My first "useful" thing made with my mpcnc

New Home Forum Things You Have Made My first "useful" thing made with my mpcnc

This topic contains 21 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by  Al Quentin 8 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 22 posts - 1 through 22 (of 22 total)
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  • #22419

    Martin DB
    Participant

    During this days I was trying different CAM softwares, mill bits, materials, just to learn how to use my mpcnc.

    Finally, I’ve made some acrylic carved signs for my daughters and my wife’s store.

    One of the sign base (the one in the midle) it’s a 2.5 milling in MDF. The other 2 bases are printed prototypes.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #22425

    Brian
    Participant

    Looks terrific Martin

    #22428

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Those do look perfect. Super nice.

    #22431

    Martin DB
    Participant

    Thanks guys!

    #26204

    RAGII
    Participant

    Martin,

    If you don’t mind me asking, what did you use for a bit, feed rate, and spindle RPM’s? I have been trying to experiment with different bits to cut some plexi and am not having success. I have tried fluted bits and diamond bits. Slow and fast feed rates and various RPM’s (upto 10,000 as that is the max on my Dremel).

    Thanks,

    Rob

    #26220

    Martin DB
    Participant

    Ragii, plexi (in Argentina we call acrylic) is not easy to cut. These signs where cutted with 1/8″ 2 flutes carbide end mill, about 15k rpm and 480 mm/min in one pass (DOC about 2.6 mm).
    If you work with estlcam, I recomend you to try trochoidal cut for this material.

    Engrave was done with v shape bit, same rpm, 720 mm/min feed rate.

    #26357

    Mic Vee
    Participant

    Martin, If you have a moment, can you take a screen cap of your estlcam tool settings that you used? I’m having a hard time with trochoidal, and I don’t know where to begin.

    I’m also cutting acrylic. Your cuts look amazing! Did you have to sand the edges, or did it turn out smooth?

    #26364

    Martin DB
    Participant

    Mic this cut was straight cut, not trochoidal. I use fusion, no estlcam. No sand or any kind of post process, just the cut. Please see my low feedrate.
    If you go to slow in feedrate or to high in rpm, acrylic will melt.

    #26367

    Mic Vee
    Participant

    Okay, thanks. I’m going to try with your settings and see if my cut improves. I really appreciate the feedback!

    #50322

    Al Quentin
    Participant

    During this days I was trying different CAM softwares, mill bits, materials, just to learn how to use my mpcnc. Finally, I’ve made some acrylic carved signs for my daughters and my wife’s store. One of the sign base (the one in the midle) it’s a 2.5 milling in MDF. The other 2 bases are printed prototypes.

    Your work inspired me to give the edge lit stuff a try. It was obvious from my first attempt that my depth of cut wasn’t consistent, and I needed to surface my spoilboard.


    Picked up a cheap Harbor Freight (redundant?) Dial Indicator and needed a mount compatible with my flat faced universal mount:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1697287

    Attached (hopefully) is the zipped .stl for the indicator attachment.


    #50504

    Al Quentin
    Participant

    Using my dial indicator mount, I got spoil board flat to about +/- .0025″ (according to the cheap HF indicator). Pretty sure I can improve that, but not sure it’s worth it-  given material changes due to temp & humidity. Will probably just resurface occasionally as necessary.  Results are noticeably better, to my eye.  Used a Dremel model 395 w/225 flex shaft attachment, and #640 bit – because I had them. If I hadn’t damaged my #9909 bit, I think it would have been better.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #51160

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Dude! How the heck did I not see this post!!!!!! Just yesterday I was talking to a gentleman about this milled edge lit acrylic.

    That is one sexy sign right there! If you ever set back up to make more and want to sell me one or some of the parts I’m in!

    #52016

    Al Quentin
    Participant

    Dude! How the heck did I not see this post!!!!!! Just yesterday I was talking to a gentleman about this milled edge lit acrylic. That is one sexy sign right there! If you ever set back up to make more and want to sell me one or some of the parts I’m in!

    E-Mail me an address to send it to.

