Quartapounds MPCNC in Toronto Area

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC Quartapounds MPCNC in Toronto Area

This topic contains 40 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Kelly D 2 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 41 total)
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  • #92601

    Quarta
    Participant

    I’ll be using this thread to document my MPCNC build!

    I’m from Canada, love to tinker with electronics, SDR’s, 3d printing, micro controllers (besides the mandatory hockey and fishing 😉

    Can’t wait to get my MPCNC up and running!

    Just Starting my build 🙂  I’ve got all my parts ordered

    Parts are now printing! ….

    Here’s the live feed of my printer working on the first batch of parts

     

    I’m sure I’ll have a few questions along the way…  I’ll be looking through others build logs for tips as well.

    Cheers

     

    #92634

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Welcome to the crew, you should fit in just fine around here!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #95166

    Quarta
    Participant

    My build has been progressing slowly.

    Had to do some necessary 3D printer repairs/upgrades to complete my parts,  I have everything printed now, all the electronics, and hardware.

    I’ll be using the standard 24×24 build.

    I plan on using an old DIY 2×4 aquarium stand that will work perfectly… WAY overbuilt for this purpose. it’s a very easy, very sturdy design.  It’s way fancier than it needs to be for this purpose too, lol

    Here’s a link to the Design Template

     

     

    #95493

    Quarta
    Participant

    Some progress, finally!  I think it’s going to go together quickly now.

     

    #95694

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is a fun way to build it, as parts come off the printer you get to add them to the machine.

    #95910

    Quarta
    Participant

     

    Some more progress!  I had a heck of a time getting the x/y perpendicular to each other.  Tightening C bolts a lot got things close…. Still not perfect.  Need to replace the tywraps with the proper size….

    I also had an issue where the Y axis wasn’t letting the X axis rest properly on the mounts, (it would rock back and forth on the y axis rod).  I filed/sanded down the inside of the y axis mounts a bit to allow it to sit lower, and stop the x axis from rocking (or bending when clamped down).

    Quitting for the night.  Gonna see if I can wire it up and get things moving tomorrow!

     

    #95941

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Go Canada! Ha! I actually miss the building part of these things. It’s a lot of fun. I guess I need to use them now to make other stuff to build. Just wanted to chime in on your thread to watch your progress. And I dig the subject line “Quartapounds”. Curious where that comes from. It’s got a cool ring to it.

    Good call on the ziptie disclaimer too – Ryan might have unleashed on you : )

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #96006

    Quarta
    Participant

    OMG.

    Just got back from 3 hardware stores… Looking for the proper size tywraps/zip ties.

    Home Depot, Canadian Tire, and Lowes… NOTHING!  They have tiny 18lb ones, and thick 50lb ones…  Which is the same thickness as the ones I have pictured above, too thick.

    If someone had told me that out of all the things I needed for this project, that tywraps were  going to be the hardest thing to source, I would have laughed.

    I guess I Need to visit my electrical supply store in the morning (or wait for Amazon)…

    At first, I was blaming it on the design of the part(the hole is too small)… then after reading around on the forum (specifically THIS thread) …I realized it’s by design. If they’re too big they won’t sit properly….  but damn.

    I actually had 3 of the proper sized ones laying around… Just short a few!  Who’d have guessed the size would be so crucial!  I might swap out the big ones I have for the 18lb ones just so things sit properly so I can get it running today.

    #96009

    Quarta
    Participant

    Go Canada! Ha! I actually miss the building part of these things. It’s a lot of fun. I guess I need to use them now to make other stuff to build. Just wanted to chime in on your thread to watch your progress. And I dig the subject line “Quartapounds”. Curious where that comes from. It’s got a cool ring to it.

    Good call on the ziptie disclaimer too – Ryan might have unleashed on you : )

    They are definitely fun to build!  Anticipating the sense of accomplishment when it’s fired up for the first time!

    haha, I’ve heard I need to make sure I cut them 😉  …I can image how it’d feel to spend so much time engineering something and have someone leave a hack job on the tywraps at the very end of the build!  Funny enough, my search for the right ones today came up short.

    Quartapound is an old nickname from highschool, there are a few reasons for it, it does sound similar to my last name though.  I use it online because it’s unique, I don’t have to worry about different username or adding random numbers on every site!

    Hopefully posting a picture of my ‘crown’ in the near future!

    #96019

    Kelly D
    Participant

    At first, I was blaming it on the design of the part(the hole is too small)… then after reading around on the forum (specifically THIS thread) …I realized it’s by design. If they’re too big they won’t sit properly….  but damn.

    You might find that any old zip tie will work to be honest. But be warned they do fail no matter which ones you use so you need spares. Not that they break – well, one did once. I have trouble getting the doubled over belt ones tight enough to hold really really well and have found twice now the belt has slipped out. I’ve now extended the belts a bit so I can triple zip the fold over and so far so good. Mine are from the cylindrical 4,200 assorted pack from Princess Auto so you KNOW they’re top quality. LOL

    #96100

    Quarta
    Participant

    YESS!!!

    We’re in business!

    I forgot I had ordered 20T not 16T because of price/availability…. So the first crown test needed an  emergency abort to allow me to adjust steps per mm in the firmware.

    I found a few others who did the same, they were told the increased speed/lower torque isnt a problem for drawing/3d printing or laser etching/cutting, but I’ll want the 16T for milling.

    Still some fine-tuning to do but I’ve got the ball rolling!!

     

     

     

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #96182

    Quarta
    Participant

    Ended up having to change the Steps per mm to 80 in firmware before my measurements matched Estlcam’s.

    using A4988’s with all 3 jumpers, and 20T pulleys.

    will setting the steps that low have an effect on my resolution at all?

