MPCNC in WI

This topic contains 46 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 8 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 17 posts - 31 through 47 (of 47 total)
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  • #68853

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I would think that something like MDF would be cheaper and somewhat more forgiving to mill than what I’m assuming is Baltic Birch?

    I’m not sure if it’s reasonable, but I feel like MDF dust is more toxic than baltic birch ply dust. It’s also harder, and a lot of it has a tough top and bottom, but softer middile, so it’s not the easiest to mill. I haven’t tried everything, but I like baltic birch the best. And as far as the cost, it will be much less expensive than solid hardwoods, but still reasonable (IMO) in small quantities. Other plywood tends to have very thin veneer, which can be tough to keep from splintering. BB is like sugar cookie dough.

    #68854

    mulze32
    Participant

    I would think that something like MDF would be cheaper and somewhat more forgiving to mill than what I’m assuming is Baltic Birch?

    I’m not sure if it’s reasonable, but I feel like MDF dust is more toxic than baltic birch ply dust. It’s also harder, and a lot of it has a tough top and bottom, but softer middile, so it’s not the easiest to mill. I haven’t tried everything, but I like baltic birch the best. And as far as the cost, it will be much less expensive than solid hardwoods, but still reasonable (IMO) in small quantities. Other plywood tends to have very thin veneer, which can be tough to keep from splintering. BB is like sugar cookie dough.

    Interesting perspective. That makes a lot of sense. Only reason I suggested it was that it appeared that a lot of people do seem to use MDF for signs and things like that but one guy that I have been following on Inventables (I use them to see what projects people have come up) and one guy has begun to use PVC board as well which I want to try. I have some baltic birch though that I need to use up so I’m going to give that a try.

    #68876

    Kelly D
    Participant

    I’m sure it’s been covered here before but I saw this and was reminded about a seminar I took ages ago about formaldehyde and other bad stuff.

    https://www.nicnas.gov.au/chemical-information/factsheets/chemical-name/formaldehyde-in-pressed-wood-products

    WoodToxicity

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    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #68882

    mulze32
    Participant

    That’s good to know. I wonder if they have such regulations in the US for pressed wood?

    #69311

    mulze32
    Participant

    So have a question in regards to using the 45 Deg v-bit found on V1 shopping site.

    I have attached three pictures that show my process, the first (IMG_0799) was done in foam with only the v-bit, the second (IMG_0798) was done in Bamboo with only the v-bit and the third (IMG_0797) was done in Bamboo with both a v-bit and 1/8″ end mill.

    The foam one appears to come out pretty well, however when it translates to the bamboo it shows some flaws in the corners and in the tail of the logo especially in the third (V-bit / Endmill) one. Don’t worry about the bottom finish because I used both sides of the board so it cut through.

    I used the carve feature in EstlCam for all three with the following settings:

    1/8″ 45 Deg v-bit: 20 mm/s, 1mm DOC, 5% stepover

    1/8″ single flute end mill: 20 mm/s, 1 mm DOC, 45% stepover

    Any suggestions on how to make these cuts better would be appreciated.

    #69323

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Deeper DOC, probably full depth, and a finishing pass.

     

    #69326

    mulze32
    Participant

    Deeper DOC, probably full depth, and a finishing pass.

    I’m using Estlcam 11 but I left the Depth Limit to automatic. What do you consider full depth for the v-bit?

    #69331

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    What settings did you enter for the tool. screenshot is best.

    #69332

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Match the settings at the end of this vid, and add a .3mm finishing pass.

    #69337

    mulze32
    Participant

    So I took your suggestion and used the specs in the video on foam and wood. Why on the foam is my cut so smooth but on wood (hardwood cutting board) it almost appears that the bit was being pushed too much.

     

    Though overall I think it came out pretty well but just wondering how I can improve on my future cuts. Oh and in your video what speed (RPMs) was your cutter at because you had really clean cuts on top and I was experiencing strings.

    #69354

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That wood in the video is some of the hardest wood, it can cut really clean, but you have to cut it slower. For what you used a little clean up is normal but try a little more or a little less on the finishing pass. Or pay close attention and see what is leaving the mess, roughing or finishing, tweak from there.

    #69376

    mulze32
    Participant

    That is some of the hardest wood, it can cut really clean, but you have to cut it slower. For what you used a little clean up is normal but try a little more or a little less on the finishing pass. Or pay close attention and see what is leaving the mess, roughing or finishing, tweak from there.

    Alright great thanks. I’ll clean this one up a bit manually but on my next carve its going to turn out perfectly… ;P

    #69473

    mulze32
    Participant

    Cheap Touchplate

    I have wanted a touch plate for awhile so I was thinking of ways to make one. One of my thoughts was using a washer and tapping a hole and attaching the screw / wire to it but I was lazy so I came up with this idea. I had a machined aluminum block from my Freshman year in engineering school. Using a micrometer I had that I’m sure is out of spec it came out to be .748″ aka .75″ So I place it on top of my workpiece, home the z-axis and set the offset to G92 Z19.05. Quick and simple and will be perfect for tool changes.

    Don’t mind the kitten. She loves the machine and get in my way.

    Attachments:
    #69510

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    MPCAT. New hashtag.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #73719

    Sean
    Participant

    I think V1 should start selling materials ;P

    Interesting…..Anything specific? I had thought about this at one time but if I could figure out some shipping I don’t see much of an issue with doing this.

    That looks like a great project with a few operations. Pretty cool use of a Robot Router!

    I remember a friend mentioning something about a craft “crate” delivering bits of hobby sized pieces of wood to start with. some randoms, some normals, some exotics. Concept seemed silly at first until I started wanting to try this or that, maybe an dark wood inlay etc. Cool recurring thing.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #73988

    mulze32
    Participant

    I think V1 should start selling materials ;P

    Interesting…..Anything specific? I had thought about this at one time but if I could figure out some shipping I don’t see much of an issue with doing this.

    That looks like a great project with a few operations. Pretty cool use of a Robot Router!

    I remember a friend mentioning something about a craft “crate” delivering bits of hobby sized pieces of wood to start with. some randoms, some normals, some exotics. Concept seemed silly at first until I started wanting to try this or that, maybe an dark wood inlay etc. Cool recurring thing.

    Yeah like a subscription box but for CNC hobbyist. A new box delivered each month with a variety of materials to try.

    #73996

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Maker geeks just started something like that for 3d printing.

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