- August 11, 2016 at 8:02 am #15961
@jason The Y has to move the larger bed either way. Modifying the Y is the easiest and requires you to make the side pieces longer equally front to back, Or just make custom extension corners…If you want to be the guinea pig I might be able to help you out in the next few days.August 11, 2016 at 6:42 pm #16026
Not sure about using the Menards hdpe for a printer frame. I’ve got a sheet of it in my barn and when it gets warm (upper 80’s F) it sags quite a bit. I was going to mill out scales for some armour with it, but it’s too thick, need about half the thickness of this stuff.August 12, 2016 at 4:17 am #16038
So far the frames I have cut are just as rigid as the mdf. I have had then in my garage for the past week or so. It was over 100° yesterday and they seem alright then again the pieces are so small in relation to the entire sheet. That may help quite a bit.
NeilAugust 12, 2016 at 4:51 am #16040
@vicious1 oh duh… I guess so eh… But I guess what I meant is so that the Y doesnt need to move the 300mm.. Let X move the extra distance.
I will be looking at it soon. I am very close to getting my CNC up and running for foam tests, then wood, then start cutting a larger printer. I am ok with sacrificing some speed for a larger bed. 300 x 300 would be even better. Seems like it should just be as simple as extending each axis by the same amount from the mid point, adding longer belts and rods.
Upgrading to 10mm rods on the Y would probably be a good idea. A Bowden extruder system should allow sticking with 8mm rods on X. I dont think i have seen any prusa style printers with 10mm X rods.August 12, 2016 at 9:32 am #16057
Extending the X is way more work, if you are thinking about mass, it is probably the same as an extruder. I would go with the Y, but either way. Maybe I can design a modular on next…August 23, 2016 at 3:07 am #16515
Black acrylic option.
Attachments:August 23, 2016 at 4:43 am #16519
Dang that is sexy, You have a place to source that acrylic for a decent price? I threw down $60 on a sheet of HDPE only to find out it was not flat (cut two sets of frames and neither were the same – cut another out of mdf and it was dead on…)
NeilAugust 23, 2016 at 4:45 am #16520
Note to others. Do not waste your money on the Menards HDPE 1/4″ sheet. It is warped beyond repair. I let it sit out in sun for 6 hours on top of a sheet of plywood (hoping it would get soft and level itself out). The stuff can not be used for dimensionally accurate cuts.
NeilAugust 23, 2016 at 8:10 am #16534
Makes good sacrificial hold downs though!August 23, 2016 at 8:22 am #16536
We are using local suppler in NJ. It is not cheep :-(, but Printer looks great by the end.August 25, 2016 at 5:40 pm #16730
I was researching replacements for LM8UU, one of the solutions use 3D printed from PLA. I try it before, but it was a challenge to make them perfectly feet on smooth rod. I found some trick end would like to try it in next build of MP3DP.
Just finished printing set of LM8UU from clear PLA. Picture attached, will let you know how it goes.
Attachments:September 5, 2016 at 8:25 am #17217
Alright, getting closer. Just need to throw on some belt (and find my leftover parts bin from the MPCNC build for my gt2 gears – missing one for y).
I think it looks alright.. should have painted the frame a color that varied from the printed parts, oh well.
NeilSeptember 5, 2016 at 8:33 am #17220
Thats looks sweet.
Must say i like the colour choise.September 5, 2016 at 8:57 am #17222
Looks good, great job! 🙂September 5, 2016 at 8:58 am #17223
DAM!!!!!!September 7, 2016 at 8:04 am #17374
quick question… what type of thermal paste does everyone use for the installation of the thermistor in the mk8 and heated bed?
NeilSeptember 7, 2016 at 9:17 am #17378
You don’t have to have it if you can tape over them with some kapton tape, but I use thermal adhesive, it’s like $2 on ebay. There are some reports of it throwing of the readings though. I’d rather have a reading off by a degree or two than risk having it fall out.September 7, 2016 at 11:59 am #17382
.September 8, 2016 at 6:05 am #17402
Another possibly goofy question, well maybe two (but figured I would ask now that I have three builds in progress). I am getting ready to flash your firmware you have listed “Check your z axis after flashing some lead screws actually need 788 instead of 800 steps per mm in the firmware.” how do I actually ‘check’ this.
You also mentioned that you may tweak the firmware a bit to help with blowing components on the ramps. I am assuming there is a way to gradually heat the hot-end then the heated bed, vs heating them both up at the same time? If this is the case how would one go about that (sorry new to marlin). I am throwing these two extra machines together to give to a couple of friends here at work. I want to limit the headaches they have in the future (or should I say headaches I have, lol).
Thanks again for this excellent machine Ryan (btw you getting rod sets in again soon? I need one more set)!
NeilSeptember 8, 2016 at 11:53 am #17408
For the z axis you just physically measure. Tell to to move 100 and check it with calipers or print a 1oomm tall part and see what happens.
Turns out it was just the one crappy bed I got from a crappy printer, Doesn’t happen with any other bed I have tried. If you want to be extra safe add a fan to your ramps or a heatsink to the mosfet parallel with the d8-10 block (or both).
Rods are on order but my vendor just switched my rep and she isn’t very good at her job, normally I could give a time frame but she hasn’t even shipped my first order yet, and the rods are on the second…September 9, 2016 at 5:47 am #17440
So I am thinking I may try to mod in this Tiny OLED I2C screen with knob and micro sd card reader into the top portion of the frame assuming the knob will not interfere with the x-axis…
mod is here: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,499572
could look pretty slick vs the giant full graphics screen (nice screen just takes up a lot of real estate).
could move it to the front xyplate if I had to i guess…
Attachments:September 9, 2016 at 6:06 am #17443
Wow, looks cool…
I can provide supply of them on the future if Ryan will include them in his design 🙂
Attachments:September 9, 2016 at 7:06 am #17447
you offer those on your site twelvepro? I was not able to locate them. I was planning on rigging it up diy but if the price is right…
NeilSeptember 9, 2016 at 7:23 am #17449
It is not in stock yet, but I can get them if needed.September 9, 2016 at 9:18 am #17458
Looks like a nice little setup, You would loose a bit of z travel up there, The know would hit the carriage at the top but not that big of a deal. How much are they and does marlin support them yet in RC7? I get a constant stream of questions about just installing the UG8Lib I could only imagine if there needed to be firmware edits as well.September 9, 2016 at 1:19 pm #17471
That I do not know. I just assumed it would work dang it lol. I will probably take a peek at it this weekend (its raining here.. may be stuck inside with the kids)..
NeilSeptember 9, 2016 at 1:48 pm #17473
I’ve had pretty good luck swapping around u8g displays without a lot of recoding. Wiring isn’t always easy though.
You’ll for sure have to swap the initial declaration to match the new display and probably the initial rotation and such…September 10, 2016 at 8:00 am #17492
the ol’ mp3dp is just waiting on a bed thermistor. In the meantime it produced this! It squirts neoprene and vinyl!
Attachments:September 10, 2016 at 8:08 am #17494
Ummmm, Heck yes! I would love to use that picture, mind if I put it on thingiverse for the MP3DP?
Now, turn it to the side lets see your wires….You build a sexier printer than me but I am pretty good with wire wrangling.September 10, 2016 at 8:16 am #17495
yeah I need a bit of schooling there lol.. I am not even fully wired yet and its is already a mess..
here are the original pics do with them whatever you please lol.
I need to look at a few more of your pics and see what I can do to hide these wires better..
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