March 27, 2016 at 2:05 pm #9729
A 40W laser is going to be a tube style, and they’re about 2 feet long. They look just like this.
Actually this is an 80W tube, so it’s bigger, but you get the idea.March 27, 2016 at 7:06 pm #9736
i guess ill wait for the Glowforge to be commercially available 🙂March 27, 2016 at 8:15 pm #9737
Done for the day, power it up tomorrow. Spent way to long getting the wires pretty, without ever testing it first. You know what that means, I am bound to have a wiring issue.
– Minor edit to the mk mount, add some holes to the sides for the power supply, maybe some extra holes for cable ties.
– Release it to you animals.
– Then put the rest of the hardware in the assembly so I can release the BOM.
Not happy with the z home screw, It is going to be a long one….
Attachments:March 27, 2016 at 8:30 pm #9740
it looks glorious to me… is the x carriage removeable? swappable for another toolhead?
looks so good man. for any company/person.March 27, 2016 at 8:36 pm #9741
It does just snap right off but I didn’t add any fancy quick connectors, because I doubt I will ever swap it, just easier to get to filament issues. I run out all the time and have to dig it out.March 27, 2016 at 8:39 pm #9742
I can’t wait to print one in ABS, and put it on eBay 🙂March 27, 2016 at 8:42 pm #9743
As long as you fix all it’s shortcomings and don’t reference me at all! 😉
I feel like such a whiny little girl about that but it did piss me off. Maybe I should stop checking my email before coffee, set the tone for the whole day!March 28, 2016 at 3:05 am #9744
The design of the printer is nice and clean. But.. i must say it, you have designed a prusa?!?
Overall your design is pretty good, you have lots of talent. But in my opinion is was wasted because you have chose to build a prusa model.
Do not get me wrong, in not where to criticize your printer. But the prusa models are for beginners, and there are always a first printer to be replaced with something better. The only reason of is success is because is easy to understand.
Why you have not chose to design a “top” printer that can be build with the help of your mpcnc?
There are betters mechanical designs to chose for a 3D printer, like corexy, hbot or even a delta.
With an mpcnc is possible to build this type of printer, for example check the SmartrapCore (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:651117) is a cheap and superior printer that any type of prusa.
The prusa was too many mechanical flaws.
– bed moving on the Y axis, this not allow to print fast and is easy to get artifacts on the print.
– The printer must be small on the Z axis
– not easy to enclosure (very important to print with abs)
– too much unprotected mechanical parts.
– overall they are uglyMarch 28, 2016 at 4:15 am #9745
This one too: (corexy CNC style):
I’have a Smatrapcore wood (I totally redesign it, because there are some mistakes on the original design: belt touching himself in +Ymax, misalignment of the belts, etc. I use the Andreas’Z axe add-on and the top beast extruder Gunstruder ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1247952 ). The main problem is the noise: don’t use plain board to make it, it’s really noisy! I drill big holes everywhere and now it’s a lot better. But for a really cheap ‘second’ printer, I admit than my prints are really clean (way cleaner than all prusa-style printer I saw).March 28, 2016 at 7:34 am #9748
Well I think the speed benefits of the machines you listed are just from the bowden and it’s less moving mass. Which you can’t get with a moving bed, true. Two things about that, I don’t like bowden (stringy, hard on the extruder motor, wastes filament) and I have never successfully printed much faster than 35mm/s without losing strength in the z direction.
With producing parts on 6 printers speed would mean higher profits but on all of my printers layer bonding has not been as strong at high speed, even if I turn up the extrusion temp. Quality over quantity for items I sell. Nice for rapid prototyping not “production”.
I actually love the prusa design, very close to idea in my opinion. Not sure about the artifacts. If I run this one and only get artifacts in the y direction, I will look into it. My other printers have artifacts in the X and Y direction.
I used to use an airwolf and changed out the bowden for a wade’s, parts are on thingiverse. I really didn’t see an advantage to that style. Takes more parts and bearings to build as well.
I don’t print in ABS ever. I much prefer PET it doesn’t seem to have the same need for an enclosure and prints like a dream. Very similar properties, if not preferable to me.
