December 25, 2016 at 8:15 pm #23374
I think You all need to get this song in your ear holes before you go any further, https://youtu.be/-xTGrfs5TXM
It got it’s name for a bunch of reasons. First, it is super low profile like a lowrider that is barely able to get over a speed bump. When you power it down it lowers like it was on hydraulics (not a good feature but it is there for now). An most importantly, lowriders are custom built, you can’t buy one complete and call it your own unless you get your hands dirty. you need to build it yourself. When its done it may or may not be fast but it looks good, so cruise it slow and low with pride when you make your cuts.
Okay now here we go. I will fill in details when I’m ready. If mercadolibre would be a responsible company I would have released this a week ago. As it stands I will wait until I figure out what to do. Gunna have to get a few brave souls to beta test but I will figure that out as the parts start to arrive.
This is by request a full 4’x8′ (or it can go bigger but really??!!) Very loosely based on the Printrbot crawlbot with the CEO Brook Drumm’s permission. As far as I know I used none of the printrbots parts. I took a look at there pics, made some choices, and designed it all from scratch. If anyone thinks I might be using something of theirs let me know so I can give them more credit. The crawlbot is a cool machine and a well executed idea.
Price – Just a bit more than the MPCNC. It uses almost all the same parts, I think less printing but requires some cnc’d parts and more belt. Price coming soon. The first run will be limited due to China’s month long vacation. That gives lots of time for a solid beta test.
There are some immediately apparent drawbacks. Visibility of the bit is very minimal, but as most of you know the sound tells a much better picture anyway. Using the lower friction T8 leadscrews means the brass nuts will need to be replaced once and a while and on power off the gantry will lower. There are some workarounds I need to try a bit more, but really a good ending g-code will make it work for now.
Accuracy was spot on in a few trial I have run. Of course I will be doing many many more before releasing the files.
The lowRider CNC’s first public cruise….
December 25, 2016 at 8:38 pm #23377
So cool. When are we gonna see some chips fly?December 25, 2016 at 8:47 pm #23378
I was test cutting with it and had to clean everything up to make this little vid. I did a faster set of cuts to see if anything got funny and to test out your post processor some more. It went very well. I cut some 50mm squares with a few features in it so I can change speeds and cut it quickly. The first one I popped out was 50.oomm x 50.05mm (with cheapie calipers)…in 1/2″ OSB. Running faster than I do on the MPCNC.
I am purposely holding off on too much detail for now. Just in case the whole thing doesn’t work…who knows. I still have not cut a long job or anything too big, or tested to see how fast it can be pushed. I did cut a logo out at 4′ by about 2.5’…I did the order of operations wrong so I had to stop it before it completed.
I’m wondering how it will track on large jobs. I am kinda thinking there should be a lift and drive the full length of the Y axis cut and return to the origin before you start each cut to make sure every cut is good. To clarify if it was to start crooked it would bump of the sides/rails and possibly be off track a tiny bit, but if you drove the length and returned it would pre-bump I think. It’s big, all new issues could happen.December 25, 2016 at 8:55 pm #23381
So awesome and actually pretty clean for such a radical redesign!December 25, 2016 at 9:57 pm #23383
Wow!December 26, 2016 at 3:21 am #23389
Unreal. I love the way it works! Can not wait to see how she cuts.
NeilDecember 26, 2016 at 5:54 am #23397
Dude! That’s freaking cool!December 26, 2016 at 6:52 am #23398
But, can you put an extruder on it and make an actual lowrider?
How am I going to convince my wife that I need this? Any ideas?December 26, 2016 at 3:40 pm #23443
I can see I’m eventually going to need a bigger garage… 🙂December 26, 2016 at 4:06 pm #23445
Me too, you can see it takes up pretty much all of mine.
Maybe next is the fully automatic table, transforms all the way down to a small pile of wood from the 5×9 table….December 27, 2016 at 5:00 am #23520
Depending on the gcode, your current table can do that!December 27, 2016 at 7:04 am #23522
How much is the movement guided by the workpiece size?
I mean, can we cut <4 ft with this?
Great to see, looks like you changed the game again. Finger crossed it all gets ironed out. I am confident it will.December 27, 2016 at 8:56 am #23526
Barry, I can use use this table and rapidly downsize it for sure. That whole transform back into a table is the hard part.
