Tilting Table Build

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider Tilting Table Build

This topic contains 26 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by  Jason Allen 1 year, 1 month ago.

Viewing 27 posts - 1 through 27 (of 27 total)
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  • #54494

    Greg Sherwin
    Participant

    Going to start this post just to get some pics out there for anyone thinking about a tilting table.  Still have a few things to finish up on it then I will do a really in depth video about the table and all the other tweaks I’ve made to the Lowrider…

    So I have a table built from 2 1/2″ metal studs skinned with 1/4″ masonite hardboard.  This mounts to a tilting stand with support legs.  Need to add a locking mechanism to the rolling portion and leveling feet to the legs then the table is complete.

    This let’s me a have a table capable of 4×8 sheet capacity but when stored only takes up 2′ of floor space.

    5 users thanked author for this post.
    #54501

    Josh G
    Participant

    Nice! Looking forward to the video of the build. Was thinking of anchoring a tilting table to the wall but might look into this. Was the choice of metal studs purely for weight or some other reason?

    #54515

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Holy cow, I can not believe the LowRider stays attached, I would think you would have to take it off.

    #54518

    Greg Sherwin
    Participant

    I have a track on the top side that the wheels ride in that keeps it from slipping down and then there’s the wheels on the back.  I have a little prop that holds the 611 plate up from resting on the side.

    #54519

    Greg Sherwin
    Participant

    Chose metal studs because they are light, cheap, very straight, and won’t warp over time.

    #54541

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That is awesome.

    #54542

    David Walling
    Participant

    That’s impressive. Gives me some ideas.

    #54545

    Darrell
    Participant

    That is sweet. Good job man. Metal studs was a great idea.

    #54559

    Anonymous

    What is the benefit of using the metal studs?    I need to build my table yet and am pondering my approach.

    #54564

    Greg Sherwin
    Participant

    Chose metal studs because they are light, cheap, very straight, and won’t warp over time.

    #54565

    Josh G
    Participant

    Chose metal studs because they are light, cheap, very straight, and won’t warp over time.

    Saw another post on here from someone saying they regretted using metal studs (and were going to rebuild their table out of wood) b/c it wasn’t as rigid as they thought it would be. Interested to see how yours holds up to use.

    #54566

    Anonymous

    Chose metal studs because they are light, cheap, very straight, and won’t warp over time.

    Greg – I have seen your YT videos of the LowRider…..  If you don’t mind me asking… how much did you invest on the table top alone and what are the dimensions?   Does it have any twist… that is what I was thinking could be the issue with the steel studs.

     

    Also how did you secure the steel studs to one another?  In the photos I am not seeing any screws.

    #54576

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    @Barry used metal studs and has since replaced them with wood (a paulk style using unistrut for the rails). Not sure what the different design choices there were. I’m sure the devil is in the details.

    IIRC, he was saying +-20mm for even small jobs.

    #54577

    Barry
    Participant

    Weird, my post from lunch didn’t actually post.  My metal stud table flexed all over the place, but looks like you are using more than I did.  I can jump on my new table.  That is a really nifty design though!  Could be really handy for folks without a ton of space.

     

    Ohh, you have the fancy metal stud punch!  I used screws, which probably didn’t help with the rigidity much.

     

    @Jeff, yea, my hardboard top warped with the humidity.

    #54578

    Anonymous

    Barry how is your metal table and Greg’s table different?  I watched both your videos and seen pictures…I noticed on your you had a strip of wood on the top rollers but to me I didn’t see much difference.

    #54580

    Barry
    Participant

    Barry how is your metal table and Greg’s table different? I watched both your videos and seen pictures…I noticed on your you had a strip of wood on the top rollers but to me I didn’t see much difference.

    He’s using a lot more center pieces.  I didn’t use that many, so that’s going to help a lot.  I’m more interested in seeing how long his hardboard skins last.  That’s what really warped the most on my table.  They started buckling in and out between the studs.

    #54581

    Anonymous

    Barry how is your current table built?   sorry for so many questions…. trying to decide on my table design.

    #54582

    Barry
    Participant

    Barry how is your current table built? sorry for so many questions…. trying to decide on my table design.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/KUEzrS9lQuxOg9kB3

     

    There’s a build thread around here somewhere as well.

    #54602

    Josh G
    Participant

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/KUEzrS9lQuxOg9kB3   There’s a build thread around here somewhere as well.

    I built a Paulk workbench for use as a regular workbench and router table, and can vouch that it’s extremely sturdy out of 1/2″ plywood. If I were building for a cnc table, I’d probably opt to build a single 4’x8′ box rather than the default plans for 2 2’x8′ boxes bolted together. The 2 box configuration is just designed for breakdown and transport, and getting them exactly level with each other for a seamless and lasting CNC surface could be an unnecessary challenge if you wouldn’t ever need to break it down.

    #54608

    Barry
    Participant

    The reason I went this way was because of the weight issue.  That and I can’t get 5 foot by 9 foot plywood sheets anywhere.  I didn’t want seams in the torsion boxes.  Realignment shouldn’t be an issue.  I got everything lined up and clamped together, then drilled holes between the boxes and attached T-nuts and bolts.  It’s not perfect, but it’s a lot better than my last table.  Once I put on a spoil board and face it, that will take any minor misalignment out.  I’m also sorta space limited(stop laughing).  I barely got the old table into the shop, had to angle it just right.  There’s no way this table would fit through the door in one piece, not that I could lift it in one piece anyway.  Hopefully this summer I can build an extension to the shop, then the cncs will have their own area.

    #54613

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I’m also sorta space limited(stop laughing).

    Hopefully this summer I can build an extension to the shop, then the cncs will have their own area.

    I’m not laughing, I’m rolling my eyes. 🙂

    #54614

    Barry
    Participant
    I’m also sorta space limited(stop laughing).
    Hopefully this summer I can build an extension to the shop, then the cncs will have their own area.

    I’m not laughing, I’m rolling my eyes. ?

    Okay, maybe it’s more “bat poop free space”…  I did get the basement eves filled in with sheet metal and I expanding foamed behind the beams where the bats have been living.  Hopefully the barn will be bat free this year.  That would be cool.

    #54615

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Okay, maybe it’s more “bat poop free space”…

    That’s something I never think about when watching scenes in the bat cave.

    #54617

    Barry
    Participant
    Okay, maybe it’s more “bat poop free space”…

    That’s something I never think about when watching scenes in the bat cave.

    That’s why Batman uses a lot of carbon fiber on his stuff.  Bat pee is very corrosive.

    #54624

    David Walling
    Participant
    Okay, maybe it’s more “bat poop free space”…

    That’s something I never think about when watching scenes in the bat cave.

    That’s why Batman uses a lot of carbon fiber on his stuff. Bat pee is very corrosive.

    I also thought that’s why everything he has is black. To help hide it.

    #67814

    Andrew
    Participant

    Very nice setup.

    I had been considering building a Maslow CNC because I don’t have the floor space to give up to a 4’x8′ table- But this looks like an excellent way to handle that problem, at least while the machine isn’t in use!

    #67817

    Jason Allen
    Participant

    I must say, your table is a nice design.  I looked strongly at using metal studs vs. the unistrut due to weight and ease of construction such as rivets instead of screws or other fasteners.  My concern was rigidity and flexing.  The metal studs are pretty flexible and twist easily compared to the c-channel and 14 gauge metal of the unistrut.  I’m hopeful your design works as planned.

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