New build, Telemark Norway

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC New build, Telemark Norway

This topic contains 27 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Turbinbjorn 1 week, 6 days ago.

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  • #106646

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    PSX_20190720_235739
    PSX_20190720_235635

    Hi all!

    I’m going to bed now and when I wake up my last essential part should be done printing! My Sunday plan is building a 300 x 500 mm working area mpcnc with a Makita router.

    This will be my first cnc router and I’m very excited about it! I’ve been eyeing an xcarve for years but I have never had both money and opportunity at the same time, still haven’t but the cost and size flexibility of the mpcnc makes it impossible to ignore and will be the exactly the adventure I need and want this summer!

    I’ll be updating here soon!

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #106661

    Turbinbjorn
    Participant

    Looks good! Greetings from Tromsø here. What board/controller are you going to use? My work area is planned to be 400*600mm. I’m curious if it’ll make a big difference in stability versus your build. Let’s see in time 🙂

    #106663

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    I bought the kit from here with the regular Rambo board, I think… Haven’t really dived into that part yet.

    Yeah I want to build the biggest machine possible but this is my first so I’ll be a little conservative also until I can get a garage built I really can’t fit anything deeper than a kitchen counter top.

    #106688

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    Day one of assemblyIMG_20190721_220026_222

    done!

    Got a lot done, cut tubing and assembled a good portion of the machine. The #3dprinted parts were a little small so I had to drill the holes and really force the tubing in were applicable. I’ve destroyed one part which was totally my own fault because I switched filament mid print to a different kind and the layers did not merge correctly. I also made a small crack in one piece but I’m hoping it isn’t critical. Hope to finish building it this week but I do have a day job to tend to #oneweektovacation!

    #106790

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    You are almost ready to get it dirty, really good sized build, should be super fun.

    #106802

    alabaster
    Participant

    Wow! didnt expect to find this many norwegians on here.

    Greetings from Toten^^

     

    Where did you guys buy your conduit rails and what dimensions are they?

    #106808

    Turbinbjorn
    Participant

    Hello Toten, welcome to the show! Tromsø here.

    I’m using 25mm steel pipes from Biltema. I believe many Norwegians do. I’m still in the print process, but I have an impression of that these pipes fit really well for this project.

    #106810

    Magnus
    Participant

    Hi!

    From Hvarnes, Vestfold here!

    I used these tubes aswell, and found them a bit oval due to the weld. Had to pay attention to where the weld was so it’a not on a bearing then it worked perfect!

    I used this and a drill to polish the tubes. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2923047

    Used Autosol first, then cleaned them with WD40, then I had some greas  on them to prevent rust.

     

    MG

    #106846

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    Thanks Ryan I can’t wait to get it dirty! Finished printing the part that fell apart last night so I just need a little free time for some more assembly!

    Super fun seeing this many fellow Norwegians here!

    Yeah I also bought the tubing from biltema. Seems fine to me, as I have mentioned some parts were super tight on the tubing but the bearing parts seem to roll very nicely on the tubes.

    #106857

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    Did a little late evening assembly on the mpcnc today, I’m getting very close to booting it up for the first time! Super excited to start making chips!

    IMG_20190723_222529_466

    #106862

    Turbinbjorn
    Participant

    Vakkert! Beautiful!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #107140

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    I have finished the build! Well mostly, it’s functional at least! I have a lot of cable management to do and I need a place to keep my laptop but it works!

    I printed the crown and I think it looks great! The paper was poorly attached to the table so it moved a little. I used Ryan’s gcode, can’t seem to get estlcam to work right. Do I have to buy it to get it working? Or am I doing something wrong?

    #107400

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Do I have to buy it to get it working?

    Nope.

     

    Or am I doing something wrong?

    You are going to have to elaborate on what is happening, Follow the estlcam setup and crown tutorial.

    #107411

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    I was just fooling around in estlcam now and I figured out what I had done wrong. When I tried making the program for the crown I always got a runtime of like 4 hours(!) and when i did try it the machine would just stand there vibrating! But now I see my error I had followed your feeds and speeds from the guide and set it to 10 mm/s or so i thought! I was actually set to 10mm/min! So like 0.2mm/s which didn’t work so well…

    #107431

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    I did a test today with the pen, made a beautiful piece of gaming art! Joking aside it came out perfect!

    PSX_20190725_224734

    And I seem to have a very basic handle on estlcam. So I decided to mount the makita and try my hand on some wood! And I’m pleased to say it worked perfectly as well!

    PSX_20190725_224835

    It’s not perfect but it was my first try, speeds and feeds need to be tuned as it did plunge the whole v bit straight into the wood and that did bog down the makita some and it did leave a bit rough surface doing so. But overall I’m super happy! And can’t wait to do more with it!