    Just tried drawing one of my favourites, detail seems pretty good, the entire drawing is only 76mm

     

    #96202

    BT
    Participant

    It won’t have that much of an effect – the loss of resolution sounds bad when used as a percentage (80%) but in reality that means each step is 0.0125mm instead of 0.01mm.  I’m sure there’s lots more math involved in determining the actual worst case error due to the larger pulleys, but I’m confident is saying it is less than 0.02mm.

    #96243

    Quarta
    Participant

    Just got the 2.3w hooked up and running!  Wasnt too bad making the necessary adjustments in firmware (the 10hz thing and changing pin 9 to 44)

    Just printed off the first image I found and I think it’s not a bad start!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #96244

    Quarta
    Participant

    #96247

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Wow! You’re miles ahead of where I started out with my laser. Good job! That was moving pretty fast too. What feed rate was that running?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #96253

    Quarta
    Participant

    Thanks! My success relied completely on the foundation you guys have laid out.  I was just following along others footsteps, and it all came together with basically zero issues!

    I used ImageToGcode for that run, I copied the settings from the screenshot on the thingiverse download page.  20mm/sec burn, 100 travel.  max power 55%

    #96254

    Kelly D
    Participant

    55%?! That’s a nice burn for 55%.

    I’ll have to play with my travel speeds. Im sitting right around 20-25mm/s burn to get optimal results. But I haven’t separated the travel too much yet. What did you use to get the gcode? Lightburn?

    #96281

    Quarta
    Participant

    I used ImagetoG-Code, the app that was referenced in the laser how to area. I did make sure the laser was well focused, not sure if that made a difference to allow me to run at a lower percentage, what do most or running 2.3 watt lasers set their percentage to? I imagine it would have a lot to do with the image you’re trying to reproduce. did this one at same power settings but went up to 25 m m per second to make sure the detailed parts didn’t get overburnt.

    #96282

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Are you using the one that’s “branded” with the Vicious1 logo (you’ll know what I mean if you do)? I forgot about that software. I should play with it some more. I’m finding light burn pretty effective too mind you.

    #96734

    Christopher
    Participant

    I’m a Canuckian in Michigan. (still don’t know how that happened!)
    Too bad they haven’t figured out how to do the secret handshake over the internet.
    Anyway, this is all very inspiring! Good on ya! 😀

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #96889

    Quarta
    Participant

    LightBurn looks impressive.  Might have to take some time to learn how to use it.  The version of ImagetoGcode is 1.2.7 , no Vicious logo anywhere.  Is there a difference functionally?

     

    #97030

    Quarta
    Participant

    Just been playing around with LightBurn on the weekend.  I was impressed, very powerful/easy to use.

    Starting to play with Adobe Illustrator too, it’s immediately obvious how powerful this software can be when paired with a laser.

    I tried making my first cuts as well, (on wood that was WAY too thick) but I still sorta managed with my 2.3w laser.

    6.5mm thick plywood. 100% power, about 65mm from surface, 5mm/s, Z step 0.43, 16 passes.  I’m going to get some thinner wood, haha.

    It almost cut through the entire circle… a few spots didn’t quite make it

     

    #97114

    Quarta
    Participant

    just messing around with the laser. did this one at 50mm/s , 80% power. Used LightBurn, Dither.  probably need to slow it down and bring the power down I would guess? I might not be able to get much more resolution at this size, from this pic? (88mmx110mm)

    Source Credit(ink-drawings-meni-chatzipanagiotou -Pinterest)

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #97169

    Kyle
    Participant

    Hey nice job documenting this all.

    I’m jealous of your laser speeds, I cant seem to avoid ghosting over 5mm/s even adjusting reverse offsets.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #97461

    Quarta
    Participant

    Hey, Thanks!

     

    I read your other post it sounds like you got the issue sorted out.

     

    I am really enjoying burning…. I’m going to get some 3mm wood stock so that I can experiment a little more with laser cutting.  I’ll work my way up to milling, I have a feeling my MPCNC is going to grow in size as well.

    Here’s my efforts from tonight, 40mm/sec 65% power, lightburn, dither

    Source Credit — Derek Meyers http://derekthedeliman.tumblr.com/post/164347290492/august-18-2017-day-1207-instagram-tumblr

    #97564

    Quarta
    Participant

    DeWalt DW660 just showed up today. Looking forward to making chips fly!

     

    Still need to print the mount when I get home tonight.

     

    Still need to find a good source for 1/8 inch plywood (for cutting with my laser). Big box stores around me don’t seem to carry them from what I found

    #98489

    Quarta
    Participant

    well, I got distracted…. Introducing the first chocolate Extruder mounted to an MPCNC.

    I got inspired by this thingiverse post https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3511736

    and it looked easy enough.  I had a spare stepper laying around, and I used the thermocouple from the spare head that came with my 3d printer.  for heating I used resistance wire from amazon.  it’s all hooked up/controlled directly by Marlin, using the stock V1 firmware.  had to edit the minimum cold extrusion temp to much lower than the stock 170, had to change the thermocouple ID number from ‘999’ (dummy) to’5′ , which is what I found in the custom 1.1.9 marlin fimware i’m runnin on the anycubic 3d printer.

    It hold temp perfectly and controls the extrusion motor perfectly.  It works with water.  I’m just about to get some chocolate ready and fill a syringe to give it a go!  need to find/make a simple STL.

    I’ll be streaming this live on youtube when it happens, once its working lol

    some teaser pics

     

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #98493

    Kelly D
    Participant

    Oh man! Can’t wait to see this…..video please ; )

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #98557

    Quarta
    Participant

    1 user thanked author for this post.
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