June 15, 2019 at 9:43 am #103473June 15, 2019 at 12:38 pm #103482
Looks great. Do the spoil board holes have nuts in them?June 15, 2019 at 12:54 pm #103484
I started them and that’s when I discovered the Machine wasn’t level. So no, I have to figure out how to level the waste board and then drill the Tee nuts base into the board. I can’t figure out the ESTLCAM on how to do this…
Probably really easy but it’s been a week and I can’t seem to figure it out.June 15, 2019 at 1:27 pm #103485
The way I do it is to use Inkscape to create a square the size of my spoil board – I set the document properties to use mm as the units. I then save it as an SVG and import it into Estlcam, selecting the units as mm. In Estlcam, select hole, my square and change it to
pocket. I also change the pocketing strategy to peel and the depth to 1mm. Once I’ve done that, I save the CNC program and transfer it over to my CNC. I setup the LowRider such that the endmill is just above the low point, use “G92 Z0”. I then raise the gantry, move back to the zero position and use “G92 X0 Y0”. Start the router, run the program and watch it work.
Attachments:June 15, 2019 at 3:09 pm #103502
If you are not comfortable with inkscape we have a custom part generator in thingiverse for making the bed block (thanks geodave).
Side note, a level Z is not usually as important as it seems, through cuts go all the way through and carving rarely matter if they differ by a few 0.1mm. PCB’s tend to be so small a bed deviation rarely shows up, I have never leveled a bed. If you chose to do it make sure you do not carve a giant pocket in your machine and leave a lip all the way around, that makes it impossible to mount larger material. I go through spoil boards way to often to spend an hour on each shaving off a few tenths of a mm just to sand it after I cut through.June 15, 2019 at 4:08 pm #103506
I’ll do it once on both sides and be done with it – just for the experience. I bought 1/4″ shank endmills at HD. They cut 1/4″ up to 5/8″. Significant difference than the 1/8″ end mill. The one I’m using is 5/8″s wide to level the board. That should make it go a through the run faster. It’s about learning for me. At 1 mm depth cut I’m not afraid of it going south on me. I decided to use Adobe Illustrator and created the entire piece without a lip/rim. Imported the SVG file and now setting it up in ESTLCAM. Do I need to change the GCODE too?June 15, 2019 at 6:30 pm #103519
RyanKeymasterJune 21, 2019 at 7:58 am #103963
I am going to surface the table under the waste board first. I’m sure that will make life much better going forward.June 21, 2019 at 1:48 pm #104016
I think this is smart because you might not need to surface your waste board at all if it is uniform thickness. Which it should be, unless you were to use old fence posts or some garbage.June 21, 2019 at 9:02 pm #104036
Exactly. I can use any waste board after that and I can level both sides of the waste board with no fear because the table surface matches my machine exactly.
I’m also using foamboard insulation for the enclosure to keep dust inside. I just couldn’t see myself lifting a plywood enclosure alone so I made mine from the foam board and fastened it with Velcro so I have easy access to the entire mpcnc on all sides. While it ain’t pretty, it works great and even absorbs sound.
1 user thanked author for this post.June 22, 2019 at 5:58 am #104043
Why would you surface both sides of the waste board? That doesn’t make sense.June 22, 2019 at 11:57 am #104070
Actually, I’m not surfacing anything but my table top – I’m installing the Tee nuts and countersinking them into the wasteboard. The top side hopefully will have a grid. My mistake.June 22, 2019 at 12:36 pm #104081
Are you using mdf as your table top?June 22, 2019 at 2:32 pm #104091
No, old plywood. That’s why I leveled it. I have to relevel the MDF because it was warped from the humidity in my shop. I’m in Louisiana and it suffocating right now. 110 degrees F with the humidity.June 23, 2019 at 7:23 am #104137
I’ve not tried surfacing plywood yet, that could get exciting! Generally I think the spoil board is the easiest to surface. You’re not messing with the table structure, and it needs resurfaced from time to time anyway. It’s also easier on your end mills.June 23, 2019 at 9:59 am #104148
Well, I had my catch fire moment last night. We had a power brownout, then blackout and then the power came on all while I was leveling my table top. Yup, the computer lost the code and the router did what it wanted. My router zigzagged then buried itself until it stopped. I had stepped away to get a flashlight when the power came back on. I ran back into my shop just in time to a tiny fire starting. The table top was destroyed by the out of control router on a two-minute runaway mode. Scary as Hell and it destroyed my bit too…June 23, 2019 at 10:01 am #104149
FYI, The plywood surfacing was going great until the blackout. I was removing 1/16th of an inch at a time. I guess I need to get an MDF board. CrapJune 23, 2019 at 10:29 am #104158
Well, it’s good to know it works. I’ve seen some folks using osb(subfloor) for furniture. It seems to sand really well. I’ve not tried surfacing it though.June 23, 2019 at 10:43 am #104165
Yikes! I’m glad you were able to stop the catastrophe.June 23, 2019 at 10:44 am #104166
Yeah. I guess I’m officially a CNC’er. I think the machine. catching fire is a rite of passage for newbiesJune 23, 2019 at 10:49 am #104167
Thanks, I was lucky. It was a rolling blackout at the worst possible time. It also ruined a 14 hour 3D printing project an hour before it was finished. GrrrrJune 23, 2019 at 11:05 am #104172
In theory my new printer can survive a power outage as long as the part doesn’t detach from the bed. Haven’t tested that yet.June 23, 2019 at 12:12 pm #104177
1 user thanked author for this post.June 23, 2019 at 12:30 pm #104181
The couple of projects I’ve made with it were fun. It does mill fine.June 23, 2019 at 1:48 pm #104184
I need to design a new router plate for the lowrider. Neet to be able to attach a 4″ vac hose.
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