Minnesota Build – Low Rider

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider Minnesota Build – Low Rider

This topic contains 275 replies, has 13 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 year, 6 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 61 through 90 (of 276 total)
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  • #54668

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    There are different configurations.

    Three drivers, and you wire X and Z to two motors in series. No endstops.

    Five drivers, and each X and Z motor gets it’s own driver, but no endstops. One wire for each motor. I don’t think you want to use the dual endstops firmware because it has soft stop enabled. You’d have to configure Marlin for this set up. The only advantage on this setup is that it’s the same motor wiring as the dual endstops.

    Five drivers, dual endstops. This hasn’t been worked out by Ryan, AFAIK, but there are at least two people on the forums that have it. One with endstops at zmin and one at zmax. There were challenges, but they are both working, I think.

    I think you should start with three drivers, get some cuts in and then go to five drivers and dual endstops. It will give you a chance to have some fun, and test your table set up. There no point in the sweat of dual endstops until the rest of the machine is set up. Maybe more firmware will come out or something to make it easier in the mean time.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #54670

    Anonymous

    Jeff – thanks man I knew I was over thinking this thing….  Hopefully I can get some sort of makeshift table built this weekend.

    #54696

    Anonymous

    I bought this table below from a guy on Craigslist that was going to do a DIY CNC plasma cutter.   Life got in the way so he sold it.
    I got it for $400.   It’s 68″ wide by 108″ long.

    I bought it on the premise I still had my LowRider parts in a box and one day I would get them out and build it and I thought this table would work.

    My dilemma is do I modify this table as in it’s current dimension  as it will not work with the length of my X rails or do I build out some table like Barry or Greg but smaller…..

    The home for which ever table I go with will be in my storage shed which needs some cleaning out but in a weekend I can get the space needed cleared out with some rearrangements.

    The catch with the steel table is that I have to modify it to the correct dimensions plus I have to make it so I can break it down to get it into my storage shed.

    What weighs on my mind is …. space… do I use what I got and go all out so i can do 4×8 sheets or do I keep it more realistic and scale it down?  I am on the fence given I am a total novice.  I did some small work when I had my MPCNC and found the small size limiting.

    What do you guys think ?

     

    #54714

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    What do you guys think ?

    Is your lawn really that green in March?

    Seriously though, that seems like a great table, and not a great table. You need support in the middle for the spoil board. The rails are tough (being steel), but they are too wide. There’s nothing that says you can’t build it that big, but you wont get work pieces bigger than a 4×8, probably. So what you have is a great base with wheels that is too big. The surface still needs to be designed and installed.

    It is cool, and it looks cool. Your options are:
    – Cut into it, reweld it the right size, build a table surface (maybe a torsion table?) on top.
    – Build a different base and find another thing to do with this. Still need a table and then you’d need a base too.
    – What about making two thing on it? Low rider (less than full size) on one side and another work area (like a table saw) on the other? I’ve been very happy with my approx. 3’x4′ low rider. A 36″ low rider that can travel the 68″ would be a tough machine. You could almost fit a 30″x60″ half of BB ply on that, which is a great blank.

    That’s a tough one. I think this is really a case of having several good options, and finding the right one depends on how much energy you want to put in. In two months, when you look back, I don’t think you’d regret any of those choices, unless you just stop completely :).

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #54719

    Anonymous

    The photo was from the guy I bought it from….. but I wish my grass was that green this time of year.  So sick of the snow…..

    I am still on the fence… it will require much work and that may be more time and money invested than just building something from scratch the first time.

    It only holds value for someone who sees what it can be other wise it is just scrap iron.

    Help me understand your comment about the rails being too wide ?

     

    #54721

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Help me understand your comment about the rails being too wide ?

    Just that they are 68″ apart, and your be better with about 60″.

    #54833

    Anonymous

    So I have this pretty good sized wooden work table – smaller than my steel table.    Last night I was messing around with adding a short piece of 2×4 onto the side to see how the lowrider side rails attached.

    Absent the Xrails I noticed the siderails want to droop on the bottom.  Is this normal and will it go away once the X rails are all set up?

    How snug should the side rails fit onto the 2×4 ?

    I went to a big box today to buy some 8′ 2×4’s and for the life of me thought I had some straight ones but they must of warped on the way home.  Not sure how this is going to be level or true with this method.

    #54836

    Barry
    Participant

    So I have this pretty good sized wooden work table – smaller than my steel table. Last night I was messing around with adding a short piece of 2×4 onto the side to see how the lowrider side rails attached. Absent the Xrails I noticed the siderails want to droop on the bottom. Is this normal and will it go away once the X rails are all set up? How snug should the side rails fit onto the 2×4 ? I went to a big box today to buy some 8′ 2×4’s and for the life of me thought I had some straight ones but they must of warped on the way home. Not sure how this is going to be level or true with this method.

    Can you post some pictures?  I’m not understanding what you’re calling the side rails.

    #54837

    Anonymous

    Barry – I mean the side assembly – when I roll it onto the 2×4 frame it wants to droop at the bottom wheels – so either I don’t have it snug or I need to put it all together for it to fit correctly….meaning connect side assemblies with the z assembly so the left and right are fully connected.

    #54843

    Barry
    Participant

    Ahh! The bottom wheels are mainly to keep it from falling over when the x axis raises up.  The sides are held in place by the x rails.

    #54844

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Yeah, once you put in the tubes, it will be fine. I ran for a while without the bottom wheels touching and it was fine.

