Steel!

New Home Forum Updates Steel!

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  • This topic has 26 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 1 year ago by Ryan.
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  • #67369
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    https://youtu.be/1CX3qui0-Yo

    Yes. Yes. Yes.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #67370
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I wrote a whole story….friggin thing timed out and dropped it……Long story short, thanks to Ben and Kevin for inspiring me to try this.

    #67377
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I wrote a whole story….friggin thing timed out and dropped it……Long story short, thanks to Ben and Kevin for inspiring me to try this.

    I’m glad that it happens to you too. 😛

    #67378
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    It may just be a camera thing, but it doesn’t look like it stays straight when plunging. You’ve got it at 45 degrees, have you tried like 10? It looks like the middle of the bit is pushing the bit to the outside (since it’s not a drill).

    I also wonder if there is a can trick to make a helical hole where you plunge before starting the carving?

    Those chips look great. Time to pick your favorite this old Tony project. Or make a steel MP3DP. Because, magnets.

    #67396
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I need to double check the Gcode but I don’t think there is any angle to a plunge at a holding tab. Single flute cut much worse, but plunged about the same. I will have to look at some speeds and feeds calcs, and look at some high end endmills to see if there is something different. These are plunge cutting bit though, 0.4mm plunge, maybe even less?

    If that all seems good than yeah some sort of helical pre-drill would allow for much faster cutting. I never wanted to go much deeper as those plunges were nerve wracking. I had no idea the router air would drown out the all important milling sounds, but the plunge was nnnnasty.

    On a side note I have hit up some other endmill company’s, none of them so far want to offer any sort of bulk discounts. Turns out 50 at a time of each type must not be bulk, machines shops must tear through carbide!?! Kyocera directly ordering hundreds at a time offered to sell them to me for more than I sell them for in the shop. I am going to have to do some import testing head to head on the metals. Imports can be bought in any quantity, without begging on the phone. /end rant/

    #67406
    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I need to double check the Gcode but I don’t think there is any angle to a plunge at a holding tab.

    I’m pretty sure there is. I use a pretty small plunge angle most of the time.

    #67407
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Yup, your right. It is such a small plunge it just does a little 45 wiggle to one side and back.Very noticeable in the visualizer. Cool! I need to check straight plunge and a lower plunge for sure. I honestly didn’t notice so I never even changed it. A spiral down would be nice though, they work really well.

    angleplunge

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    #67456
    Bill
    Participant

    Didn’t even need tricoidal. 🙂 Now for 3D relief cutting, maybe one of those Hans Solo in steel designs?

    #67467
    catohagen
    Participant

    It will be that plunge that kills your bit, but that was awesome 🙂 the best approach would be to ‘z ramp’ the whole profile to prevent those

    plunges, but I dont know if that cam software will do that.

     

    #67476
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Thanks it was super exciting.

    That plunge was actually ramped, turns out maybe too much. I can’t wait to try a few things but I will be spending most my day cutting LR2 parts. I will try again soon.

    #67517
    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    Amazing, bravo Ryan!

    I really want to try that, milling steel reliably on such a machine would be a total game changer for me. Maybe I’ll have to build a new one, or maybe I’ll try that with my 4060 CNC router. I guess if it works on the MPCNC it should work as well with any other machine. We were all wrong this entire time, rigidity is for suckers.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #67531
    Simon
    Participant

    Nice! Is that a “stock” MPCNC? What router?

    #67537
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    rigidity is for suckers.

    Hey…I’m improving it slowly. I got my hands on some bigger brand machines that cost a lot more money and they were wet noodles in comparison. Seriously, gave me a ton of confidence in the current iteration and inspired me to get back to progressing.

    I was doing some rough testing today on the machine from the steel video (stock, red and black build) for my next idea. I was getting about 0.05″ (1.27mm) deflection at the endmill with the Z extended 2″ with ~300oz (18lbs) of force. Just a super rough test. I need a proper mount and fixture but I need to know if I am improving things or not with real data. I will make a decent dial mount and scale jig, then decide on a reasonable amount of force, 18 is excessive. I am much more concerned with the initial smaller deflections.

     

    Nice! Is that a “stock” MPCNC? What router?

    Yup, 660. This one.

    #67542
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That’s it….everyone go back and make sure you didn’t hit dislike. Who would dislike that?! Haters. One was from the US and one was from Germany, both on mobile phones and both subscribers.

    Just messing with you, can’t get me down, I just cut steel!!!!

    #67545
    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    Hey…I’m improving it slowly.

    Haha, I didn’t mean that as a critic, actually that was quite the opposite.

    Most people (including myself), thought that rigidity was the key when it comes to hard materials. I even made a lot of mods on my machine just to get it more rigid. Well your machine proved everybody wrong, what matters is feeds and speeds, almost entirely. I bet we could build a CNC out of Legos and be able to mill aluminum, and steel. I wouldn’t have thought of that in a million years before.

