MPCNC in WI

This topic contains 46 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 1 month, 1 week ago.

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  • #58141

    mulze32
    Participant

    Hey everybody. This is my second attempt at a MPCNC build. The first one I did used the first iteration of the system and when the next iteration came out I began to print it and dismantled the old one. (Also when I tried running in the neighbors in my apartment would complain of the noise… they sucked.) Anyways I’m back and attempting to do it again and this time following the steps as closely as possibly. I recently ordered a MK3 that will be delivered in May and when that arrives I’ll be upgrading to 1″ SS tubing.

    Anyways here a few pics of my setup. I’m really excited to get going on this. I have the plotter ready to go, the cutter (but will need to find a place to operate not in an apartment setting), and the laser coming soon.

    I’m also using the dual-end stop firmware. When I first built it I could the X-axis very square but the Y-Axis was off a lot. I’d retension the bolts and try again and yet no luck so I’m hoping that a high quality printer will produce great parts for my next upgraded build. But with that said for the plotting that I have been doing the dual-end stop is working awesome!

     

    Also! If you see anything off on the pics and have suggestions for improvement hit me!

    #58148

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Looks great!

    The plots are as flawless as they can get on a wood surface so you are on the right track this time. The laser and drag knife are silent so that could get you going without using a router.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #58149

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Cabin and Hobbs is a very good use of the MPCNC plotter. I approve. 🙂

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #58151

    mulze32
    Participant

    Looks great!

    The plots are as flawless as they can get on a wood surface so you are on the right track this time. The laser and drag knife are silent so that could get you going without using a router.

    Thanks! So two questions. I’ve been watching CNC videos all night and came across this guy:

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxdCeHBUOlcCWr6RM8acEog

    His projects are awesome and have me super inspired. But has anybody on here used double sided tape (Permacell) for their hold downs? It looks like a very intruiging concept. I understand that the tape is expensive but could help reduce the chance of hitting the cutter on a clamp.

    Also, Ryan, what do you propose for smoothing out the plotting? I need to get a mirror for the drag knife that I ordered from you so I would assume that using something like that would improve greatly.

    I also was looking at the X-Carve and I really like how they use extrusion as the frame on the bottom and then the spoil board and then the CNC on top of it. I might look into that as an option for future upgradeability.

    #58160

    Barry
    Participant

    When I do metal I use blue painter’s tape and superglue as a hold down.  I’ve got some quarter inch plywood strips I use, and some 3d printed hold downs as well.  Just depends on what I’m doing at the time.  I’ve hit a sheet rock screw before, it’s the end of the end mill and screw when that happens.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #58177

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It really is best to use a larger piece of stock. Trying to squeeze a part in is when we hit screws (we all do it). A ruined $7 endmill is always more expensive then some more material. Plastic or wood hold downs are a great idea as well as putting a box around your cut and testing the path before cutting with it.

    Anything flat works for plotting, even drawing on the notepad instead of taking teh paper out first. Make sure to use as light of pressure as possible, most times I can get away with 0.5mm depth.

     

    #58222

    mulze32
    Participant

    Thanks for the suggestions! I will definitely be trying these.

    #59726

    mulze32
    Participant

    I made a thing. The Dewalt 660 is insanely loud and in order to ensure that I stay a good neighbor in my apartment I built an enclosure. As a good engineer this is obviously a version 1 but I was able to take the dB from around 105db to 74db. A vacuum runs around 80db. This should also greatly help contain the dust to the enclosure. Currently there aren’t any plans to hook up a vacuum as I’ll just open enclosure and clean as necessary.


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    #59735

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Nice box. I have been toying with the idea of a dedicated, smaller laser set up in a box like this. Air tight and vented outside. This looks like a good design for that.

    #59744

    mulze32
    Participant

    Thanks. I stole my idea from the Shapeoko guys and their enclosures on their wiki page.

    #59839

    Edward
    Participant

    Perhaps adding some kind of acoustic suppression on the inside of the box might help to lower the decibels even further. Egg cartons, a layer of foam, etc.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #59843

    mulze32
    Participant

    Perhaps adding some kind of acoustic suppression on the inside of the box might help to lower the decibels even further. Egg cartons, a layer of foam, etc.

