- September 16, 2017 at 3:00 pm #43981
Tried to be witty so I put the color in the title, because there’s already 50 topics titled “My MPCNC” :).
Pictures/Videos first, because I know what people want:
Working Dimension: 580 x 280 mm x 125 mm
Printed parts: 25mm EU-version
Corner blocks: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1459025
Tool mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1652878
Pipes: 25mm x 1.2mm polished steel
Router: Katsu 101748, 710w
First things first. I liked the look of the corner blocks more then the original, so I printed these. Filament is yellow and black PETG. The pictures can’t tell, but the yellow is really bright and flashy, I love this color and it’s pretty much the standard filament I use for everything I print.
The printing overall took about 3-4 weeks (non-stop printing) with 50 % infill, linear pattern (started with honeycomb but linear is much faster, probably same rigidity imho). Turned out my acceleration was pretty slow/down, so more/faster acceleration, and faster infill speed would have speed up things alot.
The last pictures shows a 5mm transparent acrylic, not milled but lasercutted, had no other picture, actually just wanted to show the table top and the screw sleeves, so don’t mind the bee!
For the machine I went with allen/socket screws, except for a couple places because where there is not enough room.
As for software I used the firmware by estlcam (just flash it and set & forget). Drawing so far with libreCAD, sometimes freeCAD. Although I specifically bought CorelDraw to vectorize, Bitmaps and other graphics I do vectorize only with inkscape right now (into DXF), so both my co2 lasercutter and estlcam can read it.
I like to watch how everything goes on a job, so I put a 5mm acrylic sheet in front of the machine, and a scrap wood panel to the left side for safety reasons (both quickly removable). I’m actually suprised I never saw anything like this at other MPCNC so far. After watching the “fail CNC compilation” youtube video someone posted in these forums this week, I wouldn’t want to operate the machine without the acrylic again.
For the table top I used about 70 pieces M6 screw thread sleeves (not sure about the correct word for these things), in 24mm length (most I could get). I was told not use those sleeves, especially with layered wood like my tabletop. The layers could seperate again if you screw your workpiece down with too much force, they said. Granted the 24mm length of my thread sleeves, turns out this will be sufficient for my workbench, even when screwing down the workpieces super strong, I don’t think the sleeves will ever pop out again. Neither I think the M6 threads will wear out.
Had to drill the 9mm holes for the sleeves by hand tho, because the router/Z-axis couldn’t go deep enough, this took an hour or two.
When screwing the (printed) parts together 2-4 pieces cracked, but I was’t in the mood to reprint them so I still gave it a shot. So far it looks like those cracks do not matter at all, first milling jobs (soft/medium wood and 3mm Aluminium) turned out suprisingly good.
The video shows a ~30x100mm Alu plate, cutting out a 20×50 mm piece. Bit: cheap china 2 flute, 6mm. RPM: not sure, router is set to “4” out of 6 levels, 20mm/s for X and Y, 15mm/s for Z. Just tried anything and worked flawless.
The milled out piece measures 20.00-20.05 in width and 50.03-50.11 length (depending where I measure with my cheap china caliper), without debur/polish of the milled edges. So this is easily within my personal set goal of 0.1mm accuracy, if not 0.05mm!
Universal safety switch for the router (the routers On/Off switch is on its back, depending on Z-height I can’t reach it)
Extending/rewiring the stepper cables
Embed RAMPS board (e. g. under the table; theres no need to have it in sight)
Vacuum + dust shoe
Figure out how to actually draw with estlcam (taping a pen to the tool mount)
Bits. Alot more bits 🙂
1 user thanked author for this post.September 16, 2017 at 8:21 pm #43995
Nice! For my ZenXYs I’m using button head socket screws. They have quite a bit lower profile.September 23, 2017 at 9:00 am #44526
Finished spoil board today and lasered some clamps out of 5mm cast clear acrylic to get things started.November 5, 2017 at 8:08 am #47431
Do you have a link for the “screw sleeves”? I’ve been trying to figure out how I’ll clamp pieces to my board so they won’t fly off when the spindle cuts them.November 5, 2017 at 8:57 am #47436
Clamps work well, but aren’t required. Screwing through the material into the spoil works pretty well. Putting blue tape on the workpiece and the spoil board and then using super glue to glue the tape together works for smaller things. Clamps like these are good too though.
1 user thanked author for this post.November 23, 2017 at 3:17 am #48343
Wouldn’t use them again though. If you insert a screw really tight, the RAMPA thingy comes out (with the screw still in) when unscrewed. Next time I’d go with a basic T-profile table. https://www.google.de/search?q=t+nutenplatte&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiD3eyaydTXAhVMKuwKHUYzDEAQ_AUICygC&biw=1920&bih=1107
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