- October 3, 2017 at 9:27 am #45283
< 19:23:01: Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed < 19:23:01: Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
This I got on 61 Deagre I reach 60 and set up to go 70 and then on 61 I got this error.
< 19:06:10: FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 (Github) SOURCE_CODE_URL:https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:3D Printer EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 UUID:cede2a2f-41a2-4748-9b12-c55c62f367ffOctober 3, 2017 at 9:41 am #45288
You sure those are the right thermistor values, both your hotend and bed are using the #13?October 3, 2017 at 9:42 am #45289
I also see your nozzle looks to be tightened into the heatblock, that might cause some issue with clogging down the road. But lets concentrate on the bed for now.October 3, 2017 at 9:47 am #45291
thermistor is for sure the same because they sell me naked bed and I need to arm it myself all cables and temp sensor temperature show ded on spot. But its look like it need to have a little more time to heat its some timer set up? that check if temperature rise.October 3, 2017 at 9:50 am #45292
I just left the computer but if you look in config-adv, I think it is under watchdog.October 5, 2017 at 2:32 pm #45394
Thanks Ryan I found it and I put quite long wait time and I’m getting it to almous 90 but it’s going slow probably I need to put it in some sort of box.October 5, 2017 at 2:37 pm #45396
I use a layer of adhesive cork on the bottoms of my beds but there are some better options out there, maybe a thin layer of rockwool. The actual solution is probably just move to 24V, anything bigger than 300mm need full wall current so you are up there.October 7, 2017 at 9:23 pm #45524
OK I make some test and for now I just need to stick with PLA. until new power supply 24v will come. I just can reach the temperature that I need. Im using also some heated bed insulation cotton that help a lot isolating the heat from bed carriage sometimes when I won to heat up faster bed I put one of this on top until it get temperature. I start printing parts for second printer with PLA and later I will reprint it in ABS but the bed will be smaller 200×300 many this one I can heat to 100C.
Thanks!October 8, 2017 at 7:44 am #45529
You should give PET a try I hope I never have to touch ABS again for printing. Between those two I much prefer PET, and it doesn’t require such a high bed temp.October 8, 2017 at 8:26 am #45531
Thanks for advice I will give it a try.October 8, 2017 at 8:54 am #45532
PETG is nice. But I’ve just ran across maker geeks raptor PLA. And it’s the best stuff I’ve ever used. It’s A high temp pla. and if you bake it at 200f for 10 mins it become pretty strong. It has a printing temp of 245 on the head and 60 on the bed. Its FDA approved and dish washer safe. I just printed my MPCNC out of it and the parts seem super strong. And it seems heaver than the prints I did before out of normal PLA. Might be why it took more filament than what Ryan said it would use.October 8, 2017 at 11:18 am #45566
I just need something that can hold temp and pretty strong when I’m printing some parts for 3d printer or some construction staff. I know that PLA is strong my last printer was full printed in PLA.October 15, 2017 at 12:53 am #45996October 15, 2017 at 5:19 am #46010
My first printer was the wanna duplicator i3, and this morning was awesome:
Might spark something for you.October 15, 2017 at 7:20 am #46017
Nice but power supply brace was more then needed. Problem solvd I order spools for next big project as fast I print all parts I’m selling all my printers to build next two they are more expensive (aluminum extrusion) and I just need to keep my hobby in some limits 🙂
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