New build in TN started.

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This topic contains 136 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 year, 8 months ago.

Viewing 17 posts - 121 through 137 (of 137 total)
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  • #45595

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Thank you all that gave help. Looks like we are good to go again. We will find out in the morning when I run the table.

    Regards,

    Russh

    #46921

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Hello guys, I have a question about hooking up an auto zero plate, where do I connect the wire on the Rambo board? And where does the ground wire connect?

    Thanks in advance,

    RussH

    #46935

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I will have some info on this shortly. If you want to do it now be extremely careful you can fry your board if you get the wrong pin, and it is next to the right one. You wire as you would and endstop, signal goes to the plate and negative goes to the bit clamp. DO NOT USE THE POSITIVE. there are a few videos from our uses as well as a bunch of others, do a ton of research before you plug it in. This leaves an open wire to the processor, if you are unsure get a touch button that keeps the connections protected.

    You need to look at the wiring diagram / pin out for your board to verify the connection.

    #47682

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Hello gentlemen anyone have experience with the vinyl cutter?

    Will it cut stencil material?

    thank you

    Russh

    #47699

    Neil
    Participant

    Just read through this thread.  Nice work on the table.  My only suggestion would be to use it a bit lol.  Get familiar with it.  Get that thing dirty. Then once you are familiar with it then try new things.  Vinyl requires a good z level. It’s all about pressure.  I do not want to discourage you in any way but if I had to cut vinyl I would personally prefer to attempt it on a smaller mpcnc vs the lowrider. I think you are headed towards disappointment jumping to vinyl this early in the game.  Then again I credit you for sticking with your build this far.  So all in all.  Use it abuse it and have some fun.  Then show us your creations in the forum.

    You did get me thinking, however. It would be damn cool to cut some large scale vinyl!

    Neil

    #47700

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    My my flex mount surface imperfections should be okay. I am just not sure how thick of material you can cut through with my drag knife. It really is one of the cheapest tools to try though $10 and it should work on thinner stuff like acetate, if you want thicker look at the tangential cutter thread, that is exactly how thicker material is cut on really expensive cutters.

    #48156

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Hello again my low ryder has developed a mid of it’s own.  Fist couple of times when the job is done and everything looks great when the Z is supposed to raise it does not and the tool cuts across the project.

    Today in the middle of a project it went off on it’s own direction with the Z down at cutting depth.

    Then the last thing the Z motor on the operator side did not raise and the job was ruined.

    I know these are three different scenario’s but does someone have a suggestion?

    One thing I was wanting to know is there a way to see the code either during or after a project to see if something is going haywire that way.  I am using Repetier to run the machine I have never used the SD card is the SD easier to use and maybe more stable?

    sign

    Thanks again for all of your help along the way you guys are amazing.

    Russ H

    #48157

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Hello again my low rider has developed a mind of it’s own.

    You probably need a standard exorcism. I would suggest burning some sage and leaving some food (preferably fruit or something that quickly rots) on the Low Rider until it gets better. Worst case, you can call the ghostbusters, but they are pretty expensive.

    Fist couple of times when the job is done and everything looks great when the Z is supposed to raise it does not and the tool cuts across the project.

    The gcode file is just a text file, you can look at what it’s doing in any text editor (although if it’s big, some text editors can’t handle it). Here is the best reference for gcodes:

    http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

    I would look at the last few G00 or G01 commands. Those are your basic movement commands. The hardest part about understanding those is that they are the destination, but the start was determined by the last point. So for example, if you had this:

    G01 X550 Y456 Z-12
    G01 X0 Y0

    That would drive back through your work at Z=-12. That might be obvious, but it would be less obvious if it was something like this:

    G01 X550 Y456 Z-12
    G01 X0 Y0 Z0

    It will travel along the line from (550,456,-12) to (0,0,0), so it will be below 0 until it reaches 0,0,0. Worse, would be something like this:

    G01 Z-12
    blah
    blah
    blah
    G01 X550 Y456
    G01 X0 Y0

    You would have to look pretty far up to find out where it was at Z=-12.

