New Build in Seattle

This topic contains 13 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 week, 4 days ago.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
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  • #103111

    Charles
    Participant

    Hi all,

    I’m currently printing and ordering parts and thought I’d share a quick spreadsheet for people tracking what they’ve printed and how much print time is left. I’m also printing for a friend, so my printer is going to get a workout and made the sheet more useful 🙂

    I’m excited to have a larger cnc at home. I got a genmitsu 1810 pro back in February. While it has been great, I immediately started looking for a way to go larger!

    Charles.

     

    #105016

    Charles
    Participant

    Update: 90% printed and I’ve cut the conduit. Going for 13.35″ x 34″ work area (i.e. I bought a 2’x4′ piece of indoor quality ply and 20′ of conduit).

    I’m a bit nervous about the 34″ since it’s recommended to start smaller, but I figure I can just have the rails out the end for a 24″ work space and re-settle the machine to full 34″ if everything is working.

    I got the conduit cut, thankfully the cheap cutter from amazon held up nicely. I still need to deburr, has anyone used a Dremel for this? I have a titanium bit (I think that’s what it was) that should work fine on steel.

    Ryan, it looks like you’re out of steppers, are you planning on re-stocking?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #105059

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I won’t have any steppers until Wed or so of next week.

    #105078

    Barry
    Participant

    Sanding drum in dremel to debur.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #105080

    Erwin Vigilia
    Participant

    Sanding drum in dremel to debur.

    I did this, too… didn’t last long on the 304 SS 1″ tube I used, but the replacement drums were cheap. There’s also a drill powered conduit reamer/trimmer/deburrer that works well… but I hate buying one-time-use tools even though my toolbox is fool of them! 😉

    #105139

    Charles
    Participant

    Thanks all. I tried the Dremel with the bit I had and it worked fine, but holding it by hand wasn’t doing the cleanest job. I’ll try the sanding drum Barry, thanks! I also don’t want to spend $22 on a one time use 😁 Hopefully that will make a cleaner edge and I don’t have to print a jig to hold the Dremel and conduit.

    #105154

    Robin Morgan
    Participant

    alu oxide dremel bit is good for de burring etc

    #105158

    Barry
    Participant

    alu oxide dremel bit is good for de burring etc

    That’s what the sanding drums are!  Just cheaper, and you can use them for other things.

    #105160

    Bryan J
    Participant

    To clean up the outside of the EMT conduit I used an electric drill and sandpaper.  I found that my 1/2″ plug cutter’s OD was very close to my conduit’s ID (walked around the workshop with a small piece of conduit looking for what fit the conduit and drill chuck).  I wrapped it a couple times with masking tape and press fit the conduit.  Now I have a mini sanding lathe.  For the longer pieces I had to wrap a bit more tape to the outside and onto my drill chuck to prevent it from spinning when hitting around the halfway point.  Easy brushed steel look without hand cramps.

    Here’s a picture of my parts before doing step one of the build.  Hard to see the conduit, but it has been sanded/brushed.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #105280

    Charles
    Participant

    Tried other Dremel bits, not for me. I picked up a husky inside/outside reamer for $12 at home depot and it works ok. Takes a bit of time and it’s manual, but makes a cleaner edge than my Dremel work did 🙂 Good thing there are only so many conduit ends to do or I’d definitely go with the power reamer. I also picked up a 1/2″ ratcheting wrench to do all the 5/16 bolts and it’s night and day over my old wrench combo.

    Slow, but progress 🙂

    I got the banggood 500W special, sounds like not a great choice after more reading due to poor internal design, but with kids, the quite might make it worth it. At worst, I’m not out a ton of $ and I can move it to the 1810 genmitsu CNC if I replace it for the MPCNC.

    I have everything but the board/steppers and T8 leadscrew which I’ll order once Ryan restocks steppers!

    #105879

    Charles
    Participant

    Ryan was, unsurprisingly, right. Go for the $21 powered conduit reamer. The manual one works and has a lifetime guarantee, but I’ve already spent an hour reaming and I’m not done 😐 Trying to keep it cheap fails again; when will I learn? 🙂

    Ordered leadscrew, Rambo full board and the drag knife for stickers 🙂 All parts ordered with those, now it’s just finding the time to build.

    I made more assembly progress, awesome seeing it take shape!

    #105939

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I’ve already spent an hour reaming and I’m not done 😐

    HAHAHA, Imagine how many hours I have saved. I have stacks of prototype conduit parts from over the years.

    #109112

    Charles
    Participant

    Hi all,

    Nearing completion of mechanical build but I have a couple of questions.

    1. I’m using calipers to level the corners (measuring the high pipe, as close to each leg as possible). How close do these heights need to be? I have 3 legs within 0.2mm while the last was 1mm different. I definitely need to get the last one, but I’m guessing the .2mm is fine?
    2.  I did the diagonal measure to screw down and got that to less than 1/8″ difference (my 1m straight edge wasn’t more accurate). This ok? Design suggestion for Ryan, maybe on top of the corner covers, add some kind of mark or notch to measure against? I was jamming the ruler into the screw indents and it didn’t feel accurate/repeatable.

    Next up, lock in height, wire and add belts!

    Thanks,

    Charles.

    #109209

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    1-Depends on what you need for your projects, for Signs, no big deal, done.

    2-I measure from inside corner to outside corner, both sharp points to get a good reading from.

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