My Adventures with the MPCNC

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This topic contains 76 replies, has 13 voices, and was last updated by  Dave B. 1 year, 3 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 31 through 60 (of 77 total)
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  • #21286

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Looks good.

    As for the issues it could be a few things, nothing major.
    Stepover, I use 45% for roughing, looks like you might have went higher? You really only want to engage half of the cutter into the material. This is where climb vs conventional cutting comes in.

    Perpendicular tool. I made a little perpendicularity tool on thingiverse to check if your tool is reasonably “normal to” your work surface. If it isn’t I usually just put a layer of tape or two at the mount to adjust. This can cause your tool to cut at an angle and is usually more pronounced in one direction more than the other.

    If I am wrong on both of those it is just a feed and speed thing.

    Your cuts are obviously very good as is and a few very minor tweaks will take it to the next level.

    #21300

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Mark this one solved…

    I was at 40% stepover and running at 15mm/s with 1mm depth cuts. I slowed it down with the LCD knob to 70% FR but it kept doing it so bumped back up to 100%…definitely a perpendicularity issue.

    I was cutting the lid for my box so got to playing around with the setup… Lifting the weight of the shopvac hose + attachment eliminated the extra line/cut. I’ll be revisiting the setup and removing the extension but think a hook on the Top of the Z axis anchored in the tubes should hold the weight off the shoe. Having the suction turned on keeps the hose in place well enough.

    Here’s how it turned out! Bottom left you can see my hangup when my holding tabs failed (user error in setup)

    Fits like a glove! Needs some finish sanding and stain as well as Laser logo addition. I never even thought about how I laid down my board but it seems I had the finished side up… Live and learn for next time!

    #21301

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nothing should touch the top of the z axis. All weight should be mounted on the gantry. The top of the z axis works like a breaker bar (torque multiplier) and really moves the bit. If you are using a vac also make sure to take off the long rigid end piece. Mount the hose directly to your shoe (another torque multiplier).

    #21372

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Makes sense. Would be nice to just park the machine where it will live forever and hang hoses from the roof, but that’s a ways off. Think it’s time to design an ‘IV pole’ to hold my vac above everything!

    #21484

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Printed and rigged up a system yesterday; the main bracket snaps in place and everything holds tight enough… takes all the weight off the Z-Axis. I used a small piece of the offcut conduit from the initial build.



    I use elastics to hold thehose down, this allows quick removal in case of stray dust.

    My first bit is getting too dull so I used it up on three sets of these! One for the MPCNC and a couple more for 2 of my printers. They look so sleek! I had some tearout on the holding tabs, more user error…

    #21491

    Barry
    Participant

    Nice! I hang mine off the ceiling with bungee cord.

    #24398

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Update!

    I was finding the good ol’ Das Boot was getting in the way since I added actual clamping to the MPCNC. Previously I screwed the wood down on the corners and cut to my heart’s content. Adding clamps = need more room to move… bummer.

    I printed the cool looking right angle Dust shoe from Thingiverse and didn’t even think of the mounting. Quickly found out (should have looked) that this thing mounts to the same spot as the standard lower mount. Time to get desinging!

    This thing fits the standard HicWic quick change setup but features thicker arms and gets rid of those awful M3 bolts.



    Annnd, I received the parts I cooked when trying to tune my laser. The heatsink I mounted wasn’t quite enough and the Mosfet heated up so much it desoldered itself and fell out of my board!!!! This weekend should see some fun things happening again ’round here.

    Here’s a link to the mounting setup if interested.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018477

    #24400

    Martin DB
    Participant

    Nice design!

    #24447

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Laser be lasing now (vid later). I’m getting some … overburn? Not really sure what to call it. I remember seeing someone else with the issue but can’t recall where or what forum.

    I’m using PEP5 and running from an SD Card but also tried being tethered over USB and still getting the lines.
    Driver is an Optlaser unit, laser is a 2W M140.

    Any suggestions or ideas where to start?

    Attachments:
    #24449

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is where the RC8 firmware comes in….it has issues though.