    Used a 4.125″ square of clear acrylic ($1.03 @ Tap Plastics), although I’d recommend Tap’s clear GP cast acrylic ($1.50) as it has a higher melting point and machines better.  With the cheaper stuff, if the speed and DOC wasn’t perfect, I’ve needed to chase some of the engraved lines.

    Although not as bright as it would be with a 12v adapter, I used a 6 LED section of the following with a 9V battery for lighting the edge:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Zipped files for a version of the holder attached – hopefully.

     

     

     

     

    Attachments:
    1. EL-Base-Caps.zip
    #52867

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I love it! I have it wired up so you can run a 12v power supply or a 9V. Super cool project.

    This is too much fun, I think you should sell some kits. LED Strip, 9v connector, switch, and a piece of acrylic? I think this is a kick ass project. I don’t know the best way to do it but etsy or ebay, (or here if you want) and we can link it here with a little write up? Any cnc machine would work people can print there own cases or sell them as an extra cost? Maybe a fun little side. I get emails all the time for project ideas and this is a great one. People could even mill up there own wooden base. We need more of this stuff around here.

    Super cool. I love it.

    #52882

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That is great. I have been meaning to make a sign that says, “on air” for my wife to put in her desk at work. She doesn’t run a podcast or anything. She just wants people to stop bothering her when she’s busy. 🙂

    #52987

    Johnny
    Participant

    That looks really cool. I was looking at the pieces of acrylic this weekend on the web considering getting a few. I would really like to see of you can layer multiple pieces on top of each other with different colors to get a neon light effect. I would love to reproduce my avatar like this.

    #52989

    SquidPlan
    Participant

    All those signs are cool.  I need one that says “Hey!” for when it’s time to get my son’s attention and he’s got his headphones on and not watching his phone.  I could plug it into the remote switch I have from my house alarm.  🙂

    #52990

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    No no no…Just turn off the router, no internet, instant attention.

    #52991

    Kevin Lopez
    Participant

    Ooooo I gotta get one for my “company” This kind of branding is supreme level.

    #52992

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Al sent afresh piece of acrylic, so know I have to try my own. It is pretty cool looking, you could easily do RGB if you wanted to get fancy.

    It made me think of a cool kids sign. RGB with three knobs controlling the three colors so they could kinda get a feel for how colors mix and make other colors, with there name on it or something.

    #56303

    Al Quentin
    Participant

    I’ve thought about the RGB possibilities too. Started simple with a length of RGB strip LEDs and a SP3T switch to select Red, Green, or Blue.



    To get some dynamic display options I got this kit:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075H1TVFH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Worked fine, but I wanted something with an RF remote that was small enough to mount inside my base. Ended up using these:

    https://www.jacobsparts.com/items/LED-DIMMER-11/
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEOB4EI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Works well.

    On the other hand, getting a consistently clean cut in acrylic has proved challenging. It requires a well surfaced spoil board, and well dialed-in tool and travel speeds. I’ve wanted to try drag engraving, but couldn’t justify the ~$170 for one of the spring loaded diamond bits commonly used. So, I bought a Dremel diamond bit to play with:

    https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-9929-Engraver-Diamond-Point/dp/B00004UDJU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522012213&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+9929

    It’s meant for their vibratory engraver, but seemed a good candidate for drag engraving. For me, it’s proven more consistent for fine line engraving than a rotating bit.

    The last 1/4″ or so of the bit tapers towards the point, so making the bit mount exit hole smaller than the bit shaft diameter allows the point to protrude, yet be captured. A spring and set screw behind the bit compensates for an imperfectly leveled engraving surface. I intended the set screw to run through a threaded insert, but screwed up the prototype and put the insert in without installing the bit and spring (Ever soldered a wired connection and forget to slip heatshrink on first? Kinda like that). I drilled out the 6-32 insert, and then just tapped for an 8-32 set screw – works, but I’ll use an insert if I make another.


    FWIW – With sufficient infill, I’ve found threaded inserts useful in situations where a nut pocket isn’t ideal. I have inserts in my main tool mount plate, and they’ve worked great so far – no pushed out nuts or three handed tool changes req’d.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #56319

    Al Quentin
    Participant

    Sorry, meant to attach the zipped .stl, not the gcode.

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