- September 14, 2017 at 2:55 am #43823September 20, 2017 at 1:08 am #44251September 20, 2017 at 4:08 am #44254
Nice! Looks great.September 20, 2017 at 2:27 pm #44305September 20, 2017 at 2:59 pm #44311
That is going to be a rugged machine. The first print is going to feel great after doing a complete build.September 20, 2017 at 8:50 pm #44321
Looking back at the pictures closer I realized why everything looked so familiar. Looks like you are building a Prusa i3. As long as the axis are perpendicular and the movements are smooth I think you will get very good quality prints. I have an Original Prusa i3 MK2 and its an impressive machine. No reason you can’t replicate the results. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.September 20, 2017 at 11:03 pm #44324
Im super excited how those parts are designed. all things are fitting so smart together. Just wow :). I will try to hit the best print result I can achieve don’t meter time of print but quality(in reasonable time). For prototyping I will build another printer with bigger nozzle and titan extruder. with totally different style of frame.September 21, 2017 at 11:59 am #44362
all smooth rods cut to lengths also all M10 and M8 cut to length it was little bit tricky because this printer is bigger then original purse bed is 300×300 hight don’t know exactly but around 300:D like always some pics for you guys.
Attachments:September 26, 2017 at 1:44 pm #44769
Small update all motion parts are on place tommorow i will start wire it up and probably start power suply 12v 30A aluminium heated bed 300×300 (this will be tricky becose they send me only plate without led sensor so i need to reuse some parts from my old printer and re solder them in place.) on top of Alu plate will be build surface under filc to isolate wood from heat.
1 user thanked author for this post.September 27, 2017 at 9:48 am #44813September 27, 2017 at 4:52 pm #44857
Few more things to check and i can start printing
Attachments:September 27, 2017 at 5:17 pm #44863
So Close!September 28, 2017 at 10:10 am #44877September 28, 2017 at 10:15 am #44880
You should not have to touch extrusion multiplier unless you have bad filament. I bet first layer height.September 28, 2017 at 10:49 am #44887September 28, 2017 at 11:27 am #44894
Congrats! A print!September 28, 2017 at 7:50 pm #44929
Yeah you were just too high on the first one, the bead just wasn’t squished enough. Maybe a bit too far the other way on the second.September 28, 2017 at 10:20 pm #44940
Thanks guys I’m getting there just need to nail this down. What I seen yesterday that its look like M851 for z is not working when I’m using M29 so probably I need to make change in firmware sensor is just working perfectly I have even stroke on bed but I just need to go lower so I think I will just change probe offset and it should fix problem my settings for now
extrusion width? Manual 0,40 (it was 0,48) probably I need to change it to 0,45 when I lower novelSeptember 29, 2017 at 4:43 am #44956September 29, 2017 at 6:15 am #44968September 29, 2017 at 8:17 am #44991October 1, 2017 at 4:03 am #45118
Update on the printer
– I print some modify spool holder to fit my frame
– And I add screen on the front
As for now I think that’s all until I get my Abs spool then I will modify extruded to get filament sensor and probably I will also make so when printer is finish power will go off when evrything will cool(especially hotels)
Attachments:October 1, 2017 at 4:13 am #45123
You should always turn off the heater at the end of the gcode.
I have a relay board wired up to my octopi that I use to control the lights and power supply to the printer.October 1, 2017 at 4:22 am #45124
All heater is turned off but it shudl cool down before you turn off power supply cause if you turn off power your hot end cooler will also be off. 👍October 1, 2017 at 6:34 am #45131October 1, 2017 at 6:47 am #45132October 3, 2017 at 3:27 am #45265
Some ideas why my heated bed is heating only to 50C if I set up something bigger I will get error on lcd I change I marlin allow heat to 100 but I think is somthing with sensor or pids or Maby I’m missing somthing that I don’t know I’m using rams with separate mosfet.October 3, 2017 at 7:11 am #45272
Did you change the firmware to the correct Thermistor value? Are temps showing matching with the actual bed temp?October 3, 2017 at 8:43 am #45280
Yes terminator values are correct and temp is also showing correct. When I make autotune of pid on my bed I can only do it with 50C, but the value are strange for me. also if I try to make autotune for 100C it will Fail
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 474.62 #define DEFAULT_bedKi 87.79 #define DEFAULT_bedKd 641.50October 3, 2017 at 8:58 am #45282
Pretty sure the bed uses bang bang with no pid tuning.
Can you do 60? What exact error message do you get? Plug it into repetier and see what it says.
Make sure your power supply is switched to your input voltage, 115 or 220. This is a pretty common thing to happen, you get power but not much.
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