Table and size advice

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Advice – MPCNC Table and size advice

This topic contains 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Barry 2 years, 3 months ago.

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  • #38677

    Benjammann
    Participant

    Hello Everyone,

    Last year I did a MPCNC build, but only got as far as two test cuts in foam. I’m returning to the project, and am looking at a slight rebuild to add the T2 leadscrew. I also see there are some nice Fusion updates that address rapids (one of my major issues).

    So I have a specific first project, a centerboard for a wooden boat that is 4′ long and 12″ wide. I know this is an age old question around here, but I thought maybe there is some new perspective. I’m considering something like a 50″ x 26″ build area, so that I could fit a 4′ long part in one go. I know there is some mention of going with a lowrider for builds this big, but I’ve already got the MPCNC parts and kit complete.

    Are the main table build instructions still the way to go? Is 50″ x 26″ build area too much? Any special considerations like mid supports or Z height?

    Thanks!

    #38682

    Barry
    Participant

    You’ll definitely need span supports for the long side. My mpcnc is around 5′ square and have a support in the middle of all four sides. Your short side probably won’t need it. I’d do two on your long sides. I used these. Drilled holes on the pipes and used quarter inch threaded rod and locknuts. You should be able to use the weld seam as your alignment line for drilling the holes, best to have that facing down anyway, avoids the rollers. You’ll need a straightedge to check for alignment, a 4′ level should be flat and straight enough. The way I mounted mine was to loosen the corners so I could rotate the tube, drill the holes then insert the precut mounts, turn the tubes back and fasten the base to the table. Then you can raise the nuts up to straighten the tube. I’ve not seen mine lift the tubes off the nuts, so I didn’t use anything inside the tubes. I suppose once everything is set you could lift the tubes a bit and inject a little epoxy into the hole to grab the threaded rod, but the weight of everything seems to be enough to keep it down.

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    #38684

    Benjammann
    Participant

    Thanks Barry! Ill get some of the mid supports printed out and see how they work.

    Do you know if people are still using doors as tables? The shape I’m making would lend itself to being on a door. I’m just not sure how to go about implementing a spoil board yet.

    #38691

    Barry
    Participant

    Thanks Barry! Ill get some of the mid supports printed out and see how they work.

    Do you know if people are still using doors as tables? The shape I’m making would lend itself to being on a door. I’m just not sure how to go about implementing a spoil board yet.

    I’ve thought about using a couple doors for my lowrider, I just can’t find any tall enough in my area. You’d need to use a solid core door, or at least skin the top of a hollow core door with some plywood.

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