LowRider-inspired Foam Ripper

New Home Forum Things You Have Made LowRider-inspired Foam Ripper

This topic contains 50 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  dkj4linux 2 months ago.

Viewing 21 posts - 31 through 51 (of 51 total)
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  • #97807

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    For completeness sake… when I last left off with FoamRipper, I was starting to wander off into an area I have less interest in, and practically no use for, given that I’m no longer really cutting, building, decorating, and flying planes. So, I weenied out again, and chose to concentrate on the machine itself… specifically, the FoamRipper’s carriage, Z-axis, and needle-cutter.

    FRneedle_cutter-sideways

    If interested, the development of this carriage and cutter is detailed in two RC forum threads… refer to either of these for more information regarding the carriage and needle cutter construction and design.

    https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/cutting-foam-sheets-with-a-needle.24251/page-122#post-465429

    https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2566143-Mostly-Printed-CNC-and-cutting-foam/page12#post41499651

    I suppose to make this particular activity more appropriate for this site, I can share video and photos of the obligatory MPCNC crown… turn down the sound!

    This is DTFB… the Adams papered-foamboard available at most dollar-stores. The paper is what causes the most grief when cutting it… the fuzziness on the cut edges is the paper but the foam is cut clean. Unpapered foams cut very cleanly. Here, the crown stayed on the spoilboard when the waste was lifted…

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    Gently working the piece loose… everything loosened, with paper intact….

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    Top and bottom sides…

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    A more “normal” job for the FoamRipper and needle cutter is cutting plane parts…

    The carriage, Z-axis, and needle cutter are now up on Thingiverse

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3582124

    So I think this brings FoamRipper to a reasonably complete state and I’ll let it be. Thanks to all who’ve shown interest and suffered through!

    — David

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #97832

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is amazing that it holds all that detail in the crown and you can just slide the pieces apart. Slick!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103745

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    A bit of digression, some exploration, a dose of boredom, 3dprinter sitting idle, parts on hand, a whim of fancy, and a bit of folly… it’s PLAYTIME! Can’t nap all the time 😉

    Poor FoamRipper. Built originally with Marlin/Mega/RAMPS, I recently took a nostalgic trip back in time to convert it over to LinuxCNC, the control software I started with, way back in my initial forays into CNC. I had used it, along with SketchUp and the Phlatboyz CAM extensions, to create gcode for all the little bluecore fan-fold foam aircraft my late flying/fishing buddy and I flew in my pasture… as well as all the parts for a second CNC machine for him. I really do like LinuxCNC and thoroughly enjoyed developing the inexpensive LinuxCNC interface documented in this thread… but, by today’s standards (Marlin/Grbl), it is a bit big and clunky. And since there seems little interest, beyond my own, and my curiosity is now satisfied, it’s time to move on to something new…

    I’ve built more than a dozen CNC machines over the past several years and virtually all of them started with Marlin/Mega/RAMPS. Since I had a number of the little board sets that I knew worked, I kept using them. One of the machines still in use, an MPCNC laser engraver, sports a miniRambo board now…. having been used to help debug the laser raster-engraving issue in newer versions of Marlin.

    Somewhere along the way, however, I picked up a couple of MKS Gen L v1.0 controllers. I don’t remember exactly why… other than they were supposedly 100% compatible with the Mega/RAMPS combo I’d been using and was so familiar with.

    The digression and exploration… I reverted to the Marlin/Mega/RAMPS scheme from before. However, I used the MKS Gen L v1.0 board this time. I flashed it with the Marlin/RAMPS firmware from this site and applied the RAMPS “pin44 remap” mod (isolated white wire) and set it up for the full-graphics LCD display.

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    The isolated white and gray wires are the RAMPS “remapped Fan1 to pin 44” mod for TTL laser modulation, using M107 and M106 Sxxx gcodes for control…

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    Boredom and fancy… I had thought I might play with putting a laser on the FoamRipper. Pretty useless, really — diode lasers won’t cut foam-board — but I thought it could be fun to play with as an engraver. So, my compact carriage and Z-lift got a new appendage and became a bit the monstrosity… sporting one of the Eleksmaker 2.5 watt laser modules I had on hand. Pen/marker, needle-cutter, and now laser… all mounted on the same carriage together.

