Starting the journey!! LR2-Australia

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider Starting the journey!! LR2-Australia

This topic contains 41 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  John 5 months ago.

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  • #80245

    John
    Participant

    Hey guys,

    I just thought I’d start a thread which I’ll hopefully keep updating along the way.

    I just ordered all the parts from Ryan and one of my printers started working last night.  It’s gonna be one shexhy lowrider with that rose red PLA.  Trouble is I might be too scared to get it dirty lolrose_red

    I’ve decided I’m getting the plates done in 1/4″ aluminium so hopefully that will work out, if not, I’ll just get them cut from MDF.

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    #80253

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It all begins with that first plate of parts, next thing you know you have a few machines, a coupler revisions and a garage full of wood powder!

    #80257

    John
    Participant

    No shortage of wood powder in my garage now lol.  I’m using a router table atm and that’s what I want to move away from.  This is what I build, and my motivation to move to a full sheet cnc.finished-cab-png

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #80259

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    FUN!

    #80260

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That’s ok my project bucket list for sure. Ryan, you need to figure out a way to do your CAD on one of those.

    #80262

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Center line (pew pew) tangent (bang). I would make shooting noises the whole time….I already might…

    #81268

    John
    Participant

    Progress on the table.

    I’m thinking, sand down the two long edges so they’re smooth, and have the wheels ride on that.  Will 35mm be enough width for the wheel to ride on?

    Secondly I’ll centre the full sheet of 16mm (or closer to one edge) and bolt it down.  To cover the remaining part of the table (minus the 2 x long 90×35), I was thinking of using 18mm MDF to surround the 16mm, leaving a 2mm pocket for the full 16mm MDF workpiece to sit into.

    #81275

    John
    Participant

    Actually I just thought about it and I’ll have to go right to the edges with the 18mm, so the wheels will ride on the 18mm MDF.

    #81431

    John
    Participant

    Table finished. I’ll probably add some MDF ontop of the bottom supports for a shelf, but later…  Everything seems pretty square.

    The MDF is just sitting on there at the moment.  Still waiting for a couple parts before I can start building the LR2.  I’m going to route the MDF down about 5mm and sit it in there.

    Opinions, would you centre this MDF spoilboard, or offset it to one side??

     

    PS.  Scuse the mess, that’s actually clean lol

    #81439

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Looks awesome… What mess?

    #81440

    John
    Participant

    lol this is why I have put up the blue tarp across the back of my shed.  I just hope I never have to move, because then I’d have to deal with all that …. hidden treasure (crap).

    @jeffeb3 if I mount the MDF spoilboard all the way to one side, do you think I may be able to do a tool change from underneath  the open (frame) on the other side?

    #81446

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You wont be able to mount it anywhere but where your lr can reach if you sink the mdf. You could always cut a hole in it for parking and tool changes.

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    #82096

    John
    Participant

    Table ready.  I was going to use 2 x sheets and cut them at 1500 (table width), + 1 at 500 long, so that would’ve made it 1200+1200+500=2900 (table length) so that would mean 2 seams along the X axis.  I decided to go this way, using a full sheet from one corner to the other, and filling in the rest of the 2 gaps.  This way I only have 1 seam in the X direction, but it doesn’t look as nice lol.  Assembly is next, dedicated most of the day tomorrow, not sure how far I’ll get.

    #82230

    John
    Participant

    The moment you realise that now you have no chance in finishing it tonight.  New part printing now.

    #82233

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    No!!!!

    #82234

    John
    Participant

    It gets a little worse lol.  I get the printer going and it’s looking fabulous, when I go back and check half hour later I find it’s printing in the air.  The hotend fan decided to shit itself and thus got a clog.  I’m back printing again now. I keep lots of 3D printer spares so I’ve got about 4 x 40mm fans.

    BTW the only reason the part broke is because I dropped the whole assembly off the table.

