July 25, 2017 at 3:31 pm #39344
what are your favorite 3d printable cases for the mini rambo and LCD that you guy’s are using?July 26, 2017 at 12:18 am #39425
Here is a case that I have been working on for the Folgertech Delta. I have to replace the electronics on that machine & was originally going to use the arduino, but now I am probably going to use the Rambo mini. I was just looking at changing that to use the mini Rambo yesterday. To use it with the MPCNC, you would just need something screw the back to or it would be simple enough for me to make another optional back plate for it. I was going to upload it after I finished printing all the parts, but if you are interested in this design, I could upload it in the next couple of days after tweaking a little more. I remixed this from a design where I just had the LCD. You did not say which LCD you were using. This uses the 2004 LCD display.
Here is the design with just the LCD display
Attachments:July 26, 2017 at 6:36 am #39440
I have been looking around for a case for the rambo mini as well. I was planning on trying to draw something up once I decided on the table and how I am going to mount it. Figured maybe I would incorporate a couple of fan mounts into it to keep things cool. Its hot down here in Texas out in the shop. If I come up with something that works I will be sure to share as well.July 27, 2017 at 9:34 am #39554
Geodave I would be interested in the design for the MPCNC for sure!
I’m using the LCD that is available in the online store here:July 27, 2017 at 11:02 am #39559
That case looks fun and most of it can easily be cnc’d out….July 28, 2017 at 4:25 am #39609
I will see if I can make a version for the graphic display. I would probably have to make it a little taller for that display.July 30, 2017 at 6:11 pm #39791
geodave that would be awesome! I’ll def give it a shot if you post it up for us!July 31, 2017 at 7:42 am #39821
This is what I came up with so far. I shortened the length of the assembly by 20mm since the graphics display is so much shorter than the other display, but will probably make another version the same length as my original design because it looks like the USB cable might be difficult to get in there unless you take the end cap off or cut a hole in the end cap. I had to raise the height of it about 3/4″ for the taller graphic controller.
Attachments:July 31, 2017 at 7:53 am #39824
Nice work Dave! I may be interested in giving this a try. I don’t see any access holes though for the USB and SD card. Maybe I am just overlooking it or something.July 31, 2017 at 8:24 am #39826
Oops, I did miss the SD card access. I saw that problem initially, but forgot about it when working with the other design problems. The USB cable I was going to bring in from the back until I made this design shorter. I did mention the need to put a hole in the end cap for the USB.July 31, 2017 at 11:33 am #39842
After Johnny’s comments on this, I went back to the drawing board & think I have worked out the problems with the USB & the SD card. I took Ryan’s Full Graphic Smart Controller case & overlaid it on my design to get the SD card cutout. I decided to keep the length of this the longer length I had before. That way I should be able to design to use either the 2004 LCD controller or the Graphic controller. For the rest of the wiring, I am planning on those coming in the back. Since I will be using this on a Delta printer, all of those wires go into the printer & I will probably have the usb cable going that route also. For use with this MPCNC, seems like the simplest solution would be to make a wooden back with the holes to suit the individual. I will make a DXF profile of the outline & mounting holes to make that a little easier. I wanted to center this display in the faceplate, but having it to one side of the faceplate simplifies the design. The brackets will have captive nuts to use with the end caps. With the end caps assembled last, should be able to install all the parts. I attached updated images.
Attachments:July 31, 2017 at 12:52 pm #39846
Well done! I like it!August 1, 2017 at 4:37 am #39872
Looks good… I’d def try 3d printing it all to see how it works out.August 1, 2017 at 6:11 am #39876
Think I have all the problems I have seen worked out. I need to clean up the openscad code a little & will see if I can post it to thingiverse today or tomorrow. I do not know when I will have a chance to print these parts, but sounds like others are interesting in beta testing this design. This will work with Rambo Mini or the Arduino Mega.
It could also work with the Rambo if I add a little more depth to the brackets. The Rambo board is about 32mm wider than the Mini. That would change the brackets, end covers & top plate. The face plate & back would be the same. I have the Rambo on my Makerfarm i3v, but probably will use the Rambo Mini on my delta printer.
Since there was some empty space on the one side of face plate, I added an option to add 3 lines of text to that area. The image shows an example text you might put there. I was going to try adding Ryan’s logo on there, but since this is printed on the bottom, looked like it would have too much overhang in the cutout. This spot might also be a good place to put that big Emergency stop button.
I added a back plate to the design now with a couple of holes for the wires & dove tail joints to hold in place. The holes for that I sized to use the electrical endcaps in this thingiverse design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:978384
I could also add dovetail joints to the endcaps, but when I tested that idea a week or so ago, it was kind of difficult to get them off.
I have tested what I can of matching parts, but can not check the graphics display connection since I do not have that part yet. If someone can test print the faceplate, I have attached a zip file that has the openscad file of just the face plate portion along with the STL file for a .6mm height test print of the face plate & the full height version of the faceplate. If it does not quite fit & you are familiar with openscad, you should be able to adjust a variable or two in the openscad file & reprint the test, or if you can tell me how much any of the holes are off, I can generate another stl file.