I would love to make another printer. I wasn’t trying to redesign anything I just wanted a better one that was cheaply available. I based this design of the smaller prusa rods so it would be readily available. Makes for an easy project, few parts.
Not a delta fan, they look amazing and are amazing machinery but again, I don’t see an advantage. I also have limited space and rack mount my little print farm.
So in summary. Built as an easily sourced project for my needs. Not trying to out design any of the 1000 printers already saturating the market. As soon as I update the MPCNC I would love to take all the suggestions and build a new printer, but the cnc is my main focus. I need a few more printers for production solves my problem, on to the next.March 28, 2016 at 8:23 am #9749
Deltas: there are fast overall, but not allow a direct extruder, retractions problems, very difficult to configure.
hbot: need a very rigid structure and robust linear movements or else the print will be deformed.
corexy: almost no flaws, the only i can indicate is the length of the belts if you build a big printer.
I have before a prusa steel model and now i have an corexy printer. The corexy beats the prusa in speed, print quality and reliability by miles.
Your mpcnc use a very similar mechanism of a ultimaker. Is an design that prove is possible to build a good cnc with cheap hardware, but i think is main success was because you have chose a great mechanical design at first.
My corexy is a dual direct mk8 extruder (carriage of 800gr) and allow me to print without any artifact up to 80mm/s.
If you have some time check some corexy printers, i think there are the best mechanical design you can chose.
a link of my printer: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1003119March 28, 2016 at 8:43 am #9750
Focus on MPCNC, because there’s a new 3D printer every 20min :=)
The Itopie exists already and match all of you goal (with a lot of option, prusa i3 compatible, a perfect documentation, tested and corrected by a lot of people, totally customizable with generator…fast to print, to mill and to build…). But it’s still a cartesian, a perfect printer for beginner, easy to build, to understand, but a bit slow. Or continue to make your own one, like we all do, because we all have different needs. But it takes some time to do a 3D printer from A to Z (we are human -> mistakes, try again, etc…)
I’m not agree with what you think about bowden: my bowden is short, the Gunstruder push the filament without grinding it, with muuuuch more torque than all my precedent extruder (mk7, mk8, direct, wades, beast_reprapworld_hobbed_bolt, etc), the motor stay cold, no stringing, no oozing…My printed parts for the MPCNC took me half the time you wrote and they are clean and strong (and I printed them slowly to avoid any mistake). I can print everything (soft filament, etc…).
It’s not just about mass and inertie moreover: 2 or 3 motors running almost always together have more torque in average. I read an article about that from a mathematician, but I don’t remember what is was exactly, but in conclusion of the article : delta could be faster, then corexy, then cartesian (from what I remember).
BUT! It took me a lot of time to make my corexy to work perfectly, and I had some experiences already. The BOM is long, the build was long, the calibration long, etc…It’s not perfect….March 28, 2016 at 9:07 am #9752
This thread is about is new prusa printer and not the mpcnc.
I have a lot of respect for the work of vicious, and i was waiting for is new printer. Only today i see it was finished. I was pretty sure it was designing a ultimaker like printer (was is the mpcnc), but i was disappointed to see it was a “simple” prusa….
To be honest i only started this discussion in the hope to convince to design a printer that use a corexy or ultimaker movement.March 28, 2016 at 9:29 am #9754
I love it!
It might not be as masterfully engineered as other printers, or fast at printing things, but it looks incredibly simple to build and is a great project to utilize the mpcnc. Plus the BOM is low cost, and it already uses the extruder sold here for the mpcnc.
Can’t wait to see how it prints! If it is decent, I would love to build one. Some of the other printers people linked are cool, and some even more simplistic than this, but they are big and take up a lot of room. If I could build a few of these for a relatively low cost, it would open up 3D printing for other students in a very affordable way for the college. If we find that they get used a lot, then it isn’t hard to slap another one together.March 28, 2016 at 4:23 pm #9772
I missed this thread when it started. I like Ryan’s designs and I am looking forward to building one of these. I already have my PSM and the MK8 on my MPCNC but I am always looking for the next adventure.March 29, 2016 at 5:11 am #9782
I like the look of this. Looks awesome.March 29, 2016 at 5:06 pm #9800
Anybody have a name for this thing? Am I really going to do another “MP”?
