Minnesota Build – Low Rider

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This topic contains 275 replies, has 13 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 year, 6 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 211 through 240 (of 276 total)
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  • #56669

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Nope, gcode only until the new firmware is easier to flash.

    #56670

    Anonymous

    Ok – Got that….

     

    So here is the start – this gcode is rendered out of Estlcam.

    G90
    M03 S24000
    G00 X0.0000 Y0.0000 Z0.0000 F2100
    G00 Z5.0000 F480

    Where do I place the G92 ?

    I am not sure what G00 means.

    #56671

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Did you see the page linked and my replies?

    After the G90 or estlcam beginning gcode section, and it is not just g92, G92 X0 Y0 Z0. And pay attention to the ending Gcode as well as described in the page.

    #56674

    Anonymous

    Yes, I just reviewed it now.

     

    So here is the generated code with it added:

    G90 (needed – sets absolute positioning?)
    G92 X0 Y0 Z0
    M03 S24000 (Does not matter since the router is manually controlled right?)
    G00 X0.0000 Y0.0000 Z0.0000 F2100 (doesn’t this line do the same)?
    G00 Z5.0000 F480 (Is this raising the Z by 5mm ?)

     

     

    #56677

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    .

    g92

    Attachments:
    #56702

    Anonymous

    The 4th column has a Z+ walking down some stairs, that’s how much material it will take off with each pass. You have it set to 1mm, which will mean it will take 3 passes to reach 3mm deep.

    You’ve got a 50% stepover, which should give you a smoothish finish on the bottom of the pockets (and IIRC, 45% is the most of you choose one of the other pocket strategies, like peel).

    You haven’t set up a finish pass, so it will be doing the bulk of the work in one go. You’ll get a better finish if you use a finish pass, but on a big job like this, I think it’s fine to leave it out. Even with a finish pass, it should be closer to 3 hours. I think the big problem is you chose carve and you’ve configured it for three passes.

    So revisiting your post Jeff about setting up the tool in Estlcam…. Finishing pass.  I think I know what that is but not sure how/when to implement it.  I presume the Yellow columns in the Tool List is where the parameters are set for finishing –  In my case even though you said that I could do it all in one pass given I set it for only 3mm the more I think for this I need to be 1/4″ deep which I belive is 6.35mm – would that then warrant a finishing pass and if so how would I change the tool settings ?

    #56712

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Probably best to stick to one thing at a time. Did the screen shot above fix your zero issues?

    #56715

    Anonymous

    Yes, I added that to the Estlcam and I am air cutting now and it kept the correct Z height and didn’t drop down to zero like it was before.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #56736

    Anonymous

    Well this is as far as I could get today.  Two attempts… 25 degrees in my garage …. I give up for today.

    Attempt 1 – Good start until I realized I should have removed the plastic covering from the poly.  Also should have screwed it down to get it to lay flat.

    Attempt 2 – After several attempts to get the machine set right I realized that I had the belt on the X axis not feeding through the idlers so had to reset the belt.   Then started the machine and it was going all good until I used some compressed air and was blowing out the cut but also blew a cut zip tie into the path of the wheels on the opposite side and it locked up the machine.

     

     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #56738

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Dayum!!!

    It was going extremely well, looks sharp, crisp and clean.

    #56739

    Barry
    Participant

    I really like the clear plate.

    #56752

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Achievement unlocked!

    #56757

    Anonymous

    I said I was done today but decided to give it one more go……froze to the the bone but like Jeff mentioned achievement unlocked!

    Poly wise I think it turned out pretty good for the first complete cut.

    I think the clear plate is good but not sure how it will hold up to a router….

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #56988

    Anonymous

    Ryan – I’ve noticed in the Y axis that it does not move smooth.  I am not sure if its because of these short steps or something else.  I cleaned the bearings and made sure everything was tight and running against the tubes but it still does it.  I tried getting a video of it but not sure that it shows in the video.

    The last cut I did had a bunch of jagged cuts and not smooth so I am not sure what the cause was.   I did try to keep the pink stuff blown off but some would collect on the bearing so maybe that caused it not sure.