James, are you asking if we can cut small stuff as well? No doubt, very easily. I have been cutting 50mm squares as testers. Need to find something cool to use as a test part for all the cnc. I end up will all kinds of weird shapes laying around. When I test cut new material. Maybe I will start a collage on the wall with them.December 27, 2016 at 11:55 am #23541
I was just about to start a standard build. If you want I can build this as a beta test. I have a I3 clone and access to cnc mill and lathe.December 27, 2016 at 12:56 pm #23553
Will the torsion box table be part of the design? It would be cool to have an extensible torsion box table pattern.. Seems like just having interlocking pieces with qvarrying lengths to ensure you can build it from any size CNC would work..December 27, 2016 at 1:02 pm #23554
I didn’t use any interlocking pieces. I can put up the dimensions for what I used but no real plans unless I come up with something cool.
Interlocking generally needs the exact same material thickness, and a large enough router to cut them. Without a large cnc it takes a lot of work to get accurate pieces.
I try to build everything as basic as possible to make it as accessible as possible to a wide audience.December 27, 2016 at 1:13 pm #23555
Fair enough. I may try to make my own then.. So for planning to build this, what should the tickness of the table be?December 27, 2016 at 1:15 pm #23558
What I meant was, let’s say I have a 3 ft square sheet, can I use the Lowrider to cut parts from that sheet? Or does the design require a starting workpiece that is 4 ft wide?December 27, 2016 at 1:16 pm #23559
3-4″, 4″ being better, but no more. I used 3.5″ and have some nice trim pieces to put on top that are 1/2″ thick so I can use 1/2″ foam as my spoil board.December 27, 2016 at 1:17 pm #23560
Any size will work but you need a little extra width and length.December 28, 2016 at 2:14 am #23619
Ok I think I see – looking at the video the table provides the guide for the X axis movement.
Is this the primary difference from the Crawlbot, in that the Crawlbot uses the workpiece as the guide, whereas the Lowrider relies on its own table?
That power rack getting any use? ;DDecember 28, 2016 at 8:59 am #23638
Well technically it should not use the table as a guide it should just roll is a straight line. The table can be used if you start crooked or something else is wrong.
My poor rack…I was dedicated for 2 years only missed one day (other than the pneumonia week). I even skipped classes to workout. Pfffft not anymore this little business of mine takes up more time than full time work and full time school combined. I haven’t given up though, If I can get to the point of hiring an employee…December 28, 2016 at 1:40 pm #23653
These are top on our list for when we finally get a full sheet capable CNC at our makerspace:December 28, 2016 at 2:02 pm #23655
Any chance of a MPCNC retrofit version for those of us with full sheet sized MPCNC builds?December 28, 2016 at 2:14 pm #23657
I’m sure I could figure something out. Depending on the parts list.December 28, 2016 at 9:42 pm #23682December 29, 2016 at 8:39 am #23698
Aright, alright, alrighttt!!!! It looks like the Argentina debacle is behind us (for now). I will try and get a full 8’x4′ test cut in and release some parts???!!!!!
I think I will mark some of them with the website. Would it be best to emboss or deboss the letters? When working with an .stl file you can easily extrude extra things on it correct, but cutting features off does not work? So I should have the letters stick out so they can’t be cut off and if they get covered it would leave an obvious bump, right?
I am pretty happy I can release more details now.December 29, 2016 at 9:07 am #23702
I’d say either would be trivial for someone dedicated. Hate to say it, but DRM works about as well in physical objects as it does in software: it only causes a problem for people trying to legitimately modify it. I’d say the best defense would be to find a business model that can cope with it.
Out of curiousity, is this your day job? Or more of a hobby income? That should probably influence how you go about it.December 29, 2016 at 9:30 am #23704
Fulltime. Most of the income comes from the hardware not the plastic. I am assuming because most people find this site from thingiverse that most have a printer.December 29, 2016 at 9:41 am #23707
Ah. That does make getting it right a bit more critical. My experience in software has largely been that free or free-adjacent is a hard business model. The ones that make it tend to have some sort of predatory “freemium” setup.
Have you considered doing a kickstarter? It seems like one of the better options for funding a largely free project like this one..
Sorry if this is unwanted advice.. I really want you to succeed and I think you have real talent and a great design. Sadly that’s not enough to ensure financial success.
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