Putting a page together now. Link it in a bit. New category “project”. I think the printer is considered an advanced project?
I want to do some more mpcnc parts next, and I finally have an lcd case idea, it will be an intermediate poject I think. milled or printed front and back panels, printed side caps…should be cool.March 29, 2016 at 6:42 pm #9828
Since it requires parts to be milled by the MPCNC I suggest MPCNC3DP. Wow, that is a lot longer seeing it typed out than it was when I had it in my head. I am looking forward to making one.March 29, 2016 at 7:00 pm #9831March 29, 2016 at 8:33 pm #9839
So i crunched the numbers, i think it comes out to about $375 in hardware costs based on the links provided.
I have a bunch of end stops, so i didnt need those extra couple of bucks.
So other than a 10 dollar piece of wood, or acrylic (i may do mine in acrylic) thats fairly good.
thanks for doing this Ryan 🙂March 30, 2016 at 4:50 am #9844
This is really cool. I may end up trying to make this once I get my MPCNC finished. I’m thinking you can even cut more costs if you source the smooth and threaded rods locally. I’ve purchased them locally from Tractor Supply for over a 1/3 of the price then compared to online. I already have a makerfarm i3 prusa, but i think it would be awesome to have this as well.March 30, 2016 at 5:00 am #9845
This looks like a great design… ingeniously simplified.
I can’t help but think that the biggest commoditization of 3d printers will come from closed loop control so we can ditch expensive stepper motors.March 30, 2016 at 5:53 am #9847
I forgot the steppers. so it looks like its more like 425$ in hardware costs, plus the wood.
Starting to get up there for sure… I thought it may be able to be done cheaper. But the linear bearings are nice, etc. so i think this should/could produce high quality prints at a fairly low price all things considered.March 30, 2016 at 6:45 am #9848
I could see myself printing and milling the parts for this, even if I don’t ever get around to finishing it. It seems like a neat project. I’m glad I didn’t make my first printer, but I would like to have the pride that comes with making my second.
Hopefully one of you guys can make one soon, so we can get some good videos and pictures of it printing. I’m still finishing my MPCNC…March 30, 2016 at 7:20 am #9849
I was absolutely going to make one of these, although im out of town until monday. I was a little surprised by the hardware costs. I expected it to be about half of what it was. Thats not a dig on ryan or the design or anything, I just wasnt aware what the actual cost of this stuff was. Those linear bearings are a lot (but needed for good quality prints) but increase the price 125$.
I may still make this printer, ill just have to see what makes sense.March 30, 2016 at 7:24 am #9850
There are some 3d Printable ones: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24990
Some people have been having success with them, after printing, scaling, printing, testing. etc.
Also, I think they should be a lot cheaper than that. I’ve heard the really crappy ones from China are about a 50% failure rate, but if they cost 10% of the good ones…March 30, 2016 at 7:45 am #9851
Wait, that price is for 12. $12.99 and you get 2 spares.
I have a set coming from boca but there price is much higher, even if I buy 900 at a time (everything they have).March 30, 2016 at 7:46 am #9852
So those links are for information, you can find some of those parts much cheaper if you do some digging. I can look into making a bundle to try and get the prices down a bit further.March 30, 2016 at 8:03 am #9854
aHHHH, i didnt see that that was for quantity 12.. i thought it seemed overly expensive haha.
that saves a good bit of money, like 112$ haha.
now its better 🙂March 30, 2016 at 10:22 am #9855
Ted, I’m just curious why you went with the double lead screws with brass(?) nuts instead of all-thread. Also what wood did you end up using for the frame? 1/4″ MDF? I’m probably going to build an iTopie using 1/2″ MDF instead of yours. I like the idea of the slots and tabs. I’m also thinking that the horizontal plate will keep things more square.
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