August 27, 2019 at 10:37 am #111041
I’ve had the parts printed for a year or so, even got a lead screw, but then it all just sat in my basement. Then I got a wild hair, an Amazon GC, and voila! I have a Ramps 1.4 board w/LCD screen and endstops, picked up some conduit and rounded out my collection of nuts and bolts, and I have a GT2 belt and pully set coming in the mail today with more hardware coming tomorrow…
Of course, I see that there are now “Burly” center pieces to be printed! Well alright! I’m on it!
28 hours later, I have two Burly XY pieces! Looking good! But… When I sliced them, I didn’t change the infill. So they’re nice, light 20% infill pieces… Oy… I think I’ll reprint the Z Axis pieces next, with the correct infill.
Need to get wiring supplies, X and Y steppers, and pull the trigger on a spindle (be that a trim router of some sort, or a dedicated spindle).
I’ll get pics up as I get useful assemblies built. Plan is for a 34″x34″ overall footprint with about a 5″ Z build height.
1 user thanked author for this post.August 28, 2019 at 5:12 am #111134
Gah! Getting great first layer adhesion, but it’s getting pulled up as it cools and the infill shrinks. Latest roller mount print has a nasty convex face. Motor mounting surface is still flat, so it’s still workable, but annoying as hell. I’m thinking it may be the cubic infill pattern in Cura. It’s great for added strength when the infill is low, but it may be doing odd things at higher infill percentages.August 28, 2019 at 6:42 am #111139
Hrmm… Motor mounting surface may not be perpendicular to the mounting plate surface. I don’t think it would cause major issues, but it can’t be a good thing. Trying again with a different, 2D infill pattern, and a slightly faster print speed (trying to get the layer down before the previous layer cools too much). We’ll see when I get home this evening, although the very points of the bottom corners were beginning to curl during the bottom skin print. I’m hoping that was just due to the overhang of the chamfer designed into the piece (the first layer was still attached to the plate), and not a harbinger of things to come…August 28, 2019 at 6:57 am #111140
What material are you printing with, what temps and are you using a brim?August 28, 2019 at 7:29 am #111144
Going from memory… Generic PLA, 190-195C hotend, 75C bed (had a glass bed on top of the heated bed, but took it off until I get some hairspray). The printer (Qidi Tech X-One) is in the basement, where the baseline temp on the surfaces is usually ~24C, and I’ve propped up some books to block airflow on a couple of the sides to try to keep some warmth in the system.
Just recently switched to overextruding the first layer to get better adhesion (.8mm lines @ 190% extrusion), and it’s helped a lot on that first layer. Was running 10mm/s on the first layer & outer walls and 20mm/sec elsewhere, but bumped it up to 20mm/sec first layer & outer walls, 30mm/sec infill and inner walls along with going from Cura’s cubic infill (3D pattern) to their triangle/octagon infill (2D pattern).August 28, 2019 at 8:22 am #111153
I usually run pla around 60c for the bed. If you can’t get it to stick, blue painters tape works awesome. Stick it down edge to edge, then wipe it down with a little alcohol, mainly to get your fingerprint oils off, and print.
1 user thanked author for this post.August 28, 2019 at 8:44 am #111158
I may have to hit Wally World on the way home and grab some wide painters tape and alcohol. I ransacked the house the other day, and was dumbfounded that we don’t seem to have any!
Oh, and I should note that I print a skirt, but not a brim or raft. Mostly to make sure the extruder is primed and that the bed hasn’t gone completely off level.
Hmmm… Painter’s tape on glass? Dead flat, removable surface + good adhesion – hairspray fumes. That might be a better solution.August 28, 2019 at 5:35 pm #111213
I never used hairspray on glass. It was always either blue tape or purple glue stick. New printer has a magnetic build plate with a buildtack sticker on spring steel.
August 29, 2019 at 6:08 am #111263
- This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by Barry.
i’d try purple glue stick on the spots where it is lifting.
If you print a brim it does the same as a skirt to get the filament going plus it helps it to adhere to the build plate.August 29, 2019 at 7:49 am #111275
Yeah, I’m going to try a brim next. Latest roller mount print turned out better, but there was still enough shrinkage that it warped up the lower points (not critical) and the top of the mount (more critical, as it also pulled the mounting face out of true).
I noticed it also happening on my “not-quite-so-burly” XY print, where that one long arm sort of crumpled up on itself. The top is not terribly off flat, but the bottom was lifted off the plate and the side crumpled up a bit.September 3, 2019 at 10:44 am #111867
Brims helped a lot, but my print bed is… damaged (overly aggressive scraping to remove glue residue). So, I tried the poly glass with brims, and I thought it would work, but the XYZ part curled off the plate at the ends. 🙁
So, we’re at brims + glass + painter’s tape. Absolute charm! Biggest problem I’ve had is either the brim attaching too well to the print (combined with the slight chamfer on the bottom) and peeling off the outermost wall extrusion, or being a bonehead and not re-leveling the printing plate before starting the print (which I saved by using the brim as a guide to live-level the plate). I’m printing the second burly XY piece now, and I’m going to re-slice some smaller bits (Paciente8159’s belt tensioners on Thingiverse) without brims (or at least to make sure I’m not printing brims), and see how just tape on the glass works.September 10, 2019 at 7:56 am #113033
Fargle-blarg! Looks like I’ll have to reprint one XYZ part. I was putting in one of those bearings, and even after pre-threading the nylon, the torque produced trying to snug up the bolt tore apart the layers of the print. I suppose I could super glue the layers back together, then use a clamp on the piece when I go back to try again (and when I go to snug up the other bolts, which are currently just barely engaged with the nylon). I’m just afraid that the integrity is already compromised. Maybe I’ll take another look at the assembly, and see what sorts of stresses are likely to be put on it, and if repaired layer separation would be an issue (or just go with it until it becomes an issue).September 17, 2019 at 10:35 am #114463
Well, I got a new roll of filament and printed one new XYZ-C part. Beautiful print, and it held together just fine as I snugged down the outside bolts/bearings. I have the second one printing now, and I have a list of hardware I need to verify to keep putting things together (may have to print new gantry spacers, as my current ones have lost their lip).
