New Build in Louisiana

New Home Forum Mostly Printed CNC – MPCNC Your Builds – MPCNC New Build in Louisiana

This topic contains 24 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  Barry 3 months, 3 weeks ago.

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  • #103473

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    Just a basic MPCNC, no dust collector or anything fancy. Why mess with it if it works? Less is best.CNCPIC1
    CNCPIC2
    Now I just have to make my wasteboard level.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #103482

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Looks great. Do the spoil board holes have nuts in them?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103484

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    I started them and that’s when I discovered the Machine wasn’t level. So no, I have to figure out how to level the waste board and then drill the Tee nuts base into the board. I can’t figure out the ESTLCAM on how to do this…

    Probably really easy but it’s been a week and I can’t seem to figure it out.

    #103485

    BT
    Participant

    The way I do it is to use Inkscape to create a square the size of my spoil board – I set the document properties to use mm as the units.  I then save it as an SVG and import it into Estlcam, selecting the units as mm.  In Estlcam, select hole, my square and change it to
    pocket.  I also change the pocketing strategy to peel and  the depth to 1mm.  Once I’ve done that, I save the CNC program and transfer it over to my CNC.  I setup the LowRider such that the endmill is just above the low point, use “G92 Z0”.  I then raise the gantry, move back to the zero position and use “G92 X0 Y0”.  Start the router, run the program and watch it work.

    SpoilBoard

    Attachments:
    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103502

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    If you are not comfortable with inkscape we have a custom part generator in thingiverse for making the bed block (thanks geodave).

     

    Side note, a level Z is not usually as important as it seems, through cuts go all the way through and carving rarely matter if they differ by a few 0.1mm. PCB’s tend to be so small a bed deviation rarely shows up, I have never leveled a bed. If you chose to do it make sure you do not carve a giant pocket in your machine and leave a lip all the way around, that makes it impossible to mount larger material. I go through spoil boards way to often to spend an hour on each shaving off a few tenths of a mm just to sand it after I cut through.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103506

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    I’ll do it once on both sides and be done with it – just for the experience. I bought 1/4″ shank endmills at HD. They cut 1/4″ up to 5/8″. Significant difference than the 1/8″ end mill. The one I’m using is 5/8″s wide to level the board. That should make it go a through the run faster. It’s about learning for me. At 1 mm depth cut I’m not afraid of it going south on me. I decided to use Adobe Illustrator and created the entire piece without a lip/rim. Imported the SVG file and now setting it up in ESTLCAM. Do I need to change the GCODE too?

    #103519

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I’ll do it once on both sides and be done with it

    You can not move it once you surface it.

     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103963

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    I am going to surface the table under the waste board first. I’m sure that will make life much better going forward.

    #104016

    Jamie
    Participant

    I think this is smart because you might not need to surface your waste board at all if it is uniform thickness.  Which it should be, unless you were to use old fence posts or some garbage.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #104036

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    Exactly. I can use any waste board after that and I can level both sides of the waste board with no fear because the table surface matches my machine exactly.

    I’m also using foamboard insulation for the enclosure to keep dust inside. I just couldn’t see myself lifting a plywood enclosure alone so I made mine from the foam board and fastened it with Velcro so I have easy access to the entire mpcnc on all sides. While it ain’t pretty,  it works great and even absorbs sound.

     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #104043

    Barry
    Participant

    Why would you surface both sides of the waste board? That doesn’t make sense.

    #104070

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    Actually, I’m not surfacing anything but my table top – I’m installing the Tee nuts and countersinking them into the wasteboard. The top side hopefully will have a grid. My mistake.

    #104081

    Barry
    Participant

    Are you using mdf as your table top?

    #104091

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    No, old plywood. That’s why I leveled it. I have to relevel the MDF because it was warped from the humidity in my shop. I’m in Louisiana and it suffocating right now. 110 degrees F with the humidity.

    #104137

    Barry
    Participant

    I’ve not tried surfacing plywood yet, that could get exciting!  Generally I think the spoil board is the easiest to surface.  You’re not messing with the table structure, and it needs resurfaced from time to time anyway.  It’s also easier on your end mills.

    #104148

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    Well, I had my catch fire moment last night. We had a power brownout, then blackout and then the power came on all while I was leveling my table top. Yup, the computer lost the code and the router did what it wanted. My router zigzagged then buried itself until it stopped. I had stepped away to get a flashlight when the power came back on. I ran back into my shop just in time to a tiny fire starting. The table top was destroyed by the out of control router on a two-minute runaway mode. Scary as Hell and it destroyed my bit too…

    #104149

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    FYI, The plywood surfacing was going great until the blackout. I was removing 1/16th of an inch at a time. I guess I need to get an MDF board. Crap

    #104158

    Barry
    Participant

    Well, it’s good to know it works.  I’ve seen some folks using osb(subfloor) for furniture.  It seems to sand really well.  I’ve not tried surfacing it though.

    #104165

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Yikes! I’m glad you were able to stop the catastrophe.

    #104166

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    Yeah.  I guess I’m officially a CNC’er. I think the machine. catching fire is a rite of passage for newbies

    #104167

    Mike Atencio
    Participant

    Thanks, I was lucky. It was a rolling blackout at the worst possible time. It also ruined a 14 hour 3D printing project an hour before it was finished.  Grrrr

    #104172

    Barry
    Participant

    In theory my new printer can survive a power outage as long as the part doesn’t detach from the bed.  Haven’t tested that yet.

    #104177

    Barry
    Participant

    Osb surfaces pretty good!  It does shoot chips across the room though, so eyepro is mandatory. 20190623_151112

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #104181

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The couple of projects I’ve made with it were fun. It does mill fine.

    #104184

    Barry
    Participant

    I need to design a new router plate for the lowrider.  Neet to be able to attach a 4″ vac hose.

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