MP3DP Build Instructions

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This topic contains 10 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  Jeff 6 months, 3 weeks ago.

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  • #91018

    Jeff
    Participant

    MP3DP Build Instructions

    In starting my build, I realized there really wasn’t any good instructions on building this thing so I set about to document my build and with help and support from Ryan (and a host of others on the forums) I got it built.  The instructions below are how “I” built mine.  Are there other ways and orders to build things, probably, but this is what worked for me.  I have been in touch with Ryan and he has given me his blessing to post these on the forums for everyone to use.  As others build there MP3DP and come up with better ways of doing things, this document can/will be edited to reflect any improvements.

    The post will be broken up into multiple parts with around 6 pictures per post just to keep each post size down and help in organizing and downloading speeds.

    I used 1/2″ MDF for all the parts except the Y Speed Plate which is 1/4″ MDF.
    With the thickness of the MDF and the Printed Parts (bought from Ryan) I used 1″ x6-32 machine screws to attach the MDF to the Machine Parts.

    Flat Parts (FP) are the ones that you either cut or Route out of MDF (or some other material).

    Printed Parts (PP) are the 3D printed parts you either get from Ryan or print yourself.

    These instructions will take you through the physical build of the Printed Parts and the Flat Parts.  I didn’t get ambitious enough to take photo’s of the electrical work.  If I get time, I might do a write up of the electrical work that I did (miniRambo and LCD) but we will see.

    Steps in Order that I did them are in the subsequent SubPosts.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #91020

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. Building the Frame
      1. Connect the Front_mm(FP) to the Y_Frame_mm(FP) using 1 CornerL(PP) and 1 CornerR(PP) printed parts with 1” x 6-32 machine screws and 6-32 Nyloc.
      2. Note: The Y_Frame_mm is the same for both the Left and Right sides- cut out 2 of them and flip one over.
      3. Note: The Front_mm(FP) is not reversible – it has a Left and Right side; be sure the extra 3 holes for it on the Right side of your printer if looking at it from the front.
        Note:  I left things loose until the end of step 2 and then tightened things down.

    IMG_8275

    Attachments:
    #91023

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. Connect the Back_mm(FP) to the Y_Frame_mm(FP) using the other set of CornerL(pp) and CornerR(PP) with 1” x 6-32 machine screws and 6-32 Nyloc.
      1. Note: The Back_mm(FP) is not reversible – it also has a Left and Right side; be sure that the extra 3 holes for this one are on the Left side (if looking from the rear).  Basically, the extra holes in the Front_mm(FP) and the Back_mm(FP) should both be on the Right side of the printer if looking at it from the front.

    IMG_8274

    Attachments:
    #91026

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. Attach the Z_Mount_L(PP) and the Z_Mount_R(PP) to the Left and Right side of the Y_Frame_mm(FP) with 1” x 6-32 machine screws and 6-32 Nyloc.

    IMG_8276

     

    Attachments:
    #91029

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. Attach the XZ_Frame(FP) to the Z_Mount_L(PP) and the Z_Mount_R(PP) using the 1” x 6-32 machine screws and 6-32 Nyloc.
    2. Insert the Brace(PP) into the openings at the top of the Left and Right side of the XZ_Frame(FP) and secure them with 1” x 6-32 machine screws and 6-32 Nyloc.

    IMG_8284a

    Attachments:
    #91039

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. Installing the 350mm Smooth Rods
      1. Insert one end of the 350mm Smooth Rod into a YClip(PP).
        1. Note: The Yclip(PP) has a round hole on one side and the other side the hole is flattened and has a ledge in it to act as a stop for the 350mm Smooth Rod. Insert the 350mm Smooth Rod through the round opening and press it in until it meets the ledge.  I had to give it a little persuasion with a small rubber hammer to get it to seat properly (as all the parts Ryan designs, these are a perfect press fit.
      2. Slide one of the LM8UU bearings over the Y_Bed_Bearing_Block(PP) and then slide it over a 350mm Smooth Rod, making sure that the slit in the Y_Bed_Bearing_Block(PP) is facing into the middle of the printer.
        1. Note: The Y_Bed_Bearing_Block(PP) have a directionality to them so the LM8UU can only be inserted from one direction.
      3. Repeat step “b” for the other end of the 350mm Smooth Rod.
      4. Insert the 350mm Smooth Rod/YClip assembly into the notches on the Left Side the Front_mm(FP) and Back_mm(FP) and secure with 1” x 6-32 machine screws and 6-32 Nyloc.
        1. Note: If you are like me and put multiple coats of paint and polyurethane on your flat parts, then you may have to do some sanding/filing to get the YClips(PP) to fit properly.
      5. For the other 350mm Smooth Rod on the Right Side you are going to repeat steps “a” thru “d” except you are going to install 2 LM8UU bearings and 2 Y_Bed_Bearing_Blocks.

