The Carver's MP3DP

This topic contains 242 replies, has 17 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 4 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 31 through 60 (of 243 total)
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  • #73339

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Just saw this:

    Screen-Shot-2018-10-25-at-11.59.50-PM

    Does this apply to the aforementioned Extruder 4 pin plug? Just pry the black part off the board?

    #73356

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That white plug coming off the extruder motor does NOT plug into the miniRambo does it?

    Sounds like the hot end thermistor wire, yes you need that.

    Also “Fan 2″

    I use fan two for control of the extruder cooling fan, you don’t have to you can hard wire it to 12V.

    Looks cool!

    #73357

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Does this apply to the aforementioned Extruder 4 pin plug? Just pry the black part off the board?

    If you need to, most plugs fit either way.

    #73360

    Kelly D
    Participant

    That white plug coming off the extruder motor does NOT plug into the miniRambo does it?

    Sounds like the hot end thermistor wire, yes you need that.

    Its this one – the rainbow ribbon  coming off the extruder motor. I (accidentally) snapped the middle clip out of the Molex receptacle on the board but this is the slot the wire appears to need to plug into but the white plug won’t fit into the black socket without some modification of some sort. I tried very carefully to pry the black receptacle off the pins but I’m nervous to pry too hard – don’t want to pull the pins right out of the board! The photo ( IMG_20170503_130652-400×255.jpg ) shows no black around the white connector though. Do they literally just pull off the board?

    image1

    Attachments:
    #73363

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The white connector is a JST-XH connector, and the rambo is molex captive connectors. You can either cut the white end off and crimo on molex, pull the shroud off of the rambo board, or make an extension cable to connect them with close to the right connectors on both ends.

    #73364

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Personally, as long as the cable is long enough, I’d try to remove the shroud on the mini rambo.

    #73365

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Success! For any that find themselves in the same pickle, I just slipped the tip of a small screw driver under one corner of the black bit, then the other corner, then the back and forth and back and forth. Once I got it halfway up the pins it started to slide more free. It worked for me – don’t chase me down if you accidentally pull pins from your board. Nerve wracking for sure……

    Now just the end stop Molex connectors and the power supply wiring and it’s ready! Hopefully this evening.image1-1
    image2

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #73419

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Okay! It’s ready. The next step is to plug things in and hope I don’t smell insulation burning. Sadly I have to be up in six hours for a full day of work so I’ll have to keep my fingers crossed until tomorrow evening. But then it’s go-time!

    If anyone has any checks I should make as soon as things power up let me know. I imagine there will be end stop adjustments to make and perhaps some bed leveling. I’m going to see how long my wife will let it live on the kitchen table before I move it to it’s final destination in my office.

    #73423

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    1) check your temperature sensor are about right (25ishC for room temperature). Make sure the extruder fan works.
    2) Manually move the axes to make sure they are going the right way. The extruder won’t move until it’s hot.
    3) check M119 to see if your endstops are working.
    4) Home each axis one at a time.
    5) If your doing autoleveling, check all that. Otherwise, bed leveling.
    6) Load some filament and start the tuning (PID, esteps, temps, etc.)
    7) wire management
    8) post a bunch of beautiful pics of it to v1!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #73466

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Okay – operational report:

    No sound of fans.

    X-Axis moves proper direction. End stop does not affect stepper (wired Normally Closed – tested with voltmeter on continuity setting). Not sure I understand the function. I assumed when it hit the switch it’d stop any further stepper motion in that direction.

    Y-Axis – Positive moves bed away from front of machine (not sure if this is right or reversed). End stop does not affect stepper (wired Normally Closed – tested with voltmeter on continuity setting).

    Z-Axis – Moves only one direction (down…..positive direction on LCD – that’s backwards, no?). When I click and hold the endstop switch I can move both directions. Dug through this post but it went over my head eventually….

    Z axis only moving in one direction

    LCD Bottom line (where it usually says CNC Ready) says Endstops Z

    Temps on info screen showing 0º (top of icon) and 170º (bottom of icon).

    FR 100%

    #73472

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Temps on info screen showing 0º (top of icon) and 170º (bottom of icon).

    Aha! This means you have the wrong firmware. The MPCNC doesn’t have temperature sensors, so Ryan configured the firmware to always say 170C, which is enough to run the extruder motor. You’ll need to reflash it with the mp3dp software.