    Thank you Ryan and I’m pleased to say I got it super dirty!

    #107435

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    My eyes may be tricking me, but it also looks like when the bit was rising up to make a corner, it wasn’t doing it at quite the right angle. That usually means the bit angle isn’t quite what you have in estlcam. Especially looking at the second wing on the left side. It otherwise looks perfect, but near the corners, it’s not coming up fast enough to make that side be flat.

    It’s definitely cool looking though, and I would be happy to hang that on my wall. Congratulations!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #107436

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    Oh OK, I’ll check the angle on it! It’s a cheap China bit from ebay, supposed to be 60 degrees but I haven’t checked it myself.

    Thanks! I really can’t wait to do more stuff like this!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #108286

    Turbinbjorn
    Participant

    I’m assembling now, and have used the sanding/polishing jig to make the biltema pipes smoother. Now the rollers move easily, but they feel as rattling/clanking along the pipes. Its like the pipes are not very flat, or all the bearings are having the same weakness! Anybody else who has encountered this? I guess it doesn’t matter, as long as things roll easily enough.

    #108348

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    I didn’t do anything to my tubes and it works great, but I haven’t checked tolerances really. But it does function very well.

    But I can’t say mine feel rattly though, it’s not super smooth but they roll fairly easy and are very tight on the tubes.

    #108349

    Turbinbjorn
    Participant

    I wonder if the bearings are of a bad quality. I have no idea to determine it. I guess I can try with a different type that I have lying around.

    Good to hear that the Biltema pipes are rolled well upon! I’m still glad that I have sanded them, they look very shiny 😉

    #108395

    Turbinbjorn
    Participant

    I just tried with the other type of bearings (608rs, abec-5, istead of 608rs2). They are much more heavy with grease and move slower – but muuuch smoother. The bearings I used initially was actually very noisy, making rattling sounds. The new ones move much slower, but steadier and without so much noise. From what I can read from older threads on this form – it seems like the bearings doesn’t matter that much. So therefore I ended up with the ones that made the least noise. (not that it matters when the router is running!!)

    #108399

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    I ordered the kit from here and I would say the the bearings move kinda slow and deliberate so that does sound right to me!

    It also moves very quietly, and I’m actually kind of surprised the makita router isn’t as noisy as I would have thought! My vacuum is actually more noisy than the mpcnc while running. It’s also from biltema…

    #108405

    Turbinbjorn
    Participant

    The only worry is that these bearings are not double shileded (2rs). They have only one cover. I guess we will see how it goes! The Norwegian bearing-shop (kulelager24.no) takes 10 kr piece for the cheap variant, and 52,- for a normal 608 2rs. Very expensive compared to Ryan!

    #108409

    Kjell Olav Forberg
    Participant

    Oh wow yeah that will be expensive, it sure uses a crazy amount of bearings! I haven’t used my machine that much yet but I have made a lot of dust and chips! And it gets everywhere! So I’m assuming double shielded bearings are a must have for trouble free machining!

    #108456

    Barry
    Participant

    I built my first mpcnc in, looks at google photos, HOLY SHIT! 2013.  They’re still running on the kit bearings.  As long as you have some kind of dust collection (you really need dust collection) the kit bearings work just fine.  No need to add extra expense.

    #108489

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    If you have the tension bolts too tight it can kinda feel like bad bearings, loosen them up a bit give it some room to settle in.

    #108988

    Bill
    Participant

    The basic difference between different bearings, once the size has been determined (608 means 8mm inner hole, 6mm change in radius from inner hole to outer edge, so 20mm across) has to do with unshielded (or open cage), shielded and sealed. Further difference is between doing that on one side or doing it on both. Shielded means it’s harder to get contaminants into the bearing, but you can remove the shield to regrease, sealed means you can’t remove the shield and the grease they came with is there forever. For our uses you want double sided, since both sides are exposed, and either shielded or sealed. Sealed will last longer without maintenance, shielded will be cheaper.
    Some of the cheapest bearings coming out of China have looser tolerances for the allowed variability in clearances between the bearing race and the balls (and also the cage that holds the balls in place) which tends to allow more of a rattle when spun. These can be great for fidgit spinners but aren’t much good for our uses. It sounds like @turbinbjorn got those initially…

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by  Bill.
    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #108992

    Turbinbjorn
    Participant

    I should have gone for more of Ryan’s parts! The learning curve is sometimes very steep, but I really appreciate all the help and very skilled assistance in this forum. I’m still doubting if the Chinese bearings would suffice, but now I’m so tired of going so much back and forth, that I’m just going to dive in and get my hands dirty!

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