    #54882

    Anonymous

    Barry –  where did you get the metal c channel you are using for your guide rails ?

     

    Also, I was watching your video on the new table build link you shared…. two questions.

    1. are you using end stops?  I cannot figure out how you are jogging the machine all over without it crashing.
    2. I see the c rails are raised up… why so high?
    #54885

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    0) I think it’s called unistrut.
    1) I think he’s using a gcode file to fly around
    2) The top of the rails is about where you want the top of your spoil board. The higher you get the carriage, the stiffer the Z axis will be.

    #55118

    Barry
    Participant

    Barry – where did you get the metal c channel you are using for your guide rails ? Also, I was watching your video on the new table build link you shared…. two questions.

    1. are you using end stops? I cannot figure out how you are jogging the machine all over without it crashing.
    2. I see the c rails are raised up… why so high?

    Like Jeff said, that’s unistrut.  They have it in the electrical section at Lowe’s and Home Depot.  It’s like the old Meccano toys, but for adults.

    1 No end stops yet.  I created a short G code that just went something like

    G0 X0 Y2400 F3000

    G0 X1380 Y2400 F3000

    G0 X1380 Y0 F3000

    Just bouncing through the mins and maxes to make sure I had it right, first time was a little grindy, so I brought the numbers down a bit.

    2 I raised them up so when the gantry is at it’s lowest position it just hovers over the spoil board.  Keeps me from dragging the carriage on the work, and helps keep me from catching it on fire if I screw up the z depth again.  Though I try not to let the collet stick down through the carriage anymore.  They’re actually an inch shorter now than when I took those pictures.  I found out that even with the router lowered as far as it would go, my one eighth bits weren’t long enough to cut all the way through quarter inch plywood. 🙄

    #55149

    Anonymous

    Barry – thanks for the information.

    What are the dimensions of your overall table and would you be willing  share your torsion table plans?

    What it 3/4″ ply – 4 sheets total or 5 ?

    #55160

    Barry
    Participant

    It was 4 sheets of 3/4 and two sheets of half.  the table is 5 by 8 feet.  The strut sticks out 6 inches on either end to give me 9 feet long.  I’ll see if I can dig up the cut sheet later, or if you have fusion 360, I can share the file with you.  I think it’s still correct.  I had to make a couple changes, but can’t remember what it was.

    #55161

    Anonymous

    Barry – I do have fusion 360 – not that I even know how to use it : )  — my email is [email protected]

    What was the 1/2″ ply for ?

    One question… why use plywood for the side vs. just standard 1x lumber ?  and Why ply for top and bottom vs. MDF ?

    What grade plywood ?

     

    #55181

    Barry
    Participant

    It was the “premium” plywood at Lowe’s, which is laughable.  I had to reglue one piece because it was delamanating so bad.  I’m not a fan of mdf for structural things.  Growing up in a military family, all our furniture was cheap ass Sauder furniture.  MDF is for throw away things, like the spoil board!  😆   The top and bottom are 3/4, the sides and inside ribs are half.  Most of the dimensional lumber at Lowe’s looks like propellers, so that’s why I used plywood for everything.  If you have a better lumber place close to you, one-by material for the sides and ribs would probably work really well.  It doesn’t have to be as thick as the one I made either.  I made it this thick so I could put clamps and what-nots inside for storage.  I found on the other table I’d keep leaving crap on the table, then the gantry would either hang up on it, or just push it off the end.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #55182

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Plywood is also more stable, which is good in the long run, but also first have the internal stress of fast dried wood.

    #55183

    Anonymous

    Thanks guys…  – Barry I got the 360 file too so thanks for sending it.

    #55198

    Barry
    Participant

    I would use it as a guide, not as a blueprint.  Like I said I had to change a couple things while I was building, and can’t remember if I fixed the model or not.  Pretty sure I did though.  Just double check any measurements before you cut.

    #55380

    Anonymous

    Well I have taken the first step on the table.  I am going to attempt to reuse the steel table and if that fails I will build a torsion box table like Barry’s.    Last night I used my plasma cutter and cut it apart.

    #55395

    Anonymous

    Although I am still figuring out my table – I was able to attempt to put it all together tonight.

    Are you guys cutting the lead screw off flush with the bottom of the side assembly or leaving it a bit longer?

    Also – how much Z height are you guys set up for?   I only set up for 4″ – So my Z rails are only 12.28 ”

     

     

    #55416

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I left mine long, but I don’t remember it being that long.

    #55423

    Anonymous

    What about your Z height ?

    #55424

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I don’t know that either. A couple of inches is plenty, really. I think I put 2″ in the calc, and just cut my pipes whatever the leftover was that I had. I don’t think they are super long. I never lift it that high. The thickest I’ve carved is 4/4″.

    #55425

    Anonymous

    If you remember did you have any binding in the Z axis?  One side on mine seems to bind a bit – though I am testing it upside down so that could contribute to it I suppose.

    #55427

    Barry
    Participant

    I think my threaded rod only hangs past the tubes a few inches.  12 inch tall tubes.

    #55447

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    If you remember did you have any binding in the Z axis? One side on mine seems to bind a bit – though I am testing it upside down so that could contribute to it I suppose.

    I did have binding. The first problem was the part that holds the not needs to hold it perfectly perpendicular to the screw, and mine was slightly off. I think I fixed it with some sanding, because the part want flat (elephant feet from my printer). Then, it was still a little binding, but when I added grease, it was fine.

    #55448

    Anonymous

    So you lube up the lowrider?

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