Tagged: power supply
August 16, 2017 at 9:43 am #41475August 16, 2017 at 10:10 am #41485
oooh.. aaah. Nice looking table.
1 user thanked author for this post.August 16, 2017 at 10:32 am #41486
DAM! There we go. Lest see the side you are having the alignment issue with.August 16, 2017 at 10:37 am #41487
Nice color 🙂August 16, 2017 at 10:38 am #41488August 16, 2017 at 10:41 am #41491
I had a similar issue. I blame my 3D printing of the leadscrew nut holder. I ended up just sanding the part that attaches to the plate a little bit, so it would end up square. I also considered shimming it a little bit.August 16, 2017 at 10:49 am #41492
Thanks for the tip I will try some shims between the board and lead screw holder since I need it to be further away from the board. I’ll let you know how that goes.August 16, 2017 at 10:52 am #41493
It’s at an angle, isn’t it, compared to the z rails, are you sure the Nut just isn;t in crooked?August 16, 2017 at 10:53 am #41494
Before we go shimming things, Those are my prints and my flat parts and mine fit right. Can I see the actual mount.August 16, 2017 at 3:24 pm #41520August 16, 2017 at 3:29 pm #41524
Another question guys. Do the rails (conduit) for the Z rub on the side of the table or is there supposed to be a gap? If a gap how much?
Attachments:August 16, 2017 at 3:44 pm #41527
Preferably a gap but depends on how square your table is, small gap 1/16-1/4″.August 16, 2017 at 5:00 pm #41532
Sorry I have been having BIOS issues, Should be all good now.
Four possibility that I see.
1-I just double checked the CAD, it’s dead on.
2-Part printed with an Elephant foot, squashed bottom that flares out, that would angle the rod the way yours is. I checked the two sets I have here they seem pretty dam good actually. So your probably is as well.
3-screwing the brass nut in too tight angled it out(away form the table), loosen them and give em a wiggle.
4-maybe my printers aren’t super perpendicular and actually printed at an angle….that would suck, I check once and a while but I will check when the current set of parts finishes.
Either way, this isn’t all that critical, if you have it connected you will be okay. The cosine (maybe tangent) error that this could introduce would be very tiny, and only in the Z direction. Less than the deflection the urethane wheels would give I’m sure.August 16, 2017 at 6:27 pm #41553
The issue isn’t accuracy as much as it is friction in the screw. I just kind of pushed mine over until it threaded and it wouldn’t turn very well at all. That’s when I sanded it.
I think the issue might be that the screws that hold it to the plate are on the top, so if you tighten it (or over tighten it) it will angle that part. I remember guessing something like that. It’s been a while.August 16, 2017 at 7:26 pm #41567August 16, 2017 at 7:29 pm #41572
Like that but the rambo, ignore the thermistor plugs on this page.August 17, 2017 at 4:54 pm #41661
I am ready to test the steppers. I downloaded the Arduino I know the Marlin firmware is flashed on the Rambo, I have downloaded the Repetier host software.
What I do not understand is what to do with the Arduino software. WIll someone please explain.
RusshAugust 17, 2017 at 4:58 pm #41662
Normally you just install it to get the arduino drivers on your system, Do that just in case, but I don’t think the rambo needs it. It’s hard to say. You won;t actually have to use the arduino software unless you want to flash new firmware.August 17, 2017 at 4:58 pm #41663
You’d use the Arduino software to change the Marlin code on the mini Rambo. If you don’t need to change the marlin code, then you don’t need the Arduino software.August 17, 2017 at 4:58 pm #41664
Normally you just install it to get the arduino drivers on your system, Do that just in case, but I don’t think the rambo needs it. It’s hard to say. You won;t actually have to use the arduino software unless you want to flash new firmware.
Oh yeah, windows needs drivers. I forgot.August 17, 2017 at 5:36 pm #41666
Thank you guys. Ok I started the board up (no smoke that’s good) but the LCD screen did not light up. And no motors moved.
Then I remembered somewhere it said to jump something on the board to trick it into thinking the heater for 3D printer is on. If that’s the case how do I jump that out on the board
thanks again allAugust 17, 2017 at 5:38 pm #41667
Did you connect the power supply? The mini-rambo can’t power itself from the USB alone.
The resistor jumper is used if you don’t have an extruder, and have the wrong firmware, but it won’t prevent the LCD from lighting up, and telling you that there’s a heating problem.
Ryan’s probably answering this same question…August 17, 2017 at 5:41 pm #41668
I am not 3D printing just using the low rider to do some wood workingAugust 17, 2017 at 5:43 pm #41669
So maybe I do need to jump out the heater on the board?August 17, 2017 at 5:58 pm #41672
wait…August 17, 2017 at 6:01 pm #41673
No worries I’ll wait for more info.
ThanksAugust 17, 2017 at 6:04 pm #41675
The motors won;t move by themselves and if you don;t have a screen going then you can;t move the motors, so that part is solved.
As for the screen, it is probably just plugged in wrong there are four ways it do it so 25% chance of getting it right on the first try…It always takes me a few.
Just look at my picture in the rambo page showing everything plugged in that I previously linked.
Make sure port 1 is plugged into port 1, 2 into 2, form there we are down to 50/50. If it still doesn’t work power down and flip the plugs the other way.
On the lcd if you have the cables pointed towards the bottom of the screen the rambo end will point towards the middle of the board.
There is a real solid chance (99.999%) you have the correct firmware that does not need any heater resistor plugged in, I stopped that before I started carrying minirambo’s, pretty sure I made you wait and you are the first one to get the new firmware but I am not 100% on that.August 17, 2017 at 6:26 pm #41681
Thanks Ryan I received your email. I was using the Repetior host software to try and move the motors.
I will let you know how things turn out in the morning.
Thanks again for your helpAugust 18, 2017 at 6:11 am #41730
The ribbon cables will only plug in in one direction ribbons facing UP. I tried again and the LCD did not power up. I have them just like shown in the link sent. I did reverse the ports also and still no LCD.
I also sent photos of the cables and the wiring harness to connect the motors. The wiring harness sent is different than what shows in the link. Just want to be sure the one I have are correct. Please take a look at the pics I sent let me know.
Attachments:August 18, 2017 at 7:46 am #41741
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