August 30, 2018 at 8:08 pm #67870
Hey all so I got these 13mm plastic plates free. They have some scratches from before but eh, still look cool and strong. I have been browsing the forum and trying to figure out what type of table I’m gonna do, I have swung back and forth from solid wood to ping pong table and now I’m thinking of metal studs… I even drew up a table in fusion but am not sure about it, I don’t want to go overboard but would like a table that is solid. The table will be on a dirt floor in one of my barns. Anyway I could use some advise.
Attachments:August 30, 2018 at 8:10 pm #67877
I vote cheap and easy. If you find anything about it you want to change you will have a giant router to make some super crazy table parts with!
Looks good so far.August 31, 2018 at 8:58 pm #67988September 1, 2018 at 5:43 am #67998
Jeffeb3ParticipantSeptember 8, 2018 at 9:24 pm #68733
Hey all, so I’ve been thinking about putting some angle on the side of the ping pong table for the wheels. Securing it to the table to keep the two halves as aligned as possible. Is that overboard? I was considering unistrut instead because it’s cheaper but it may make the space between the wheels and the lower rollers to thick. I also want to use foam for my spoil board some how so the unistrut height might actually be good. I guess I just gotta measure huh? 😉 I’m working with a friend to get my metal wholesale so I’m kinda waiting on him for now.September 12, 2018 at 8:36 am #68984
This was my idea. But i had already purchased my stainless, and the ping pong tables were about 1.5 inches wider than the table calculator called for with my stainless lengths. Dicks sporting goods had a 500$ table on sale for 200$, folded up and looked much sturdier than most, but the thought of rigging something to pin the 2 halves together (and more importantly level the 4 corners so no abrupt angle between halves) as well as either buying longer stainless or trimming 2 inches off the table and remounting the table framing was too much for me. I’m going steel for the table lol. My inner perfectionist is getting the best of me.
Side note, good choice on orange pla, i may be a little partial, I did the same. Striving for dimensional accuracy if nothing else allowed me to figure out my feedrate on printer was off by 11 percent. Probably why every print for the last 3-4 years required a couple of attempts and a custom profile. Now my printer runs like a well oiled machine. I can watch the first perimeter go down, and walk out, even on 10-12 hour prints.October 9, 2018 at 5:45 pm #71471October 20, 2018 at 6:46 pm #72807
Alright slow going with all the other responsibilities. Got the stainless at a local supplier, 20′ 0.065 for $75. They charge to cut, but ended up cutting it for free. Great people at http://www.largesmetalfabrication.com/. Loosely assembled it but need to level the ground where my table is gonna be so it may be awhile. In case anyone is wondering I will be putting a 3/4″ foam board then a sheet of mdf to make up the height of the rails.
Attachments:October 21, 2018 at 6:05 pm #72889
I like the threaded rod idea.. did you find it useful to make it square? I can’t tell if you have any other fastener to the table. Does it bow down a bit in the middle?October 21, 2018 at 7:26 pm #72901
Dui, ni shuo de duiParticipant
That looks like a sweet build!
Now you will have to go one step ahead and put some high speed servo motors and a nice controller board with image recognition to make you a robotized ping pong opponent.
More seriously, you’ll probably have quite a bit of work to make the table flat. If It did sit outside for a long time there is a very high chance that the thing will be badly warped, you might want to check this asap since it is a lot of work to redo this afterwards.October 21, 2018 at 7:30 pm #72902
I just have it mocked up right now, so nothing is really attached. I went with the threaded rod so I could have the adjustment to square it up. It does have a bow in the middle because the ground is no where near flat. I am waiting on my buddy to come over on my weekend and he has one of those tri pod laser level devices to help level the ground up. I eventually want to pour concrete in this barn but the whole place needs lots of work and its all time and money ugh. I got these latches that are meant for crates or something that I’m gonna try and use to hold down the rails that way I won’t need to drill into the surface of the table. If that doesn’t work out I’ll just bolt it down probably.October 22, 2018 at 4:50 am #72924
Even if you can’t get it perfectly flat, you can surface the spoil board.December 5, 2018 at 5:44 pm #78254
So been very busy but made some progress today. Leveled the ground and the table. started to attach the rails. Slow progress but at least in the right direction.
1 user thanked author for this post.September 24, 2019 at 8:12 am #115273
Mike, did you complete this table? I’m looking for a quick, temporary table to allow me to CNC a better table. I already have the ping-pong table and like that other components are available at Home Depot.
If you finished, could you give me insight into the following:
- How did you attach the unistrut to the ping-pong table?
- Did the foam board work well?
- How did you attach foam and the MDF ontop to the table or struts?
- I just need this to cut wood, not carve. Do you think it’d be a sufficient table for that?
Thanks, any tips or thoughts are appreciated!October 17, 2019 at 10:19 pm #118259
Hey Jason, sorry I haven’t been able to work on this since I last posted. Stuff has just got crazy at my house. I just used self tapping screws to secure the struts. I made sure it was going to hit the framing of the table though. My plan was to use double sided tape to hold down the spoil board.
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