    This is an LCD issue. RC8 fixes it but messes up the z axis, which is fine for lasing, but nothing else. The RC8 bugfix fies all of it but then you lose the menus…

    If you want to try it out, here is the link to the Regular rc8, just remember to switch back the rc7 when you are doing anything else.

    #24453

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Hmm, so what’s wrong with the Z-Axis in RC8? I’m running it on one of my printers right now without issue.

    #24455

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    printers are fine.

    #24531

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Weird, I thought I uploaded some pics of the mirror etch.. no matter; vids are better right?

    I also took a video of the new tool mount in action. I have to say rigidity is hugely improved over the standard HicWic part. My boxes are coming out with much nicer surfacing and edges! That vid will come later.

    #24545

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Sorry I crashed the site and it all got rolled back a day yesterday afternoon.

    #24571

    Jason
    Participant

    The engravings look really nice if you take a small tool like a scratch awl afterwards and scrape out the left over silver coating right to the glass. It doesnt scratch the glass and then leave the option open to paint the engraving.

    #24587

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Haha, I used to run a couple gaming forums and crashed them numerous times when trying out new plugins and ideas. I used phpBB at the time and it worked okay for the most part, but the spambots were a continual nuisance no matter what I did! I don’t miss those days at all.

    Thanks for the tip on scraping Jason! It really looks good but might look a lot better with some black paint under the image.

    Attachments:
    #24601

    Jason
    Participant

    Paint it after you scrap it. If you paint it with the left over film left on it will give it a greyish tinge to the color. Attached is a mirror I made for my fathers company. All left over film was removed then painted.

    #24847

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Man, that’s a nice looking burn! Is that with your 6W laser? I have to get a new one as mine died in a puff of ‘overloaded PSU’ smoke. I still have the 2W to play with and upgraded the PSU to a much more reliable unit.

    I also got some cutting done with the new mount…MUCH nicer cuts than the wobbly PETG one! My audio was all weird so I swapped in some Youtube freebie music.

    #32245

    Dave B.
    Participant

    It’s finally warming up enough that I can get back to the MPCNC in my garage….winter; who needs it :p

    My question is in regard to Marlin. Previously I was flipping between versions to run the laser VS the router; has this been addressed yet and do we have a single firmware version that’ll run both or do we still go from one to the other?

    I’m also going to be making some hefty changes to my machine this year if all goes well. (Hint: 1.5kW spindle)

    #32249

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The laser firmware only reroutes the fan pin as far as I remember, you shouldn’t need to switch.

    My vote is stick with the 660.

    #32250

    Dave B.
    Participant

    I was getting artifacts and skipped lines with the laser on RC7, and there were Z-Axis and rapid issues (I think?) running RC8 with the router. Have these been fixed?

    #32251

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    We still don’t use RC8, the full release is a few days away, I’ll wait.

    The laser issue has to do with the LCD.

    #32252

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Yeah, I run the machine from an SD card so the LCD is essential. I tend to do a lot of cutting then switch to a lot of laser work so not a huge deal right now to switch firmware.

    Intent is to eventually build another machine for dedicated laser work but for now it pulls double duty.

    #32253

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I check github everyday, New firmware soon. If you have the RC8 I put out before it will work for milling, we found out is was more of a z speed issue causing the LCD issue. You can just leave your RC8 on there.

    Z axis problems? Software Updates

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #32255

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Awesome! I’ll re-up it next time I switch my wood out and give it a whirl. I tend to let it run slow so shouldn’t be stressing movement anyway.

    #33385

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Got to burning a bit more, here’s a bit of work with a dithered image in PEP5. First is dirty, then the soot washed out. Last one shows depth of the burn.

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    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #33392

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    DANG!!!! That is nice.

    #33422

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Thanks! My 4 year old loves his ‘Train Map’. He wants me to wrap it up in Birthday paper so he can pretend it’s a present.

    Attachments:
    #33454

    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    Very, very nice projects!

    The results on the train picture are amazing. How long did it take?

    #33513

    Dave B.
    Participant

    Roughly 3 hours

Viewing 30 posts - 31 through 60 (of 77 total)

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