August 14, 2016 at 10:01 am #16139
Wondering if someone could point me to something that would show how to connect MPCNC to repetier? Can’t seem to find it.August 14, 2016 at 10:56 am #16140
It should be fairly automatic. plug it in and hit connect. If that doesn’t work you just need to pick the right port under settings.August 14, 2016 at 11:06 am #16141
Going on two hours trying to get it to work. Tried both local and server connections. Ill mess with port more.August 14, 2016 at 11:10 am #16142
I don’t know what that means.
Repetier host, not repetier server. Is that what you are using?August 14, 2016 at 11:17 am #16143
Yes, I meant to say host. Tried using both host and server. Back on host now. Tried every baud rate. Matched baud rate with the one found in device manger in windows.
The host says it’s connected, but when I press a manual control it does not do anything.August 14, 2016 at 11:20 am #16144
this is what I use. buadrate is set in the arduino firmware, if you are using my firmware this is the setting.
Attachments:August 14, 2016 at 12:15 pm #16150
Tried the settings you posted. Still nothing.
Could this have anything to do with running this on Bootcamp Windows 10 on my Mac?
Everything I see indicates that the commands are being sent, just no movement.August 14, 2016 at 12:18 pm #16151
Also, Now I’m getting this error talking about a heater.August 14, 2016 at 12:22 pm #16153
connect the resistorAugust 14, 2016 at 12:30 pm #16154
Ahh. Ok. Added it to the board. Do I need to do the adjust the pots still?
EDIT: It’s Alive!
EDIT: Ohh, so you adjust the pots on the stepper drivers to calibrate the distance moved in Repetier?August 14, 2016 at 1:57 pm #16158
Pots should be fine if you got it from me.August 14, 2016 at 2:01 pm #16160
Nice. Any tips or links to learn about setting zero and extents without end stops?August 14, 2016 at 2:06 pm #16164
Zero is set when you turn or or reset your arduino. Move it by hand to where you want 0,0,0 to be and its done, easy.
I need to put this in the FAQ’s but this is pretty much how it is done on a large cnc. An edge finder is used to set x and Y zero and the we always touched the top with the spindle on for the Z. That is how I do it now but don’t bother with an edge finder because Nothing has every needed to be that precision yet.August 14, 2016 at 2:23 pm #16166
Thanks. We actually tried that where we set the position manually by using the controls in Repetier, then we power down the device and power it back up. When we hit the home button the CNC seeks to a different location from the one we set it to. Also, won’t the chip burn out if we manually move the device by hand since the motors generate current?August 14, 2016 at 2:53 pm #16167
Take out the g28 start command if you are using a slicer, that is what is homing it.
You can move the machine by hand just take it easy, and don’t move it super fast. I have never actually burnt one out this way and I have always done it by hand. I think it must happen when people move it back and forth a lot like when they first set it up or something.August 15, 2016 at 9:15 am #16186
Thanks so much for helping me get moving last night. Video on the way soon.
Got another repetier question. How can I get the origin on the graphic representation to be in the top left? See screenshot to see how my toolpath lands outside of boundary.August 15, 2016 at 9:43 am #16191
Where do you want your actual machine home to be? Then I can help set the proper software home.August 15, 2016 at 9:46 am #16192
In the image above I want home to be at the top left point of the grey grid area, so that it reflects how I have the MPCNC setup.August 15, 2016 at 9:49 am #16193
So you home your machine in the upper left corner? I see you asking about endstops, you will need to change the firmware if you want to attempt this with endstops. As for changing repetiers display, I have never done it. This is just a picture and has no effect on the machine running, Really I wouldn’t worry about it.August 15, 2016 at 9:53 am #16194
At the moment yes, I’m not sure where I got that from. Maybe it was because I did a bunch of Fusion 360 tutorials and they always set zero at top left of part. I think I saw youtube videos of this as well.
Looking at your rendering, I see it would be in the upper right corner? Is there a preferred position for zero?