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    And, in action…

    So, it works… but is of dubious value. But it keeps me off the streets and gives me something to do between naps

    — David

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #104302

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    Adventures in air-assist…

    Still a fan of “pawpawpaw85″‘s air-assist shroud I’ve used several times, I’ve discovered one I think I like a bit more… “danwar”‘s “Laser Air Assist Shroud” (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2626593). I’ve replaced the radial fan, however, with a small printed adapter that allows connection of some vinyl tubing (3/8″ ID x 1/2″ OD) from the big box store. At the other end, I’ve connected a fairly nice, relatively quiet, air pump… powered by an inexpensive router speed control, for adjusting the flow of air from nozzle.

    A crude test over the range of the speed control, showing the air flow from MIN to MAX…

    Here’s the air pump, router speed control, and vinyl tubing connected through another printed adapter…

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    Shroud with printed adapter and vinyl tubing…

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    Mounted on the FoamRipper’s laser housing…

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    Top-view…

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    and “shades of gray” test run.

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    Later.

    — David

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    #104315

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    What is that pump from, is it a mini vacuum in reverse? That seems like a great idea, some can’t handle any sort of back pressure but that seems to be doing great.

    #104317

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    That’s actually an OzarkTrail air-mattress pump my kids left behind when they moved. I found a couple of Coleman air pumps as well… but they are considerably louder.

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    #104334

    Barry
    Participant

    Neat!  I have a couple of those inflator thingies around here somewhere.

    #104335

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I have the loud ones. The NiCd version died, so I soldered a lipo connector to it. It’s still loud, but much lighter (and dangerous!).

    #105776

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    Further adventures with a 2.5 watt Eleksmaker laser, cutting/engraving, and air-assist…

    After noting a stronger, higher-pressure blast with the Loc-line flexible coolant hose and nozzle, I decided to try printing a nozzle extender for the stock nozzle for Danowar’s most-excellent air-assist shroud…

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    All these pieces (no, he doesn’t need ALL of them but I needed a test subject…) were cut and engraved with the same 2.5 watt laser…. starting with the cereal-box cardboard (chipboard?) on the far left and — going clock-wise — 3mm birch plywood, stencil board, and the last two, 5mm luan plywood from the big-box store…

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    For cleanest, crispest detail, I’ve found that the nozzle-extender cone is best used for cutting and the stock nozzle for engraving… thankfully it’s simple to put on and take off. Engraving — with the extender — I got a “smudged”/”smokey”/”charred” look… without the extender, I got the lighter, crisper, cleaner engraving. Below, the same file, same material, and exact same laser settings… but with the extender (left) and without (right)…

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    These two 5mm luan plywood pieces were engraved with the same file and laser settings…. the darker engraving (background) was with the extender cone, the lighter one without…

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    More to come. This is fun stuff…

    — David

    #105785

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    With the extender cone, and MAX air-blast from the OzarkTrail air pump, I was able to cut materials I haven’t been able to cut previously… all the way up to 5mm luan construction plywood/paneling from the big-box store…

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    This is not fast, mind you… but it is possible, with patience. I’m not sure exactly how many passes it actually took to cut completely through on the outline cut… but I was sure it was cut through after 11 passes at full-power, full-air, and 100 mm/min feed rate. It could have been 8, 9, 10… or 11. I use a rather crude way to not lose count… placing another item in the string when starting each 6 minute outline run…

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    With patience — and ABSOLUTE BEST FOCUS and STRONG AIR-ASSIST — it is possible to work your way through material a lot of folks say is not possible to cut with such a low-power laser. I really think it is the smaller spot size. I was a bit surprised, several years ago, to find that my first 3.5 watt lasers didn’t seem any more “powerful” than the 2 and 2.7 watt laser I’d played with previously… so I’m pretty sure its a “power density” thing; i.e. 2.5 watts concentrated in a “unit area” is more “powerful” than 3.5 watts spread over 4X that “unit area”.

