- September 24, 2017 at 11:09 am #44622
Yeah, that looks like it should work. What did you wire up?
D9+ should be instead of VDD and D9- should be at ‘2’ and you don’t wire up the J1. I’m not sure about the resistor values, it would depend on the spec sheet of the transistor. You should test the voltage at ‘1’ before you dismiss this. With different S values.
If this doesn’t work, I have another idea. Just wire the laser white to D9- and put the 4.7kOhm between D9+ and D9-. The logic will be inverted, so S255 would turn it off, and S0 would turn it on. But basically, you’d be pulling the D9- up to 12V when it’s “off” (through the resistor) and it will be 0V when it’s “on”, which is the opposite of what the white wire expects.September 24, 2017 at 12:33 pm #44623
Thanks for the reply
I wired up exactly as you said skipping the Jumper and wiring VDD to D9+ and D9- to the number 2 point.
I tried your idea with the 4.7kOhmn between D9+ and D9- and laser white to D9- unfortunately regardless of what I set the M106 command to the laser never came on. I just don’t think the TTL driver is working on the laser.
To be honest I wouldn’t buy another L-Cheapo laser from Endurance the build quality of the driver is terrible, half the connections had come off in delivery, had to solder the laser diode back on as its connections had come of the board.
Just wired the laser back up normally and at least it still works with a basic on and off, so it can still cut things.September 24, 2017 at 12:34 pm #44624
Ok, well, it was worth a try.September 24, 2017 at 12:36 pm #44625
Wait, didn’t you say it worked with the 5V, just not as powerful? I wonder if it still works like that, or if something got broken.September 24, 2017 at 12:46 pm #44626
The 5v side was exactly the same, laser would come on and off but no variation in intensity.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions Jeffeb3. I am in contact with the manufacturer and they are also asking me to try things, they just had me upload pictures of the driver board to them.September 25, 2017 at 8:40 am #44696
Done my first CNC test cut today, took me ages to work out Estlcam, it was a bit of a pain but I got the hang of it.
My Spindle is the Dremel 3000 with chuck instead of collet, and well it cuts but as Ryan warned me, the experiences with the Dremel isn’t great, with the chuck I don’t get collet wobble at first unfortunately after a while the chuck just loosens itself off then its nothing but trouble, doesn’t matter how much I tighten the chuck it always comes loose, another really bad thing about the Dremel is its so noisy when on high speed, is the spindle that everyone is using are they really noisy too?
This project has been nothing but trouble for me, actually let me expand on that, the CNC machine itself works great, it was easy to build, the electronics work great (apart from user error), Ryan’s update for Dual End Stops is awesome and the CNC gantry works perfectly, the issues I am having is with my already owned Laser and Dremel, so MPCNC ++++, my atachments, terrible, haha.September 25, 2017 at 8:48 am #44698
That’s all part of the fun, though, right?
To answer your question, the DeWalt DW660 is very noisy, but so is the shop vac, and so is the bit when it’s chewing through the material. There’s only so quiet you can get, but the Chinese CNC spindles are a lot quieter, which gives an impression of quality, at least. The 660 is big bang for the watt, and quality in general. If you want something that just works, the 660 does that, and it’s not complicated.September 25, 2017 at 9:10 am #44705
Had a look for the DeWalt DW660 and just cant seem to source it in the UK.September 26, 2017 at 2:19 am #44742
Just come across the issue Krzysztof has / had with the Z Axis using the dual endstops, if I set the origin of the job to the top of the work piece then the z never moves down as the dual endstop program doesn’t allow it to go below the 0 point, however if I setup the job using the workbed as the zero point then I have no issues, as long as I program the z correctly in the cutting paths.
My Dremel works great on the HD foam and as you said it makes testing so much better as I don’t have to worry about much getting destroyed in the process (I didn’t have any HD foam at hand but spare gym matts work great).
Going to look at Krzysztof post again to see how he sorted out his Z.September 26, 2017 at 4:28 am #44744
I’m sorry. He gave me the edits he made, and I’ve been busy. I didn’t get them organized into the dual endstops code.
He just commented out two lines:September 26, 2017 at 6:33 am #44747
Nice easy changes and I actually understand what they are doing, lolSeptember 26, 2017 at 8:34 am #44753
I have to look at it when I get back. I swear you can just turn it off for one axis, but I known you can turn it off for all axis 100%.
I saw that edit and I don’t think hardcoding it is a good idea. Much better to just allow negative movements on all axis and just be careful not to do it on x and y.September 26, 2017 at 11:18 am #44762
I think it is safer to just comment out line 786 in configuration.h for now. If you are using Dual endstops you are using work offsets so you should never go below X&Y zero so there should be no bad side effects.
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPSSeptember 28, 2017 at 10:50 am #44891
I think I have my MPCNC running pretty well now, still only cutting HD Foam at the moment until I am 100% happy with using Estlcam, also getting a replacement laser sent from my supplier as we think its a faulty driver. One thing I have found out is I need to put angle brackets on each side of my table legs as my table gets a little wobbly.
One of my next projects is getting better quality 3D prints and was going to upgrade my existing printer, but I am looking for much higher quality than I can get out of my FDM printer so was thinking about using the MPCNC techniques to build an SLA printer. I already have an old 1080P DLP projector and have spoken to a resin company who think my projector will be fine with there resin. Also only 1 axis to worry about and making it top down, I also all ready have all the electronics lying around as I bought extra when doing this project. So my only extra cost would be a Glass Vat and Resin.
Just trying to get a design done now, so will update as I go along.September 28, 2017 at 11:29 am #44895
Cool. Is the resin expensive? Is there a good way to save the stuff you don’t use (I know very little about SLA). Pretty cool though.September 28, 2017 at 11:57 am #44898
The resin is very expensive, 3 to 4 times the price of Cheap PLA fillament at a minimum.
As long as the Resin isn’t exposed to mass UV light that will cure it, it should be good to put back into a light sensitive container.
Although cost per print is higher, the quality of the print is also amazing, talking about detail in the micron level.October 1, 2017 at 9:43 am #45138
Has anyone added a 4th axis to the MPCNC, I know using the dual end stops it won’t be possible as only 5 stepper are supported on the Ramps 1.4, but would be cool to know that further down the line I could add a CNC Lathe for turning small items such as barrels and turrets for scale battleship models, hopefully wood and aluminium.
The MPCNC would then become my all in one model making machine.October 1, 2017 at 9:53 am #45139
When you are using 5 axis you can disconnect one of the axis becose you just need one axis x or y and ZOctober 1, 2017 at 12:21 pm #45153
Yes, there is at least one big post about 4th axis. They were replacing the Y axis and just making the piece parallel to the x.
There are a few different mounts. I think leo69 got the furthest.October 22, 2017 at 10:31 pm #46446
Not been on in a while and haven’t done much on my CNC, work getting in the way.
Anyone from the UK found a good spindle to use instead of the Dewalt?
Also what about Micro end mills in the 0.5 – 1mm diameter range?
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