@Ryan, any idea when you may be getting the steppers back in stock? Is your margin on them even high enough to make it worth waiting, or should I just poke around Amazon/eBay for a source?September 19, 2019 at 4:19 pm #114794September 20, 2019 at 4:59 am #114840
Awwww!September 21, 2019 at 6:20 pm #114974
Ok. It’s not the final table, I still need to cut the top down from 48″X48″ to 34″X34″ (well, [email protected] 6″X34″ + 22″X34″). And I need to get some steppers. But I wanted to see how everything fit together…
Attachments:September 21, 2019 at 7:20 pm #114989
New alternative to vacuum table!September 21, 2019 at 8:19 pm #114992
The actual table will be 3/4” MDF on a 2X4 frame… I just need to clear off the table saw, and wrestle that half sheet onto it. The kids old Lego table just happened to be handy and cleared.September 27, 2019 at 11:18 am #115695
Whelp, pulled the trigger on my steppers… STEPPERONLINE Nema 17 45Ncm. I looked at their big brothers at 52Ncm, but these end up at under $10 each, and should be plenty strong enough (64oz/in or so). Now I just need to find that lead screw I know I have. In the basement. Somewhere. Probably in a box. Full of other stuff. *sigh*October 3, 2019 at 6:32 am #116481
Great, now I can’t find my lead screw or my multimeter… Maybe if I just touch the leads from the driver to my tongue, I can estimate the Vref. Or better yet, my dogs tongue… What’s the Vref on a Basenji/Terrier mix? 😉October 3, 2019 at 9:56 am #116504
Depends on whether it’s a ‘yip’ or ‘yipe’.October 4, 2019 at 5:13 pm #116747
All printers are a little different. I have a Rostock Max V2 with an enclosure. I print PLA directly on the glass. I use window cleaner to remove oils. Head temp 215̊ C, bed 60̊ C. I’ve found all PLA’s are not the same, some 5̊ warmer or cooler helps. Speed 40mm/s across the board, except outer perimeter 30mm/s, and first layer 15/mm/s. Large PLA prints I don’t even try to remove, I let the bed cool and it will pop off. Hope this helps.October 7, 2019 at 7:46 am #116979
What sort of shrinkage are you guys seeing in PLA? I just mounted my steppers, and the M3 screws are NOT slipping through the holes (or settling into the counter-sinks). They are cutting their own threads. Also, the motors themselves end up being pushed back a mm or so, as the offset on the motor doesn’t quite fit into the big hole on the mounts. Is this common, or do I need to spend a lot of time (and filament) calibrating my printer?
On a similar note, I know that a lot of the design is clamping, but I get significant gaps between pieces around the conduit that seem excessive (at least, compared to the pictures of other builds I see).
And on a related, but oddly inverted note, my feet pieces don’t tighten at all on the leg conduit. Even with the screws tightened all the way down, the conduit is loose in the feet (and a couple of the leg pieces as well).
And I get eyerolls and sighs about domestic tasks not getting done whenever I even mention the printer… 😛October 7, 2019 at 12:51 pm #117018
There is typically very little shrinkage in PLA and a well calibrated printer should do a heck of a lot better than you are describing. Do you think you’re running into a bit of elephants foot or maybe over-extruding?The 3mm screws should just slide in, no real play and often tight enough that you have to push on the screws for them to go in, but you shouldn’t need to screw them in. The feet should be snug but should cinch up without too much torque on the screws. Time to print a calibration, pick one that’s going to be large enough to measure small errors and small enough to use less than a kg of filament. 🙂 (I kind of like the ones that print a 100mm X arm, a 100mm Y arm and a 50-100mm Z tower)October 8, 2019 at 6:02 am #117090
I turned down my bed temp a bit, slowed my feed rate, and re-leveled my plate. A small calibration caltrop (OK, it’s actually a vector, but a caltrop is more fun and alliterative) shows elephant foot on the first layer and something seriously went wrong at the end of the print (looked like the hot end got jammed back through the Z-tower; going to have to look into that some more this evening). Also need to find either my micrometer (went MIA a year or two ago) or my steel rule to verify the measurements. Otherwise, it looks very regular and square. *sigh*October 9, 2019 at 7:25 am #117266
Groovy… The nickel is supposed to just fit in/through the hole, and my printer runs a closed firmware…
Edit: Ha! Found the M-codes to update the firmware! I can tweak the steps/mm (or is it mm/step?), and hopefully dial it in to perfect prints!
- This reply was modified 1 week, 3 days ago by K Cummins.
- This reply was modified 1 week, 3 days ago by K Cummins.
Attachments:October 11, 2019 at 7:18 am #117512
Looks like I was printing at about 99.5% size… I’ll set the actual mm/step tonight, and see if I can’t get a dimensionally accurate print.October 13, 2019 at 11:10 am #117738
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.