    IMG_8290

    Attachments:
    #91116

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. XZ Mounts and Assemblies
      1. XZ_Motor(PP) and XZ_End prep
        1. Insert 2 LM8UU bearings into the XZ_Motor(PP), it’s a tight fit so they may need some persuasion to go in all the way.
        2. Insert the T8 Nut into the XZ_Motor(PP) – insert it from the bottom and secure with 2 M3 x 10mm machine screws.
          1. Do the same 2 steps with the XZ_End(PP) plus:
            1. Insert the GT2 16 Toothed Idler into the XZ_End(PP)and secure with a M3-.5 x 22mm (or longer) machine screw and nut.

    IMG_8296

    Attachments:
    #91119

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. X(PP) prep
      1. Insert 4 LM8UU bearings into the X(PP).
        1. Note: The LM8UU bearings will only go into the X(PP) one way as the X(PP) has stops in it to prevent the bearings from going too far.
          1. IMG_8300
    2. Attach the X Stepper Motor to the XZ_Motor(PP) using (3) M3 x 10mm machine screws.
    3. Attach the GT2 16T Pulley onto the shaft of the X Stepper Motor
          1. IMG_8330
    4. Install the 2 Endstops onto the XZ_Motor(PP). I used M2x16mm machine screws, lock washers and nuts.
      1. Note: I soldered the connections to the EndStops and then used heat shrink tubing to cover the connections to avoid any shorts.  Be sure to wire the EndStops in the Normally Closed (NC) position.  Basically, 1 wire to the NC Terminal and the other to the Common (Com).  If you purchased from Ryan then you are using the 2 outside terminals.
      2. Note: Verify the direction that the EndStops are facing.
          1. IMG_8329

     

    #91128

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. Connect the XZ_Motor(PP), the XZ_End(PP) and the X(PP) together with the 2 370mm Smooth Rods.
      1. Note: The orientation of the X(PP) is important so make sure it is installed correctly.
      2. Note: The distance between the XZ_Motor(PP) and the XZ_End(PP) needs to be 301mm at both the top and bottom rods. Once you have this set, insert (2) 1” x 6-32 machine screws into the holes in the XZ_End(PP) to secure the rods in place.
        1. IMG_8299
    Attachments:
    #91131

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. Install the Coupler 5mm-8mm on the shaft of the Z-Axis Steppers and then install the T8 Leadscrew 300mm. I recommend following the directions for this that are on the Lowrider Assembly page.
    2. Secure the Z-Axis Steppers to the Z_Mount_L(PP) and the Z_Mount_R(PP) using M3 x 10mm machine screws by feeding the assembly up through the bottom of the Z_Mount_L(PP) and the Z_Mount_R(PP).
        1. IMG_8294
    Attachments:
    #91134

    Jeff
    Participant
    1. Put the assembly completed 2 steps above onto the T8 Leadscrews and carefully spin the T8 Leadscrews to lower the assembly down onto them.
    2. Insert the 320mm Smooth Rods into the XZ_Motor(PP) and XZ_End(PP) and push them into the holes in the Z_Mount_L(PP) and Z_Mount_R(PP) until they hit the top of the Stepper motors.
    3. Install the Upper_L(PP) and Upper_R(PP) on the XZ_Main(FP) with the smooth rods in the hole and attach them with (4) 1” x 6-32 machine screws and 6-32 Nyloc.
        1. IMG_8309
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