    I definitely like your egg carton idea. It’s cheap and I can add as I go as this is something I don’t want to put a ton of money into so any cheap hack will be awesome. Thank you!

    #59902

    mulze32
    Participant

    Wondering if I can get some help and clarification. I made my first cuts today using Fusion 360 and using the v10 post processor. Everything went really good until the very end. Instead of clearing in the positive Z direction (-13 to +9.8) the Z-axis instead plunged to a further 9mm which I thought was odd. I’m wondering if I could get some help on this. In the picture please disregard the almost complete facing operation, I gave up on that one as it was going to take forever to get from 1″ to 0.5″…

    I should mention that the steps used are 2D adaptive clearing, 2D circular, 2D contour as the operations with the 1/8″ single flute bit purchased from here.

     

    #59915

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    What do the last few lines of gcode look like? Do you have it end at the clearance plane or the bed?

    #59922

    mulze32
    Participant
    G1 X171.266 Y69.064 Z-13.09 F1000
    G1 X171.249 Y68.999 Z-13.067 F1000
    G1 X171.234 Y68.941 Z-13.029 F1000
    G1 X171.222 Y68.892 Z-12.978 F1000
    G1 X171.212 Y68.856 Z-12.918 F1000
    G1 X171.206 Y68.833 Z-12.851 F1000
    G1 X171.204 Y68.825 Z-12.781 F1000
    G1 Z15 F400
    M84; Turn steppers off
    %wait ; Wait for the planner to empty
    Everything looks good until the G1 Z15 F400 when it then seems to reverse polarity and goes into the workpiece 15mm instead of in the normal positive plus direction. I’m in the same boat as you of trying to find it out but haven’t yet. When I do press the +Z direction it then proceeds to go in the proper direction.
    #59928

    Barry
    Participant

    Get rid of that M84.

    #59929

    mulze32
    Participant

    Get rid of that M84.

    That’s what I have been thinking. I tested a 2D contour only without the M84 command and it worked correctly. Why would that be affecting things though?

    #59934

    BT
    Participant

    When the steppers get disabled, gravity may be enough to cause the z-axis to drop, particularly if you have the lead screw (instead of the all thread).  My LowRider whirls down at a pretty good clip that looks like it is being driven down.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #59938

    mulze32
    Participant

    Thanks BT. Will give a try after I make some adjustments to my model and go from there. I’m really impressed with both EtslCam and Fusion 360 for getting my creations made.

    #61571

    mulze32
    Participant

    So here is my first true “production” cuts on my MPCNC. These are spacers for my SUV’s roof rack to be able to put 8020 extrusions between the factory rails without hitting the roof and have mounting capabilities similar to a product that a company called Front Runner offers.

    Material – Seaboard (essentially King Starboard I think). The tolerances were pretty much spot on. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JPHTPCI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Bit: 1/8″ single flute end mill purchased from this great site.

    CAM: Fusion 360 CAD designed and then used the MPCNC post processor v10 (I think) to get the cuts made. It was a goal of mine for this project to learn Fusion 360 better as I’m familiar with solidworks and then learn how to use their CAM profile.

    Speeds and feeds – default which I think are the defaults that Ryan specifies for any material and had the dimmer switch controlling the dewalt at full speed.

    Material Hold down – double sided tape or blue painters tape super glued together. Both worked beautifully. I love these.

    Cutting Time: About 2 hr 50 mins for the big pieces and 2 hrs for the small pieces. So total for the production pieces only about 16 hours of cutting time. This in no way takes into account the foam that I used as tests. Foam is awesome for test cuts and will have to stop at HD to get more soon.

    I cut down the 12″ x 24″ board down to 12″ x 8″ boards and was able to get multiple pieces off of one board. I really used the opportunity for the dual end stops to get the off-sets in the starting code to maximize my material usage. This material cuts like a dream without any melting and it finished really well. In the pictures you can see some non-finished passes which were rework and you won’t see anyways. I’m looking forward to using this material again for something.

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    #61578

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    AWESOME! Truly useful parts are the best!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #68525

    mulze32
    Participant

    So running into bit of an issue. Wanting to make a bowl but I needed to test out the gcode and CAM before I went ahead and destroyed some wood. I’m using a 1/8″ single flute from V1 and trying to get a final depth of 3/4″ but ran into an issue where the red stopper on bit itself ran into the workpiece. Do longer cut 1/8″ single flutes exist? or should I just remove the red stopper to achieve my depth?