     

    #56992

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    1) Does it move smoothly when you push it with the motors off? If something is binding, then that’s at least half the problem.
    2) It doesn’t sound like its skipping steps. Just to be sure, travel a set amount, like 100mm and back and make sure its basically in the same place.
    3) How tight are your belts? This can be a big of a black hole/scape goat for these kinds of things, but if they are too loose, this could be the behavior you’d see.
    4) Is the gear on the motor tight? If the set screw can move a little on the flat section, but not escape the flat, you might see this (although I would guess it would be more like taking up the slack when going left, and remaining taught until it went right).

    #56995

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The logo came out perfect and crisp, what changed since then? I can’t tell from that video and the cut is too regular to not be either Gcode or an obviously visible problem.

    #57008

    Neil
    Participant

    looks to me like its stopping between incremental stops. If I put my mouse where it stops and continue watching as it repeats the movement it stops in the same place. Almost as if it moves 10mm then pauses then 10mm then pauses.. Just what I am seeing maybe not. Are you just jogging the y steps via the screen/menu? If so try changing it to 100mm and see if it runs nice and smooth for a longer distance.

     

    Neil

    #57011

    Anonymous

    I was controlling it with a key pad that sends specific gcode for the movements.   If I have it run a longer distance it seems smooth but at other times its still a bit jerky.   Belts are tight and the gear on the motor is tight and set screws are in the right position on the stepper shaft.

    I am going to try and do a cut on some pine today with the single flute upcut bit have ….. what would be a safe feed rate?   also, should I have Estlcam set to doing finishing … will that make the cuts look better?

    Ryan to answer your question…the only thing that changed was I was further down the table and about 3/4 of the way into the Y axis.    I did do the cut with the Rotary so that itself could have some artifact given the way it mounts.

    Now I have the Maktia 701C installed so will see if that changes anything or not.

    #57014

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    1) Does it move smoothly when you push it with the motors off? If something is binding, then that’s at least half the problem.

    ??

    looks to me like its stopping between incremental stops

    I was controlling it with a key pad that sends specific gcode for the movements.

    Good point. Send a G01 Y100 F900 and then a G01 Y0 F900. That will move +Y for 100mm and then back. If that’s smooth, then Neil got it.

    I am going to try and do a cut on some pine today with the single flute upcut bit have ….. what would be a safe feed rate?

    8mm/s 3mm DOC. Experiment with the finishing on and off and see what it does.

    On the rough foam edge, did that job finish? Maybe it’s just the finish on the pocket, and it still needs to do the outline?

    #57015

    Anonymous

    No binding – moves smooth absent power.

    Yes, the long runs of Y back and forth it seems smooth.

    The foam cut did totally finish so that is what has me perplexed.     Will keep testing .

     

    #57017

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    No binding, tight belts and tight gears, not skipping steps, it must be gcode. Some combination of Neil’s point about jogging with a keypad and Ryan’s about something wrong with the gcode. It does look a lot like what it would do if it only did the pocket and not the “outline” or whatever it’s called.

    Here’s a quick (<10min) rotated rectangle with a pocket. It’s slow (6mm/s) and 3mm deep. Try this in the foam. If it works, you can try pine.

    LR_test

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #57039

    Anonymous

    Here is the test.  Photo is a bit shifted as it was in an area I can barely lean over.

    #57041

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Did you have a vbit installed, or something other than a 1/8″ bit?

    #57042

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    My CAM is set up for a 3.175mm bit, and 90% stepover, so you must have had something that was less than 2.75mm or so.

    #57043

    Anonymous

    2.5mm

    #57044

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    That makes sense then. The outside edges don’t look choppy to me. Do they look choppy to you?

    Here it is re-done with 2.5mm bit.

    Attachments:
    1. LR_test-1.gcode
    #57046

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    This is even better than CNC.js! I can just post a gcode file here, and it gets cut without me even having to strap down some material!

    #57047

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    This is even better than CNC.js!

    AHAHAHHAHAH, I want in in the beta test of this…firmware…no, workware??

     

    Looks like it was just a matter of choppy manual movements, from Gcode it looks perfect.

    #57050

    Anonymous

    1x pine board – I used these bits.  Edges are not as clean as I think they should be.

     

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078LRZJTD/

    #57052

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Lower step over, larger finishing pass. But the bottom is never going to be super clean with a bit like that.

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