    I’m going to stop here for now. Having a “blast”… with air-assist 😉

    — David

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #105794

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    If you cut any thicker material, you’ll need to make more rulers to count 🙂

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #105823

    Jamie
    Participant

    Start making “Happy 71st” and next year you can unload all your failed tests (or successful tests for that matter).

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #106396

    Bill
    Participant

    Actually you could just use a couple of rulers and move your pointer an inch each time… As long as you don’t bump into it. 🙂

    #106410

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    Actually you could just use a couple of rulers and move your pointer an inch each time… As long as you don’t bump into it. 🙂

    Metric only… 25.4 mm 😉

    #106473

    Bill
    Participant

    That’s way to accurate… ‘Around 25mm’ each time works better. I only use inches since the rulers themselves were in inches. 🙂

    #106482

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    That’s way to accurate… ‘Around 25mm’ each time works better. I only use inches since the rulers themselves were in inches. 🙂

    “the” rulers? YOUR rulers, maybe… not mine. That’s the beauty of engraving your own… you can make them whatever you want; i.e. “semi-inches”,  “half-knuckles”, “double-freckles”, “big toenails”, etc 😉

    #106483

    Bill
    Participant

    Ah, I see it now that you have mentioned it… They are in CM and MM. So the move is ‘about 1cm’ not ‘about 1in’. 🙂

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #106494

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    You could make a shrink ruler!

    https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-C375-12-Graduations-English-Thickness/dp/B000VDXJTU

    “A contraction rule is made having larger divisions than standard measures to allow for shrinkage of a metal casting. They may also be known as a shrinkage or shrink rule.”

    Of course, if you make one, that will be the only one you can find when you need a ruler.

    #106495

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    I personally believe it’s only right and proper to try making a ruler with these slick machines we’re building. It’s very satisfying to see them match up quite nicely with a commercial ruler. I put it right up there with the “MPCNC crown” 😉

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #106511

    TJ
    Participant

    Any reason your using 2.5W and not something stronger? Im not sure what the biggest laser module is that you can use in this application without mirrors, but I’m really interested to know what’s possible.

    #106520

    dkj4linux
    Participant

    Any reason your using 2.5W and not something stronger? Im not sure what the biggest laser module is that you can use in this application without mirrors, but I’m really interested to know what’s possible.

    I’ve actually been using 3.5 watt Banggood lasers for a couple of years… and before that I had a couple of lower-powered lasers; i.e. a  2 watt unit and later a 2.7 watt IIRC. Repeating what I said a few posts above, about the smaller spot size of the lower-powered lasers, “.. I was a bit surprised, several years ago, to find that my first 3.5 watt lasers didn’t seem any more ‘powerful’ than the 2 and 2.7 watt laser I’d played with previously… so I’m pretty sure its a “power density” thing; i.e. 2.5 watts concentrated in a ‘unit area’ is more ‘powerful’ than 3.5 watts spread over 4X that ‘unit area’.”

    I was doing these tests over two years ago and had just starting to play with air-assist…

    https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/cutting-foam-sheets-with-a-needle.24251/page-43#post-321202

    Since then I’ve devised a stronger air-assist setup and, hopefully, learned a few things along the way. Among them, “.. With patience — and ABSOLUTE BEST FOCUS and STRONG AIR-ASSIST — it is possible to work your way through material a lot of folks say is not possible to cut with such a low-power laser.” Translated, I can now cut thicker materials with a 2.5 laser — with its smaller spot size — than I can with the 3.5 watt lasers I have been playing with for the past couple of years. It’s not a fast process or suitable for production work — and many/most people don’t seem to have the time or patience to even try it — but I’m finding it’s possible to do far more with these little lasers than what most people think. Retired, I DO have both the time and patience — and interest — to mess with it and see what it can do.

    That said, I haven’t yet used the stronger air-assist with my 3.5 watt laser. Tests are ongoing.

    — David

     

     

     

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