    I was thinking about using a 1/4″ bit to achieve larger depths if needed for the adaptive and the contour cuts and end with a ball nose for finishing. What are my best steps forward?

    You can see in the pictures where it hit both the part and the outer material and almost made a chamfer. The foam I’m using is 1″ thick but man does it come in handy.

    #68528

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You can remove it (I just use pliers, it’s a friction fit). They also make larger bits. Just remember that you need the flutes to remove chips and you need plenty of grip on the but in the chuck.

    #68549

    mulze32
    Participant

    Yeah I agree. I think that all I need for spacing is the thickness of the red stopper piece itself and I would be good. Will try on my text piece in the next couple of days.

    #68836

    mulze32
    Participant

    Jewelry Dish

    I’m finally following up on my Mother’s Day 2018 present and made my mom a jewelry dish for her earrings and rings. It is .75″ tall and consists of purple heart and maple.

    I used a 1/8″ single flute end mill and 1/8″ ball nose to complete the operations.

    Face Operation – 16 min @ 16 mm/s of .02″

    3D Adaptive – 4h 17m @ .75 mm DOC @ 20mm/s with RPMs at half using Harbor Freight Router control

    Parallel Ballnose operation – 22 min @ .3175 mm step over (10% of 1/8” BN) @ 25mm/s – only in X direction 

    2D Contour – .75mm DOC @ 20 mm/s

    The ball nose operation will be removed for next time as I think it looked pretty good with only the end mill.

    To control the speed I used a Harbor Freight router control that I got on Labor Day after a 25% off coupon for a total of $15. Its pretty slick. The speed I used was right under half.

    The finish is just some mineral oil. All materials were purchased through inventables. I think V1 should start selling materials ;P

     

     

    #68846

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I think V1 should start selling materials ;P

    Interesting…..Anything specific? I had thought about this at one time but if I could figure out some shipping I don’t see much of an issue with doing this.

     

    That looks like a great project with a few operations. Pretty cool use of a Robot Router!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #68849

    mulze32
    Participant

    Interesting…..Anything specific? I had thought about this at one time but if I could figure out some shipping I don’t see much of an issue with doing this.

    That I’m not really sure. My vision was similar to what Inventables’ material store looks like in terms of offerings but I’m not sure if that’s really economical for you or even wise. I just figured that since you offered some bits that the option for some material to also be included on the same order could help people single source everything from their preferred vendor.

    #68850

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    IDK if it would work the same as inventables since they have very little customizability. But offering some pieces that fit in the box might help get people going. I wouldn’t want to order my materials always from you, but that might just be me. If it’s sort of something to start with, then I think something on the more basic side, but something that will mill well. So I’d vote for BB. I could see adding a 10″x14″ or whatever size those usps boxes are when making my original order, then I’d have a good place to start after I finished my crown drawing.

    Something like 1/2″ would be sturdy and small enough to ship.

    #68851

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I just got in my Digikey order. I love how their shipping system works. You can chose what carrier and see the rates, they use odd size boxes and dang does it get here fast. I need to find out how they do it. That would make my life so much better and could offer more things like materials, and hats! Shipping is the worst part of the job…

    #68852

    mulze32
    Participant

    IDK if it would work the same as inventables since they have very little customizability. But offering some pieces that fit in the box might help get people going. I wouldn’t want to order my materials always from you, but that might just be me. If it’s sort of something to start with, then I think something on the more basic side, but something that will mill well. So I’d vote for BB. I could see adding a 10″x14″ or whatever size those usps boxes are when making my original order, then I’d have a good place to start after I finished my crown drawing.

    Something like 1/2″ would be sturdy and small enough to ship.

    I would think that something like MDF would be cheaper and somewhat more forgiving to mill than what I’m assuming is Baltic Birch?

    I just got in my Digikey order. I love how their shipping system works. You can chose what carrier and see the rates, they use odd size boxes and dang does it get here fast. I need to find out how they do it. That would make my life so much better and could offer more things like materials, and hats! Shipping is the worst part of the job…

    Just call them and ask or find a logistics guy on LinkedIn and message him. I’m sure they have spent some time with some consultants to come up with their methods. Sounds like your next challenge!

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