    The best way to test endstops is with the M119 command. If you connect pronterface (baud rate 250000), you can type it in the command line in the bottom right. It will say OPEN for not hit and TRIGGERED if it thinks it’s triggered. I’m guessing since your firmware isn’t right, that’s your problem.

    The front of your bed is Y=0. So positive moves the hot end towards the back, so the bed moves to the front. Make sense? So you’re backwards. Another way to think about it is the endstop is a zero, which is the bed moving all the way to the back. Sounds like your Z is also flipped. X moves to the right with positive.

    To switch them, you can flip one of the plugs 180 degrees, which swaps wire 1 with 4 and 2 with 3. If that sounds like a painful night of crimping, you can also find the invert flags in the firmware. Before you load filament, or change the firmware you might also check the extruder direction since it thinks it’s 170C. If you need to invert that, you might as well know now.

    You’re getting close now. But don’t rush these final steps. The software is as complicated if not more than the hardware. It needs just as much attention :).

    #73473

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Temps on info screen showing 0º (top of icon) and 170º (bottom of icon).

    FR 100%

    Also the top is the set point, the bottom is the measurement. When you get the right firmware there will also be one for the bed. FR is feed rate. I don’t know why it gets such probe real estate. I’ve never adjusted the speed on the printer itself like that…

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #73481

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Thank you. Some homework to do. I’ll post results / questions.

    #73482

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Okay. So that didn’t go so well I don’t think. I followed the instructions presented here:

    In combination with the thermistor setting to “11” from the V1 info. Had to install a RAMBO driver to the pc laptop to get it to enable the port in Arduino, uploaded files, restarted MP3DP and I have a blank LCD screen (illuminated but blank).

    Did I just fry everything?

    #73483

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Here’s the configuration.h in a text file……

    Attachments:
    1. Marlin.txt
    #73488

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Did I just fry everything?

    Nope. You just didn’t enable the right LCD. You need to enable the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER in Configuration.h . When you do that, if it complains about an error missing the u8glib.h file, you can install u8glib in the library manager (don’t download the code manually).

    Ryan’s Github has two configurations for the MP3DP, one for RAMPS and MK8, the other for MRambo and Titan Aero. Both of them are based off of the bugfix-2.0.x version of Marlin. I see you have a 1.1.x version, which is not the stable Marlin release either. I would probably start with one of these:

    https://github.com/Allted/Marlin/tree/MP3DP_MRambo_16T_aero
    https://github.com/Allted/Marlin/tree/MP3DP_Ramps_16T_MK

    I would post my Configuration.h, but I have a bunch of other features enabled. I am always trying different stuff out on this printer. 🙂

    #73502

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Okay, I’ll grab both and see if I can figure out which bits are for the MRambo and which are for the MK8 as that’s my configuration. Thanks for the guidance – I really appreciate it.

    #73505

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I would guess the difference between mk8 and the Titan are just the steps per mm for the extruder and the temperature sensor.

    #73506

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Okay – so far so good. The screen is back, the temp reads 24 deg.

    Now the X Axis is only moving to the left on positive move inputs regardless of the X endstop switch.

    Coming back to the info screen “Endstops X” is displayed at the bottom.

    Tried the Y Axis – same. Only moves in the negative direction with positive inputs regardless of endstop switch. Return to the info screen now shows Endstops X Y on the bottom line.

    Tried the Z Axis – Moves up and down but reverse of positive and negative inputs. Interestingly, it won’t move beyond 0.00 – is this a function of the software control?

    Info line on LCD upon returning sill only says Endstops X Y.

    I’m guessing as a start my endstops need to be changed in the Config? And can I flip the steppers in there too or is is as simple as flipping all of the plugs on the board?

    It seemed like the only things I had to switch in the MRambo file from GitHub was the extruder specific things. I did see the spot where the max ends stops were enabled.disabled and they were enebaled inthe origfinal file so I left them. I hope that’s right but of not let me know – I think I understand how to comment them out and (is it called) reflash the board. Here’s the Confg file in case anyone wants to peek at key things you know I may have missed or not.

    Attachments:
    1. Marlin_KD.txt
    #73508

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Interestingly, it won’t move beyond 0.00 – is this a function of the software control?

    It is. The zero will reset when you home (after you get the movement and endstops working).