    The machine is surprizingly rigid given the materials its been build of. But let’s not kid ourselves, it is closer to noodles than it is from a HAAS milling machine. Good thing we learned form that experience is that it doesn’t really matter, unless maybe if you were to mass produce stuff, in which case rigidity would improve speeds and help lower your costs. But this machine is not for mass production purposes, it is for DIYers and rapid prototyping, and it is perfect for that.

    In my opinion this news needs to be shared as widely as possible, it will definitely catch the interest of many, many DIYers around the globe if they know they could mill any material including steel with such a simple and cost effective setup.

    BTW, don’t get upset about negative ratings, I know a few people who like to put negative ratings to each and every video they see. For no reason whatsoever, just the sweet pleasure of trolling.

    #67546
    catohagen
    Participant

    well, I would say rigidity is still key 🙂 those small cuts + deflection will wear out the mill faster than a more rigid machine.

    BUT thats its possible is amazing for the simplicity and amount of money this setup costs.

    #67569
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Not offensive at all. Promise. I love the discussions here.

    Feeds and speeds are key, but rigidity makes it easier/faster (larger feed and speed range). Still think I have a small but effective design change coming. It just takes a little free time to test it.

    #67836
    Tim W
    Participant

    Stop keeping us (me)in suspense what is it ??? inquiring minds 🙂

    #67839
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Shoot I still haven’t had a chance to CAD it up. This month has blown all previous sales records, trying to keep up and not run out of stuff! I have some help here today so maybe I can get a little further ahead.

    #67991
    Tim W
    Participant

    Glad to here your busy and making money 🙂  When you get it post it up 🙂  need it tested post it up 🙂  Just kidding take your time and when its ready its ready thanks for all you do this has been amazing !!!!!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #68359
    TImmyG
    Participant

    Hey Ryan, I was the guy that implied you were lying on Youtube, I truly apologize about that. Just one of those days where I made an ass out of myself  in a number of places. Lesson learned… No more grumpy commenting…

    Anyways, I did re-view your video and adjusted my 2′ x 2′ 3/4″ Conduit MPCNC using an Amana 2 flute 1/4″ up cut bit I had originally bought for Aluminum and tried to just skim a piece of standard bar stock I had lying around. router Speed was about 3k and feed was super slow (I’ll get an actual speed)

    The plunge wasn’t the real killer because depth was really shallow but holy crap the Chatter on the bit was bad. I wonder if the conduit build of the MPCNC just doesn’t have the rigidity? I’m reviewing the base and seeing if it’s more other things but it really seemed to be shaking the machine, especially towards the middle of the machine.

    I’m gonna try doing the milling in a coroner of the machine, close to one of the corner towers?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #68361
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    No hard feelings I promise.

     

    A 1/4″ bit has four times the surface are on a plunge than an 1/8″, meaning 4 times the load, And even more during a slotting operation depending on depth. Try using the specs I have in the video with an 1/8″. The sweet spot is extremely small. I did many cuts to get it right with some coaching from Kevin. You can easily be going too light, or too heavy. Start with aluminum, get it perfect. Then try steel.

    You can see the day before I put up an aluminum video. Even I have to practice. I cut all kinds of aluminum to dial in what that build likes. Then the steel.

    #68362
    TImmyG
    Participant

    Yeah, I’ll fall back and try a smaller bit. I think I have some lying around or will just order the ones your using.

    I do wonder though if, that tight sweet spot you speak of allows for 3/4″ conduit machines to be able to machine Steel. I will try to work through this and hopefully have an update soon.
    1/8″ 2 Flute Carbide Long
    That’s the bit right?

    #68363
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    No that is for wood and plastic. The other one.

    There is another steel video, conduit machine, larger than mine. Have a look in the gallery for a link.

    Have you milled aluminum yet? Is is going really well? If you haven’t you will 100% be wasting your time with steel. Aluminum is much much easier. If you can’t get that right steel will not be for you.

    #76375
    Winston Chen
    Participant

    Hi Ryan, Congrats! Which steel is it?  Is it stainless steel? I have successful story on cutting aluminum 6061 T6 and I am planning on cutting stainless steel. Just saw this post and thought it would be nice if you can share more.

    #76379
    Barry
    Participant

    Hi Ryan, Congrats! Which steel is it? Is it stainless steel? I have successful story on cutting aluminum 6061 T6 and I am planning on cutting stainless steel. Just saw this post and thought it would be nice if you can share more.

    Looks like box store hot rolled regular steel.  Stainless usually doesn’t stick to magnets.

    #76436
    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Steel is new to us, and takes some really really perfect settings. Stainless is considerably harder. You might not want to set the bar that high, until you get a lot of metal experience under your belt.

    I cut plain cheap steel all the time in the shop, I wrecked every blade I had in the shop trying to cut stainless rails until I had to go out and get an abrasive saw.

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