EDIT: Was just messing around with settings and I got the origin dot to go to the top left by setting the bed front parameter to be equal to the bed depth. Not sure if this will mess anything else up till I can test tonight.August 15, 2016 at 1:09 pm #16202
That is just a picture, It will mess things up if you slice with repetier.
I have only ever used the lower left corner as home with milling and 3D printing (I used the center a few times). Do it whatever way you want though it is an arbitrary point.August 15, 2016 at 1:54 pm #16205
After thinking about it a bit, and looking at some basic CNC intro videos I see why it should really be lower left corner. That’s always zero in Cartesian systems I guess.
I’m not doing any slicing yet. Just working with a pen so far, then a router. Printing will be down the road.August 15, 2016 at 4:36 pm #16208
Still having troubles drawing tonight.
What I’m trying to do is set zero at the bottom left of a piece of paper. I connect in Repetier, use the arrows to move the point of the pen to the bottom left of the paper and touch the surface, then I send the G Code command G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 and also @isathome. Then I raise the Z by 10 so that the ink isn’t soaking into the paper. Then I run the program. It draws in the air. If I do not raise the pen it will draw on the paper.
Also, even though I can’t find any settings that change home position, when it returns it is always slightly in a different position than where it started.August 15, 2016 at 5:01 pm #16211
Try just resetting the ramps stack, not using the manual commands. Start with a ball point pen so you can figure out where your issue really is, and not have to move the pen before you start.
You should also zip your gcode and upload it here so someone can load it and have a look.
Did you try the test file from here, https://www.v1engineering.com/estlcam-basics/?August 15, 2016 at 5:10 pm #16212
Ok, Ill try these suggestions next. The code I am currently using is attached.
The reason I’m so hung up on moving the pen up is because in the future I’m picturing moving XYZ independently and setting zero one at a time when I try to locate stock zero points. Am I correct in thinking this will need to be manual G Code commands, rather than resetting ramps? The only way resetting ramps works is if you are at the exact place in XYZ that you want to be zero.
Attachments:August 15, 2016 at 5:27 pm #16214
For most things you will be cutting it out and never really need a exact x or y home, Or at least I don’t, Not even really a solid z home. I surface all my cuts and never rely on an edge. PCB’s would be different in needing an exact z=0 (touchplate is best for this.
For when you do need an exact x&y=0 you should be using endstops. I think you might really be getting ahead of yourself. Get some plotting going, then mill some foam. After that worry about the advanced stuff. You have much more important things to learn like depth of cut, chip load, bit selection, feeds, speeds, CAD, ect. I don’t include endstops because rarely are home positions needed. The lat video had a bit change and a tool change involved and a firmware reflash to activate the laser, all accomplished with no endstops or anything.
Your gcode is moving faster than your machines firmware maximum, causing most of your issues. You have it at 211mm/s max for a perfect machine is 197. Usual is 10-40. Your z depth is only .152mm might want to go a bit deeper.
Your z speed is 20mm/s, max is 8.7mm/s, usual is 2-5mm/s.
Try the test fileAugust 16, 2016 at 5:07 am #16222
Thanks for the analysis. Admittedly, I am in a bit of a rush to get the centerboard of my sailboat milled in time to go on vacation with it next month. From what you describe, it sounds like I will not need exact positioning. Although I still am very interested in learning how to set zeros, move the gantry, and have it return to zero when I play the job.
Starting to understand. Ordering some end stops today since it sounds like they will help with the precision control. Going to slow down my settings, and also test the supplied file tonight.
Thanks for everything man. You are as wise as you are patient.August 16, 2016 at 8:17 am #16224
The machine will return to zero when you ask it to move at a reasonable speed. Right now I am actually surprised it moves much at all and doesn’t just sit there and grind. Going over the firmware speed limit causes all kinds of weird issues.
I really would not even touch endstops until you have a ton of time under your belt running the machine on your own CAM files.August 16, 2016 at 8:27 am #16226
Cool. Would the RepRap Wiki be the place to learn more about the firmware and it’s limits?August 16, 2016 at 8:50 am #16230
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