    If your endstops aren’t connected, they will seem triggered. Check your wiring on X and Y. Flipping the plugs on the steppers will change the direction, or you can change them in firmware. I think it’s something like X_INVERT_DIR or something like that. If you can just rotate the plugs, that’s easy too.

    #73521

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    How’s it going? These are the config parameters for going stepper direction:


    // @section machine

    // Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
    #define INVERT_X_DIR false
    #define INVERT_Y_DIR true
    #define INVERT_Z_DIR false

    // @section extruder

    // For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.
    #define INVERT_E0_DIR false
    #define INVERT_E1_DIR false
    #define INVERT_E2_DIR false
    #define INVERT_E3_DIR false
    #define INVERT_E4_DIR false
    #define INVERT_E5_DIR false

    #73522

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Very kind of you to check in. We were out building lego Weasley cars with our daughters ; )

    I pulled the board and checked for continuity on the backside between the end stop pins on the X and Y and sure enough – no beep. I pulled the terminals out of the Molex connector, heat shrunk on of each pair and plugged them right onto the pins. Beeps were heard.

    While I was at it I flipped all the stepper plugs on the board and we’re now moving in all directions! On to the next steps – which will be a combination of bed leveling and end stop adjustment. Soldiering on!

    #73538

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Working away on this – endstops and bed leveling in tandem. I have something very odd going on though. With the nozzle way down by/on the print bed the right side lead screw seems to flex inwards. If I sight along the side of the machine (plywood parts) the screw is visibly torqued inwards. Any positive move and the right stepper grinds and shudders while the left one just does it’s thing. Pulling the guide rods out from their holes on the stepper mounts eases some of the strain but when pulled, the bottoms of them both shift inwards a good 1/8″.

    If I run the X Axis up to to mid point of the Z travel it runs smooth as silk with the guide rods seated squarely in place.

    Any thoughts? Even a 0.1mm move and the right stepper shudders while the left moves smooth as can be and gets ahead of the one on the right.IMG_6025
    IMG_6026
    IMG_6029

    I did a bit more digging and measured the distance from the guide rod to the lead screw above and below the bearing/stepper mount bit.

    IMG_6030
    IMG_6031

    So naturally I measured the distance between the rod and the leadscrew at the very top – 15.4mm and right down at the bottom by the coupler – 13.1mm

    #73554

    Kelly D
    Participant

    And…….to not delay this bit any longer here…….

    https://youtu.be/QM1bwk9aXqk

    #73555

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Yeah buddy! Hell of a project so far.

     

    As for your issue check this dimension on both rods.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #73558

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Success! Thanks yet again. Bed leveled, end stops set and working. Question – if I were to run the Axis to random spots and power down, when I powered back up would I just select “Auto Home” and it’d run to the end stops and set itself to 0,0,0 for me?

    So the obvious question is…..what’s next? Is it time for Benchy? Care to point me in the right direction so I can start that journey?

    #73565

    Aaron
    Participant

    I would print some flat squares or a 20mm cube, start slow. Benchy is fine, but if you can’t get your print to stick, and confirm you can print for more than 5 layers, it’s a waste of time. Benchy is usually not the first thing I recommend to print, it’s what you should print after you get everything working normally.

     

    Look for a Cali cat (calibration cat), it prints pretty fast and is a simple test for a printer.

    #73574

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    And…….to not delay this bit any longer here…….

    https://youtu.be/QM1bwk9aXqk

    Wow. That looks great. There’s no doubt it’s the Carver’s MP3DP.

    Question – if I were to run the Axis to random spots and power down, when I powered back up would I just select “Auto Home” and it’d run to the end stops and set itself to 0,0,0 for me?

    Yes. That should be the case.

    So the obvious question is…..what’s next? Is it time for Benchy? Care to point me in the right direction so I can start that journey?

    You need a print surface. If you don’t have something on the aluminum, put a single layer of blue tape. I can’t tell if you have pei on there or something.

    Did you add some grease to your leadscrews?

    My next step would be calibrating esteps/mm and temps. Each printer is a little different.

    +1 for the calicat (or calidog :D).

    This guide is a little old, but it was the guide I used when I started. Don’t take is as gospel, but it’s a good overview:

    https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide

    Do you have a slicer you like and all of that?

    #73602

    Kelly D
    Participant

    https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide

    Ugh…..so you thought you were ready to print stuff did ya?

    Hahaha………oh boy………..

    #73603

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    This isn’t your first 3D printer, is it? You got the printed parts somehow…

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