Raft required? MPCNC Tool Mount

New Home Forum Milled Printed 3D Printer -MP3DP Advice – MP3DP Raft required? MPCNC Tool Mount

This topic contains 40 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by  Barry 3 weeks, 2 days ago.

Viewing 11 posts - 31 through 41 (of 41 total)
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  • #75967

    Aaryn
    Participant

    Oh I also wanted to mention a trick I have used with good but not perfect success. If your brim peels up like that you can pause the print and tape it down with painters tape to keep it secured to the bed. Don’t use clear tape it will leave a mess on the bed.

    The final part looks nice. Well done.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #75970

    Heath
    Participant

    I prefer glass and hairspray (not any hair spray will do – Aqua Net or something with the same ingredients like Suave Max Hold).

    I agree that overextrusion may be an issue.  I typically use .90 to .95 extrusion rate with PLA.  Also, bed leveling, Z0 distance from the bed, and slicer first layer settings all make a big difference to prints sticking to the bed.  I like to level my bed with everything heated to printing temperature and set Z0 so it’s just barely kissing the glass at all leveling points.  Then in Simplify3D, I use 90% first layer height.  With all of that, I get perfect first layers, print stay stuck, but aren’t too stuck that I have to fight to get them off. If there’s a lot of surface contact with the glass making it difficult to remove, just set the glass in the freezer for a minute and the part is usually free when I take it out.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #75986

    Kelly D
    Participant

    I’ll heat everything up really well and recheck the bed and z axis heights – my “dots” on top of the lead screws look to be right but I bet it doesn’t take much to be off. Then I’ll try another calicat with the extrusion multiplier cut down to .90 and see what the result is like. Thanks everyone yet again!

    #75996

    Aaryn
    Participant

    I am. It familiar with the MP3DP.  So this may not work.  But looking at the pictures it seems like a very similar design to a prusa i3 knock off I bought A few years ago.  One thing that helped me with it was a trick that insulated the underside of the heated bed.  I used foam core aka foam board aka gaterboard.  It is usually sold in hobby shops, craft stores and even dollar stores.  It won’t melt unless it gets up to something like 200 C.  Since the heated bed never gets above 120 on my machine it is good enough.

    Insulating under the bed makes it easier to maintain bed temperature and it prevents structural parts under your print bed from getting hot and swelling/expanding.

    Cork board is a better insulator but it was more expensive.  Cardboard also works but not as well.

    #75999

    Bill
    Participant

    Sheesh, you’d think in a learned forum like this people would know the end of the dinosaurs was caused primarily by the volcanic vents opening in the Indian subcontinent, not by the asteroid that popular ‘knowledge’ claims. 🙂

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #76008

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Sheesh, you’d think in a learned forum like this people would know the end of the dinosaurs was caused primarily by the volcanic vents opening in the Indian subcontinent, not by the asteroid that popular ‘knowledge’ claims. 🙂

    I thought they were all turned into gummy candies.

    #76203

    Rob
    Participant

    I ran into issues getting ABS to stick to the build plate, but never PLA. I just use the hair spray trick. For ABS, I put some acetone into a jar and let some messed up prints dissolve in it and it turns into a slurry that you can paint onto the build surface. It’s nearly impossible for it to not stick. I’m assuming the same thing would work for PLA if you keep running into issues with it sticking. It shouldn’t be necessary, but it might tackle the plate adhesion issue.

    #76358

    Bill
    Participant

    Except PLA doesn’t dissolve in acetone like ABS does. IIRC I remember seeing a discussion when I was first playing with trying to get ABS working on my MP3DP that delved into which solvents worked with which plastics. I have tried soaking nozzles filled with PLA in acetone and it takes quite a lot of time for them to get to the point where you can clean them out.

    #76360

    Barry
    Participant

    The stuff used to melt pla will also melt you.

    #76369

    Heath
    Participant

    Sheesh, you’d think in a learned forum like this people would know the end of the dinosaurs was caused primarily by the volcanic vents opening in the Indian subcontinent, not by the asteroid that popular ‘knowledge’ claims. 🙂

    I thought it was the expanding earth!  (Seriously, that’s a theory – the earth is supposedly slowly growing and that growth interrupted the dinosaur’s migration patterns leading to their extinction.  There are some entertaining videos on YouTube, but not nearly as entertaining as the Flat Earther videos.)

    #76380

    Barry
    Participant

    Sheesh, you’d think in a learned forum like this people would know the end of the dinosaurs was caused primarily by the volcanic vents opening in the Indian subcontinent, not by the asteroid that popular ‘knowledge’ claims. 🙂

    I thought it was the expanding earth! (Seriously, that’s a theory – the earth is supposedly slowly growing and that growth interrupted the dinosaur’s migration patterns leading to their extinction. There are some entertaining videos on YouTube, but not nearly as entertaining as the Flat Earther videos.)

    Well obviously the earth is expanding.  That’s why the continents are all spread out now!

     

    🤣

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