    #82236

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Ugggg. Well you got your 1 crappy 2019 day out early. The rest of your year is going to be smooth sailing.

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    #82237

    John
    Participant

    Let’s hope so.

    #83410

    John
    Participant

    So I just wired it all up this morning and fired it up, everything jogs the way it should, Z moves up and down without issues.

    The pics attaches show the difference in gap from one side to the other.  This is on both sides of Z, BUT opposite.  So if I’m standing on the left side of the machine, the right side of the Z tube is higher than the left.  If I’m standing on the right side of the machine, the right side is higher again, meaning the opposite sides are higher.  How can I fix this?  Do I need to fix it?

    That was just a quick observation.  I haven’t even ran Y the full length yet.  Was excited and bloody hot in the shed, so I came in for a well earned cold drink lol.20190112_111504
    20190112_111510

    #83430

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Did you clamp your notch? It should be up and the rail under it.

    notch
    notch2-1

    #83445

    John
    Participant

    OOps, I didn’t even notice.  So you saying that I have that part up side down?

    #83446

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Looks like it.

    #83447

    John
    Participant

    I flipped them over and it’s still the same.  Do I need to re print these since the lip has been destroyed??

    #83450

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nope.

    There are a few threads on this and I need to put some thought into the instructions about this I guess.

    1-Double check that the Z rails are parallel, same distance apart at the bottom as they are on the top.

    2-If you loosen the corner brackets up too much and the XZ mains still won’t sit flat the larger bolts are not tensioned properly / evenly (probably way way too much).

    3-Make sure all four notches are above the end of the  Z rails.

    #83462

    John
    Participant

    Will check all that in the morning.  Thanks

    #83523

    John
    Participant

    I have set (as far as I know) my rates in Estlcam to mm/s.  In the tool list it shows mm/s also.  I set it to 45mm/s (originally 15mm/s) and you can only just watch it move.  I’m guessing it’s travelling at mm/min.  What have I missed?  Even the preview shows it would take 11 minutes to complete but when it’s moving so slow, it takes 5 minutes to do a 2mm pass just one line.

    Edit: Sorry the preview reflects the time actually taken

    Attachments:
    #83540

    John
    Participant

    So I’ve upped the rates to mm/m rates.  I just finished a few tests on 16mm MDF.  I’m using a 6mm compression bit.

    1. 5.5mm per pass, 1200mm/m X Y, 100mm Z  – Successful
    2. 5.5mm per pass,  1500mm/m X Y, 100mm Z – Successful
    3. 8.3mm per pass, 1200mm/m X Y, 100mm Z – Failed, router viad off during a turn, so obviously too much pressure, lost steps

     

    Observations:  One side of the Z axis drops down after power-off.  Only one side.

    My cheap Makita look-alike ($60) seems like it has plenty of grunt.  I know it’s early days yet but so far so good.20190113_102548

    Planning on using a 3.175 or 4mm upcut, as soon as I get a collar adaptor for my router.

    #83601

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Your speeds are entirely too fast and you are not showing your rapids. Depending on the firmware you machine should be limited to 10mm/s Z and you have 15 for the plunge, what is your rapid at, and a 45mm/s federate? You need to look through basics page and the estlcam page your numbers are pretty insane.

    #83608

    John
    Participant

    Hey Ryan,

    I’ll get the rapids tonight for you.

    As far as speeds go, I only set it to 45 because my initial try of 15 It seemed like it wasn’t moving.   The rates are in mm/m although it’s showing mm/s

    See my post above where I show what rates I’ve tried.

    AFAIK I have set everything to mm/s but 5hat doesn’t reflect on the speed the machine is moving.  If I use mm/m rates, the machine travels at those rates if that makes sense.

    So the 15mm/s plunge rate I could only just tell z was moving only by watching the leadscrew coupler move ever so slowly

    #83609

    John
    Participant

    And the firmware was loaded by you, I have not touched it

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