New Build in Frisco TX

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This topic contains 94 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by  kd2018 4 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 95 total)
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  • #78358

    kd2018
    Participant

    Maybe a little premature to be posting already but… it has begun! I’m excited.

     

     

    I’m also new to 3d printing as well… Turns out masking tape was a bad idea. I’ll try hairspray for the next piece.

     

    I’ll be printing on a CR-10 (bowden tube style) in Hatchbox PLA. I’ve settled on Cura as my slicer for now. Running 0.2 layer height and 0.5 extrusion width, 3 walls and top/bottom, linear infill pattern, 40 mm/s print speed, 3.5mm retraction @ 40mm/s (microswiss hotend). Any comments or suggestions on these settings let me know!

    #78360

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Welcome!

    There is something specific in the brand name blue tape that works better than plain brown, and the hairspray is a similar thing, it has to be a specific type.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #78363

    kd2018
    Participant

    I didn’t know that about the tape. This roll of tape actually came with the printer, all Chinese lettering and everything. The PLA sticks really well, too well. With as much surface area as this piece had on the build plate it’s just a PITA to get the tape off the part.

    Based on my what I’ve read I’ll be trying some Aqua Net hairspray in the purple can.

    #78366

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That tape probably has the right stuff in it. If it sticks too well, you can soak it in alcohol in a tupperware and it will dissolve enough you can rub it off.

    #78371

    kd2018
    Participant

    Would the PLA not react to the alcohol? I thought I read people use it to chemically smooth their prints.

    #78382

    Jason
    Participant

    How big it’s your printer.

    #78385

    kd2018
    Participant

    CR-10 Mini -> Build volume: 300x220x300mm (11.8×8.66×11.8 in.)

    #78386

    David Walling
    Participant

    Welcome from the small town of Wylie.

    I use the cheap spray hairspray and it works well. I also like to use glue sticks. I never had luck with masking tape either.

    #78393

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Would the PLA not react to the alcohol? I thought I read people use it to chemically smooth their prints.

    That’s acetone, and ABS. isopropal alcohol doesn’t affect it.

    #78404

    kd2018
    Participant

    Screw it! I’m barebacking it

    #78518

    kd2018
    Participant

    I have to say there is something very satisfying about the fit of the conduit here. Not snug but zero play (that I can tell at the moment anyway)

     

    That leads me to a question though: is this fit on the conduit perhaps *supposed* to be a little snug at first to account for any kind of break in?

    #78531

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I would say don’t over think it. If it doesn’t rattle with no tension on the tension bolt you are perfect.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #78616

    Bruh
    Participant

    I didn’t know that about the tape. This roll of tape actually came with the printer, all Chinese lettering and everything. The PLA sticks really well, too well. With as much surface area as this piece had on the build plate it’s just a PITA to get the tape off the part.

    Based on my what I’ve read I’ll be trying some Aqua Net hairspray in the purple can.

    I have the same issue with blue tape. I use a sharpened spackle/putty knife to remove my prints. Carefully work the knife under a corner and you can lever the print up until it pops off.

     

    Are you using the cura that comes bundled with repetier host by chance? If so it’s probably best to ditch the built in version before you get too invested in fine tuning. I ended up needing to use a standalone version of cura newer than what repetier ships with to fix some of my print issues. (Extra priming after retracts, specifically) I was having a hell of a time chasing under extrusion problems. I used a bottom of the barrel ANET printer though. YMMV

    #78657

    Jason
    Participant

    what size is your pipe?

     

    #78689

    kd2018
    Participant

    I didn’t know that about the tape. This roll of tape actually came with the printer, all Chinese lettering and everything. The PLA sticks really well, too well. With as much surface area as this piece had on the build plate it’s just a PITA to get the tape off the part.

    Based on my what I’ve read I’ll be trying some Aqua Net hairspray in the purple can.

    I have the same issue with blue tape. I use a sharpened spackle/putty knife to remove my prints. Carefully work the knife under a corner and you can lever the print up until it pops off.

    Are you using the cura that comes bundled with repetier host by chance? If so it’s probably best to ditch the built in version before you get too invested in fine tuning. I ended up needing to use a standalone version of cura newer than what repetier ships with to fix some of my print issues. (Extra priming after retracts, specifically) I was having a hell of a time chasing under extrusion problems. I used a bottom of the barrel ANET printer though. YMMV

    I’m using Cura 3.6 from the Cura website. I’m not having any slicer issues as far as I know. I was using Slic3r but had better prints with Cura for a few non mpcnc prints I was doing so I’m just rolling with it.

    #78690

    kd2018
    Participant

    what size is your pipe?

    3/4″ electrical conduit from the big orange store.

