The Carver's MP3DP

This topic contains 242 replies, has 17 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 6 months, 1 week ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 211 through 240 (of 243 total)
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  • #74553

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Hey all, hope you’ve all had great weekends. I thought I’d give the thread a break too so I’ve been keeping this at bay here. hahaha

    I printed a couple Calicats and definitely see a common ailment but after trying to answer it on my own I have come up with nothing. Perhaps one of you has seen this before. There are two x-axis shifts. The lower one isn’t as consistent but the upper one at about the 2cm mark is about dead on on both cats. The Y axis is dead perfect (well you know, to my eyes…..).

    IMG_6132

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    #74556

    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    I’d say it is the same problem again, but on the X axis instead of the extruder this time.

    Check your pulleys.

    #74559

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Can’t be – I’m the one that put that gear on there ; )

    I’ll have a look. Might as well check the Y axis while I’m there too. Thanks Dui!

    #74829

    Bill
    Participant

    If the pulley set screw is a little loose but still on the flat it’ll rock back and forth depending on which direction the slicer has you moving.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #74834

    SQLException
    Participant

    Check the heat and voltage (there is a formula based on steppers and drivers) of your stepper drivers (Polulu, DRV or whatever).

    If voltage is too low (lower then calculated), you’re losing steps. If set correct, they might need proper cooling based on design or you will lose steps (again).

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #84383

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Okay. It’s time to try a new [flat] heated bed. No, I haven’t installed the BL Touch yet – I’ll install it when the new bed goes in. I just haven’t had time and frankly think the uneven bed surface is easier to address with a new bed than the BL Touch and 10mm grid mapping.

    Problem: Amazon.ca doesn’t show me any options for a 220mmX220mm bed with a hole in the middle of one side. Can I drill it myself? Are there particular beds that wont work because of wiring or sizing or anything I need to be aware of?

    #84397

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You’re sayong you don’t have the mounting hole or the whole in the very center, for the thermistor?

    You can drill holes youeself, as long as you don’t hit the traces. Widening holes or countersinking is usually ok, but the traces are trying to go everywhere. Were you searching for mk3? That’s the typical name I’ve seen it called. You don’t want the red pcb one, that one is just a heater and not a build platform.

    #84410

    Kelly D
    Participant

    The photos online don’t really show that middle hole on the left edge. Maybe I’ll wait until Ryan has them back in stock. I’m always more comfortable knowing it all came direct from the pusher.

    #84413

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    the pusher

     

    Agree with Heffe, if you don’t hit a trace you will be fine. Beds have been ordered but I am not convinced they will ship before the holiday.

    #84415

    Kelly D
    Participant

    I don’t know if you got the memo that was circulated but I’m pretty sure it said in there somewhere that you weren’t allowed to take a holiday…..

    #84418

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Pfffft, me no, the whole entire country of China…Might need to get on there schedule.

    Speaking of MRRF demo plans need to made. I will start a thread for some suggestions.

    #92327

    Kelly D
    Participant

    After some advice from a fellow V1’er (thanks Jonathan) I’ve slapped a piece of glass right on top of my oh so frustrating PEI bed and things are looking pretty darn good so far. I need to fine tune the level just a bit but I can handle that.

    Figured it was as good a time as any to print my first Benchy….A1F8FB88-4321-4813-85F3-190ECFD75DCF

    #92366

    Kelly D
    Participant

    And there we have it. A little over squished on the bottom but it held like a champ throughout the print and was free as a bird when it cooled down. Yay! Thanks a ton Jonathan!

    B1F06B84-56DB-4A03-A94D-E24AD61EBF07
    9D11892C-F378-42D2-A801-4E202BD50857

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    BT
    #92661

    Jonathan
    Participant

    Oh your welcome Kelly, that’s a nice looking benchy you printed. That was probably one of the cheapest upgrades you could do to a 3d printer, my favorite part of the glass is that the prints just pop right off when they cool down. And I have only had one piece of glass crack in 2 years of printing.

