn how to calibrate your printer/slicer. You’ll want to make sure your dimensionally accurate in x, y, and don’t forget about z. Make sure things print square in each plane. Make sure you’re extruding plastic correctly.  https://www.google.com/amp/s/mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/amp/

    Go to thingiverse and search for calibration models. Print some and see how you do. Print some temperature calibration tests to learn what temperatures works best for your filament. Print some “Benchy”s or something to get the hang of using it.

    For the MPCNC Ryan specifies the infill percentage for each part in the parts list. “Rectilinear” or “Lines” infill pattern (same thing just different names in different slicers). Then 2 or 3 walls and top and bottom. Slower print speeds around 30 or 40 if I remember correctly. 0.3mm layer height (larger layer height than usual but should be stronger). I aim for 120-125% nozzle diameter for my line width, so for a standard 0.4mm nozzle I print at 0.48mm line width.

    • This reply was modified 1 month ago by  kd2018.
    #97712

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    I’ve been using it for over a year. It caught fire and I’ve been repairingand rewiring it. Some of my prints like dingy come out fine, but when I do the mpcnc parts, I converted them into gcode using slicer and everything went to Hell. Plus I’m using a different filament.

    #97713

    Jamie
    Participant

    If you have more than one problem or suspicion of problems it will greatly compound difficulty in troubleshooting. If you buy the parts you won’t have a nagging question six months from now, wondering if there was some subtle issue with your printed parts causing whatever problem you’re having that day.

    If you’re completely comfortable with your printed parts (yours or Ryan’s) then you can focus on the electronics and other mechanicals.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #97723

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    I think that’s where I’m at. So many minor changes do create issues and a lot more stress than I need right now.

    I was just laid off for 4 months.  Money is my problem right now. I was trying to save a little until I got the mpcnc up and running.  That’s probably not going to happen anytime soon now.

    Trump’s “tax break ” for the middle class just cost me a couple of thousand dollars even though I claimed zero. I’ve always gotten a  refund, even if  a hundred dollars. Owing?  Grrrrr.

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