    #78972

    kd2018
    Participant

    @Ryan, can you tell me the difference between the roller and rollerM parts? I can see one difference in the shape of the inner bearing “wheel well” but I can’t figure out how they’re functionally different.

    #78974

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Ryan uses M for mirrored. It’s for the other side, probably.

    #78976

    kd2018
    Participant

    I could see they were just mirrored but it didn’t even click that’s what the ‘M’ was for *face palm*!

    But I’m still wondering if they are functionally different? They appeared interchangable at first glance.

    #78979

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    IDK, Ryan’s pretty serious about reducing part counts (including part types), so I’m sure there’s some reason. I guess we’ll have to wait until Ryan responds.

    #78985

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I have it in the FAQ’s.

    Mirror parts- Some printers can’t do low overhang angles well or don’t print well in general, so there is a mirrored version of the rollers.The mirrored version is to prevent the gantry from twisting with cruddy prints. If the angle is on the same side of the rail there is no twist, if it is on opposite sides there is 2x’s the twist (print error). The mirrored version of other parts is for functionality, corner top and bottom. Other parts are mirrored for build looks and symmetry, feet, locks.

    4 users thanked author for this post.
    #78999

    kd2018
    Participant

    Ahhh. That’s a clever trick, I will definitely have to remember that one.

    #79002

    Heath
    Participant

    If you have a glass print surface, adding tape is just adding complication.  A lot of people print to bare glass with no adhesive help.  But, the glass does have to be super clean.  Vigorously wiped with alcohol between every print squeeky clean – no previous print residue, no finger smudges, etc.  I personally haven’t had much luck printing to just bare glass with anything other than TPU, and then only if I’m printing only one part at a time.

    Some people prefer glue stick (the kind that goes on purple and dries clear).  Some people prefer hair spray.  Both work great.  Play with each and see which you prefer.  I personally prefer hair spray.  Take the glass off, turn and step away from the printer, a quick spritz of the hair spray on the glass, then set it back in place.  Takes all of 3 seconds.  I’ve seen some YouTube videos where people spray a thick layer on the glass, then let that dry, then add another thick layer, and repeating that using almost a whole can of hair spray.  That’s WAY too much.  You don’t need much of it at all.  You don’t need a thick buildup on the glass, just enough for the filament to have something to grab on to.  I have two printers going just about all the time and I may go through 3 cans a year at most.  If you’re getting hair spray everywhere, you’re using too much.  But, it does have to be the right hair spray.  Not just any spray will work.  Aqua Net is recommended because it has the right ingredients and is cheap.  If you don’t have Aqua Net locally, check the ingredients for some combination of vinyl and acrylates.  In Aqua Net this shows up as “VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer.”  The other brand I frequently use, Suave Max Hold, has the exact same ingredient list as Aqua Net and also works great.  The purple glue sticks are PVA glue – Poly Vinyl Acrylate – which is why it also works.

    Cleanup is easy – just take the glass to the sink and rinse it off.  Part removal is also easy.  Just give it a bump with the handle of your paint scraper that you’ve been using.  Or wedge the sharp end under it if necessary.  Or, just let it cool down and it will be loose.  Or if you’re in a rush and it’s being stubborn, set the glass with the part still attached in the freezer for a minute.  The part will be loose when you take it out.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #79004

    kd2018
    Participant

    Thanks for that information! That should be in the instruction booklet of every new printer.

    I’ve found the tape to work really well for adhesion, just not so much for release.

    Though I’ve been happily using hairspray and it’s worked great so far. To avoid over spray and to avoid having to remove the glass and redo any bed leveling I’ve been just spraying the hair spray into its’ lid and then pouring it out on the glass. Give it a quick spread with the putty knife and I’m good to go.

    #79171

    kd2018
    Participant

    These nuts on the end of the XYZ piece are a real pain in the ass!

     

    I figured it out though

    #79172

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Worth it, promise. That stupid little bit of extra plastic got rid of the weak point the whole center assembly had.

    #79243

    Jason
    Participant

    Worth it, promise. That stupid little bit of extra plastic got rid of the weak point the whole center assembly had.

    Why did you just fill it in cad and cut out just for the nut to slide in??

    #79245

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    You only need it at a 45 and these nut slots are actually made to fit 8mm locknuts, and accommodate the 5/16″. Not easy to make it fit everywhere without making a piece for every hardware size.

    #79247

    Barry
    Participant

    Worth it, promise. That stupid little bit of extra plastic got rid of the weak point the whole center assembly had.

    Why did you just fill it in cad and cut out just for the nut to slide in??

    Nut tolerances are +- a bit.

    #79470

    kd2018
    Participant

    Can anyone tell me the designed mounting hole spacing on the Foot_2018 (size C) ? I havn’t figured out how to pull dimensions off STL’s yet…

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