Lowrider2 from Minnesota

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider Lowrider2 from Minnesota

This topic contains 6 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  Jake 1 month, 2 weeks ago.

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    Eric Koch

    Thanks Ryan! Big props on the design of the parts and the ease of the kit.

    My goals for this is something that could do signs and some woodworking projects I have in mind including some cribbage boards and doing some end milling/pockets for mortise and tendons. A working area of 24″ x 48″.

    I have my table mostly done. The top is an only office table that is 1 1/4″ thick particle board. It is really flat and thanks to some good guides for my circler saw is very exact (I am within 1/32″ on all dimensions and corner to corner). The bottom is another old office table someone built as a utility table for setting computers (old tower servers). It is really dense particle board. Both are heavy and sold. The bottle table is going to get a vise mounted in the wings of the top so the router can run over the top of the vise for end milling. For now the top is just sitting on the table until I get the vise mounted.

    I did .085″ wall tubes since I am planning running some higher z heights with long bits to do the end milling and I wanted it STIFF. I figured with the smaller size the extra weight of the tubes would not be an issue.

    I have it up and running after some wiring brain farts and got the gcode crown printed (sloppiness is from the pen holder I used, not the machine – https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3541574). I cracked a couple of the XZ’s so I am reprinting them (they had some printing issues that lead to the crack, slicer was not liking me). My next big task is to get the wires cleaned and sleeved. I have a couple of Ikea tape measures waiting for cable guides.

    My z is binding a bit and will not drop completely on its own when I power down. I have loosened and retightened most of the bolts and screws, so I am guessing it is sloppiness in the cutting of my Y plates. I used https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3364669 and cut it out with a templating bit on my router table and drilled the holes with my drill press and it flexed a few times. I also printed a template for the router plate on my Ender 3 (printed in 2 pieces that I glued back together, I will throw the files on Thingiverse sometime). Once I have it ready to run one of its first jobs will be cutting new y plates.

    Let me know any thoughts. It will be an adventure and that is my main goal.

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    Eric Koch

    One quick question, the smart controller case (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1562144) didn’t allow the knob to click down. See attached photo. I ended up just cutting out the material around the know to make it work for tonight, but I am doing something wrong or is my controller knob shorter than normal?




    I want to build a way to do end milling in my LR too. I’m jealous. That table looks good and stout too. Milling a tenon will be easy, as long as you can set up the job precisely. I would try to find a good way to make sure the stock is square to the gantry and it will save some time if you have something to register it against for zero (although not critical). I have dreams of making pantarouter quality joints with it.

    The strength of the Z decreases exponentially with height, so the lower you can mount the stuff, the better.

    If you have any trouble with the wheels tracking straight, then put some strips on the inside to keep them from driving side to side.

    Regarding Z binding, did you grease your leadscrews? Are the Z pipes parallel to each other in both directions? Are the leadscrews going straight into the nuts? Ryan can also find errors from photos from all sides of the gantry. He has spent enough time looking at it, I guess.

    I think I remember someone else having that knob issue. I made (frankensteined, really) this case from a lot of other good cases. Maybe the knob can help you?


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    Looks good. I wouldn’t worry about it dropping under it’s own weight, never something I would call important. The knob, some are tighter than others, someone came up with a cool trick to put a tiny piece of ziptie in the knob slit to keep it up 1/8″. Can wait to see how the fancy joints come out.

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    Eric Koch

    I printed a couple of replacement parts and was going to get it finished up…Instead I made dust!


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    Ned van Geffen

    i put some tape under the board for the knob to work as it was flexing the PCB too much. Works good so far?

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    I’ve been having the same issue with the knob and my printed case. My solution was to pull the knob off and shove something up in there so when I slide it back on it sits higher. Has been working great so far.

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