Attachments:August 1, 2017 at 7:16 am #39881
I will try to take a look at it this evening when I get home and run the test file to check for fit with the LCD. I am not familiar at all with that cad program so will let you know how it turns out and if anything needs to be adjusted.August 1, 2017 at 4:54 pm #39902
Test file was a success. All the holes appear to line up. I will print the whole front plate next to check for fit and let you know.August 2, 2017 at 1:34 am #39914
really interested in this.August 2, 2017 at 1:59 am #39915
Cool, thanks for testing that. I have changed the front plate a little since that version, but only made it a curved edge at the top instead of the 45 angle cut. I also added the option for dove tail joints on the end caps. I think those dove tails will work on those now that I put a 3 small screw driver access slots on the brackets to make it easier to take the end caps off. Seemed like it was going to be difficult to put those end caps with screws and keep the locknuts in place unless they were set into the plastic with a soldering iron. I am going to test print a bracket & end cap today.August 2, 2017 at 5:28 am #39919
I pull the full faceplate off the printer this morning. Everything seems to line up and fit fine. However, I think it will need a stand off for the screws that mount the LCD on the right side of the screen. Since this doesnt stretch to the other end like your longer LCD there is a gap between the faceplate and the board on the LCD that wont be filled by the brackets on the ends. Other than that with the little speaker pressed against the faceplate the fit of the LCD face looks good.August 2, 2017 at 6:47 am #39923
That is a good point. Thanks for catching that. That could be fixed using 4mm long plastic spacers, but the enclosed photo of adding it to the faceplate is probably a better solution. I circled the tapered stand offs in red in the photo.
Attachments:August 2, 2017 at 7:39 am #39928
At looking at the photos of the graphic controller on this site, I am wondering if the bottom edge of the controller will miss the dove joint used for the end cap shown in the attached photo. This joint is only about 2.5mm above the bracket and looks like it should be ok. If it is a problem, I could always add a little more height to where the controller mounts to the side bracket or I could shorten the dovetail joint so it does not extend the full width of the bracket.
Attachments:August 3, 2017 at 5:35 am #39961
I was revisiting the dovetail joint connections yesterday. I was initially using .4mm clearance for the joints which is actually .2mm on each side of the joint. That was too loose, so changed it to .3mm (.15mm on each side) which felt good when using silver PLA+. When I changed to Red PLA+, that seemed a little loose. So now, I added 5 different clearance sizes, .15 (.075mm), .2 (.1mm), .25 (.125mm), .3 (.15mm) & .4mm (.2mm). There are actually 3 different size dovetail joints, so I added the option to use a different clearance on any of them since the end caps might want to be a tighter joint than the other 2. The female dovetail joints on the bracket stay the same. I made an option in the openscad file to test print these, so others can print a smaller print to see which size works best for them. I am going to test print them at .25mm clearance later this morning. If I cannot find anything else that bothers me about this design, I will release it later today or tomorrow on thingiverse. Here is a screen capture of the test prints for all the connections on the bracket.
Attachments:August 3, 2017 at 12:12 pm #39975
I finally got tired of making changes to it & posted the design on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2466915
Let me know if it works for you.August 3, 2017 at 3:54 pm #39987
I was not happy with the end caps not being snug, so I am making the dovetail joints for the end caps the same as the size for the top & back. I am not sure what my reasoning was for making those smaller. At any rate I am printing a new left bracket tonight & will try the newer version of the end cap in the morning. I will update those on thingiverse tomorrow. Seems like I always change at least one thing after uploading to thingiverse.August 4, 2017 at 6:45 am #40016
I updated the end caps, brackets & the arduino mount. I made the dovetail joints for the end caps the same size as I was using for the top & back plate & made them extend most of the width of the bracket. They are nice snug fit for me now. I also found a problem with the arduino mount. I had forgot that I was trying to make another mount 180 degrees for the arduino & messed up the design. I need to look at a different approach to rotating that design 180 than I was doing. For now I will leave it alone unless someone really needs that board oriented 180 degrees.August 12, 2017 at 4:34 pm #40958
Printed the enclosure for the rambo mini and LCD. Everything fits pretty good. The dove tails are a nice fit. The Prusa just didnt like the angle on the bottom of the front plate. Tried printing with support but they didnt even come up and touch it. Not sure what happened there. The SD card slot works. Only problem is with the SD Card in the end of the card ends up flush with the end plate. Makes it kind of a pain to get back out, but it will come out. Otherwise it all went together pretty well with plenty of room inside.August 12, 2017 at 4:45 pm #40962
BarryParticipantAugust 13, 2017 at 10:11 am #41052
Printed the enclosure for the rambo mini and LCD. Everything fits pretty good. The dove tails are a nice fit. The Prusa just didnt like the angle on the bottom of the front plate. Tried printing with support but they didnt even come up and touch it. Not sure what happened there. The SD card slot works. Only problem is with the SD Card in the end of the card ends up flush with the end plate. Makes it kind of a pain to get back out, but it will come out. Otherwise it all went together pretty well with plenty of room inside.
After playing with the parts with a LCD 2004, I added a half elliptical cutout for that gives more room. I attached a zlip file of the stl file if you want to try it. Should not take long to print it. I have not printed that front plate, but did not have a problem with printing it before & the profile of it is about the same as it was then. I am using the prusa slic3r with a makerfarm Prusa i3v printer.
I am currently updating this design to be a lot more customizable. It should work with both the graphics LCD & the LCD2004 & you can also make it wider or taller. I was also looking at making the front angle variable & think it can be done, but am going to let this design settle some before trying that again. I also am attaching 2 images showing the changes.
Attachments:August 14, 2017 at 1:02 pm #41241
I updated the openscad & STL files for this design today: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2466915
You can now use this with either the Graphics controller or the LCD2004 controller. I made the brackets so you can attach either type. I am printing all the parts to use with my Folgertech Kossel & the LCD2004. I will probably also print a faceplate for the Graphics controller. If you are familiar with openscad, you can now make the case just about any width or height you want as long as the printable parts will fit on your print bed. The length should probably stay the same because of how the LCD controllers are connected. I also got a little more carried away & allow for changing the angle of the front face. You will probably have adjust the height and width if changing that angle because of the LCD mounts. It seems to calculate it correctly, but getting the assembly correct in openscad is not quite right without fudging some of numbers.September 5, 2017 at 9:01 am #43275
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