    #92668

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Cheapest? Heck yeah. It was FREE! I had a piece of glass from one of those photo frames that you slide the little metal caps over four sides to hold everything together. Simple cut and a bit of tape. I’ve been printing like a maniac all weekend. Had I not talked with you I’d have either

    A) Never tried the glass or
    B) Gone to some expensive glass shop asking for some overpriced piece

    #93717

    Jonathan
    Participant

    Have you had a chance to check out the local store yet that sells the 3d printer filament? Also shoot me a text, I have a question for you.

    #93744

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Have you had a chance to check out the local store yet that sells the 3d printer filament? Also shoot me a text, I have a question for you.

    I haven’t been by yet – every time I check their site they’re sold out of what I was looking for. Soon though. Soon. And I’ll leave the wallet in the truck.

    #96028

    Omur Ozden
    Participant

    Hey Hello.
    You can give me the chassis dimensions.
    of all parts in cm or mm.

    #96029

    Kelly D
    Participant

    I sure could, what do you mean by chassis?

    #96030

    Omur Ozden
    Participant

    I want all the dimensions of dxf files. Link for dxf files: https: //yadi.sk/d/p52f72SqUAc6lA

    #96040

    Kelly D
    Participant

    I can access the DXF files through V1 engineering. Not a big fan of clicking random links and I’d advise anyone reading this to do the same.

    No offence meant I assure you. It’s just odd that you can access and apparently use the DXF files but can’t find the dimensions on your own. If you open them using millimeters as your units it’ll open up at the correct size.

    #96048

    Omur Ozden
    Participant

    how do I open it in mm size? Which program do I need to use.

    #96049

    Kelly D
    Participant

    When I open it in Illustrator (Adobe) it opens at actual size. From there I can select a range of objects and get the measurements. I haven’t tried myself but Inkscape may be able to open them and it’s free. It is very similar to Illustrator so should have the ability to show you the measurements. I do have Inkscape on my PC. When I’m sittting in that chair today I’ll open it up quick and check. Hang tight.

    #96089

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You can also use librecad (free) and it is unitless, so when you measure something, it might say “10” and that is in mm.

    #96116

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Inkscape does work. Open the DXF files and select them. Then at the top of the screen – making sure you’ve selected mm in the dropdown menu, you’ll be able to get all the dimensions.DXF-Files

    Attachments:
    #96119

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Double posted.

    Attachments:
    #96151

    Omur Ozden
    Participant

    hi frends

    thank you 🙂 🙂 🙂

    #96366

    Omur Ozden
    Participant

    Şase kalınlıkları kaç mm?

    #96370

    Kelly D
    Participant

    I am using 9mm plywood if I’m not mistaken.

    #99647

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Reflash time!

    Just wanted to enable baby stepping to see if it helps with my first layer routines and change my preheat temps. It seems like the bed and glass combination I have are really prone to expansion/contraction. If the machine gets dialled in and I run non stop my Z is totally consistent but it feels like any time I cold start for a one off print I’m forever screwing with the Z endstop to get things just so. A little baby stepping might do the trick for me.

    I’ve rerun through this thread to remind myself what I did last time around so just wanted to clarify some things.

    I’m sure I grabbed the correct firmware to start with this time and it appears that most everything was already set for the MK8 (thermistor etc). I did have to change the motherboard reference to the MINIRAMBO. I also took note of the BL Touch section for the NEXT flash so I know what sort of data I need for that process.

    I like the “Level Corners” (manual) function on the Ender. Can I do the same in the firmware for 3 point levelling? The Ender does all four corners and then the middle of the bed. I found the section in MESH and think I might be able to fumble my way through it but thought it might be better to ask first before I wreck everything and you all are like “What the hell did you do?!”

    Is this the spot for three point?
    #if EITHER(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)
    //#define PROBE_PT_1_X 15
    //#define PROBE_PT_1_Y 180
    //#define PROBE_PT_2_X 15
    //#define PROBE_PT_2_Y 20
    //#define PROBE_PT_3_X 170
    //#define PROBE_PT_3_Y 20
    #endif

    And lastly, just to be sure, are the speed/acceleration etc as set from the fresh download correct to best of everyone’s knowledge?

    Anything else I might find fun? I saw the…what were they called…..Frivolous game options……

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