    What you really want is something like this (assuming Z=5 is a good clearance plane for you):

    G01 X550 Y456 Z-12
    G00 Z5
    G00 X0 Y0

    (The difference between G01 and G00 is nothing in Marlin, but other firmwares would drive at a faster rate with G00).
    (I also didn’t put the F numbers on there, but the last one determines the overall speed of the move).

    What CAM software are you using? EstlCAM usually does a good job going back to the clearance height at the end. There is an option to stop at the last location, or drive back to the origin, but it still stays at the clearance height, IIRC. I’m sure it’s possible to change the settings to break that. You can you try something small, with the same CAM processes, maybe in air or foam to see if it’s CAM or something physical going on with your machine.

    You can paste the last few dozen lines of gcode here, and I’ll take a look at it (or someone else will if they beat me to it). But you should look at it too, to see if you can figure it out.

    Today in the middle of a project it went off on it’s own direction with the Z down at cutting depth.

    Is where it drove weird or the fact that it wasn’t raised? If it didn’t raise, and went to another part of the project to do some more work, then it’s a problem with CAM or you’re skipping steps on the Z. If it’s driving away from the project in X or Y, then it’s something else.

    Then the last thing the Z motor on the operator side did not raise and the job was ruined.

    Yeah, That’s no good. If one ever raises and not the other then the rest of these problems might be related. Go through and see if you can figure out how to make that less likely:
    – Is it in series or parallel?
    – Is your Z driver adjusted?
    – Does your Z move freely? Does it drop on it’s own weight when you’re done?
    – Check your wiring. Give a little tug on each wire. Do any of them come loose?
    – Did you start with a square Z? I could imagine it binding if one was at a different height, then it would have more difficulty on one side than the other.

    #49232

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Hi all quick question about the stepper motors. Do the go bad very often? The Z motor on the non operator side of the table drops while running. And makes a grinding noise sometimes.

    Thanks in advance.

    Russ H

    #49233

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    No not usually, we don’t actually use them very hard at all. they are rated for much nastier environment and temps, and we run them at about 60-70% max rated power, they should last a very long time. I would triple check the continuity and condition of your wires and connections. make sure you have not rubbed through the at the edge of the steel rails.

    #52313

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Hello all,

    It has been a while, things are good here I hope everyone out there is doing fantastic.

    I do have a problem my X axis is not moving. I know the motor is good I unplugged the other two and plugged the X into the Y slot and it runs there. Also checked the 5anp fuses they are good.

    Is the board bad?

    Please advise.

    Thanks in advance for your responses.

    Russ H

    #52314

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Try swapping the drivers (with the power off) and see if the problem follows.

    If it is the driver the chances are high you moved the x axis manually too fast and power you generated popped the driver. Or static, or just bad luck.

    #52328

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Ryan,

    How do I swap out the drivers?

    RussH

    #52329

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The little guys with the heat sinks on them can be unplugged from the board. Make sure all power is disconnected. No USB or green plug should be in the board when doing this.

    Not the heat sinks themselves, the little boards they are on.

    #52331

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    This will reset the drivers and it should work again?

    #52332

    Russ Heffner
    Participant

    Ryan,

    When you say drivers do you mean the stepper motors? I already swapped motors around and the X motor works in the Y position. I have the board here on my desk trying to figure out what is what I am at a loss here Please explain for the rookie here. Much appreciated.

    RussH

    #52334

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Hmm, Sorry disregard the swap thing, you have the mini-rambo. It has back current protection, you should not be able to kill it. You swapped X and Y as long as you kept the wires in that loop you verified that all the steppers and all the wire harnesses are good the only thing it could be is the board.

    I see you placed an order, there is another thing to try. So I will hold off on your shipment for the moment.

    I think I can remap the pins on your board to move the signal for your X driver to come out of the E port instead. Are you comfortable flashing a customized version of the firmware?

    It goes like this, step by step, https://www.v1engineering.com/marlin-firmware/

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