March 17, 2018 at 4:32 pm #55531
I updated the diameter to 3.175.
Where do I add the G92 X0 Y0 Z0 command at in the gcode? Do I need to remove any these other G90 or G91 commands? I’m just plunging down about 3/8″ to and 1/2″ into the plywood after I hit start.
Here is the first part of the gcode:
;Project Dragon 3.175 diameter
;Created by Estlcam version 10 build 11.015
;Machining time about 00:05:40 hours
G00 X0.0000 Y0.0000 Z0.0000 F2100
G00 Z5.0000 F480
;No. 1: Engraving 1
G00 X3.2496 Y30.9301 F2100
G00 Z0.5000 F480
G01 Z-1.0000 F180 S24000
G03 X6.0391 Y30.1713 I5.0403 J13.0219 F480
G01 X6.1107 Y30.1303
G02 X6.0943 Y30.0534 I-0.0108 J-0.0379
G01 X5.9727 Y29.9850
G01 X5.5728 Y29.7844
G01 X5.1728 Y29.5835
G01 X5.0512 Y29.5145
G01 X5.0065 Y29.4800
G01 X5.0168 Y29.4590
BrandonMarch 17, 2018 at 4:59 pm #55532
You are missing a few setting in estlcam, double check against these.
As for the code, there is a specific tab for beginning gcode, or you can manually add it before the first g00 command.March 18, 2018 at 5:06 pm #55587
I think part of my issue with Repetier Host is that when I move Z 10 mm it moves 57 mm.
Do these settings look right?
Attachments:March 18, 2018 at 5:31 pm #55593
The settings you are showing are for a piece of allthread, sounds like you have a T8 for your Z axis. You need the other firmware.March 18, 2018 at 5:46 pm #55599
Oh… I have since upgraded to the T8 for the Z axis. I probably still have the allthread firmware? Will I need to use the Arduino software to flash the firmware on the Ramps?March 18, 2018 at 6:44 pm #55607
Oh… I have since upgraded to the T8 for the Z axis. I probably still have the allthread firmware? Will I need to use the Arduino software to flash the firmware on the Ramps?
Yep.March 19, 2018 at 6:44 pm #55691
c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\bin\../lib/gcc/avr/4.9.2/../../../../avr/bin/ar.exe: unable to rename ‘core\core.a’; reason: File exists
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560.
Sketch uses 104098 bytes (40%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253952 bytes.
Global variables use 4633 bytes (56%) of dynamic memory, leaving 3559 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8192 bytes.March 19, 2018 at 6:56 pm #55692
Second time around it worked.March 19, 2018 at 7:38 pm #55697
Yea, the arduino software is funky sometimes.March 20, 2018 at 6:34 pm #55794
My Z axis is still moving the same amount of distance, about 1/4″ per 1 mm in Repetier Host. Do I need to try flashing the software again?March 20, 2018 at 7:13 pm #55796
I think I’m dealing with a steps/mm issue in the firmware. When I set Z to 200 it was much closer to 1/4″ per 10 mm’s.March 20, 2018 at 8:41 pm #55808
Does this look about right?
Attachments:March 20, 2018 at 10:46 pm #55810
I finally cut something… This is going to be so much fun!! Thanks Ryan!!!
Attachments:March 20, 2018 at 11:04 pm #55812
You shouldn’t need to change the steps per mm on your T8, just make sure you downloaded and flashed the firmware package ending in “T8”March 20, 2018 at 11:10 pm #55816
I’ve flashed that firmware 3 times now and get the same results.
The Z axis is supposed to be 1/32 microstepping right?March 21, 2018 at 7:48 am #55839
Can you show that eeprom page again, now that you have flashed. Lets make sure it stuck. You are using a ramps board, purple drv8825 drivers, and a T8 correct?March 21, 2018 at 7:13 pm #55921
Can you show that eeprom page again, now that you have flashed. Lets make sure it stuck. You are using a ramps board, purple drv8825 drivers, and a T8 correct?
Here is the eeprom page. I do have the same parts you mentioned.
Attachments:March 21, 2018 at 10:22 pm #55937
Pretty sure your Zsteps should bee 400 not 300.March 21, 2018 at 10:30 pm #55939
With it set to 300 when I put in the command to move the Z axis 25.4mm it actually moved one inch. If I remember right 400 moved more than an inch so that’s why I set it to 300. If it works don’t fix it or?March 21, 2018 at 10:51 pm #55944
If it works don’t fix it or?
300 is a really odd number though, something is fishy but if it works it works.March 31, 2018 at 3:53 pm #56749
What would be fun to test my MPCNC? Should I use the mill end or flute which is very sharp by the way.
When should I use the mill end vs the flute? How deep should I cut text with the flute?
I’m using pine wood.March 31, 2018 at 4:15 pm #56753
So the regular flat one is a classic endmill, there are also ball, bull and tapered. The pointy one is a V-bit. Flutes are the number of twists/cutting surfaces. So if you got them from me the V-bit is a 2 flute, I sell single and dual flute regular endmills (single is best for us).
Regular endmills do it all, pockets and through cutting with not sharp inside corners (everything with have a radius equal to your bit’s). V-bits are good for carved out pockets and have the ability to do sharp corners. To go super generic, v-bits are for lettering and details in a sign (for example), endmills are used for most work, Ball ends are really good for 3D carving organic shapes.
Fun….an STL carving is pretty interesting to watch, use a low stepover 2-5% for the finishing and stick to .5-.75″ deep.
1 user thanked author for this post.April 15, 2018 at 11:13 am #57939
Are these two tools the same in Estlcam?
Both of these were purchased through the shop.
Attachments:April 15, 2018 at 11:20 am #57942
Not sure what you are asking, the settings look the same.
A 1″ step down is very not recommended. I know it is painful for some but for making small movements Millimeter will really make things easier to visualize. As well as metric feedrates. 8mm/s is easier to picture than18.9in/min since most of our moves are only a few mm at a time.April 15, 2018 at 11:38 am #57947
Do I use the same settings for the v-bit as I do the end mill?
I had that set to 1 mm on the production pc. Do these look like the correct settings or should I adjust it some?
This is what I’m trying to cut. My father in law is battling cancer for the second time and is going through chemo. I’d like to cut this and do some type of finishing to it. I think I’ve see where you blacken the wording with a torch and then sand it and put some type of covering on it.
If I can actually get it to cut, I need to figure out how to cut the actual moon shape out.
Attachments:April 15, 2018 at 1:00 pm #57961
The tool settings should be larger, you are missing the settings for the vbit. You need to update to the version ten that Estlcam has linked (I haven’t used 11 yet). The last setting is Vbit angle.June 2, 2018 at 9:49 pm #60955
What do you think? When choosing engraving, what side of the line should I choose? Does it very depending on the part?
I think this was 3/4″ cut over all.
Attachments:June 2, 2018 at 9:58 pm #60959
That actually looks good.
When engraving you can pocket as well…at least in Estlcam. So for a pocket you choose inside and a larger width. Play with it and look at the output as the display screen is not representative of the actual cut path.June 2, 2018 at 9:59 pm #60960
But yes, inside or outside depends on the design, positive or negative.June 3, 2018 at 5:07 pm #60997
I think I might be getting the hang of it. I wanted to darken the cuts and sand down the board and clear coat it but I decided it looks “different” and left it be.
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