LowRider build thread- location: Kansas

New Home Forum LowRider Your Builds – LowRider LowRider build thread- location: Kansas

This topic contains 28 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Ryan 1 month ago.

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  • #102630

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Hello all!

    A CNC machine has been something I’ve been dreaming about for quite a few years now, and turns out so has one of my brothers. Then my brother and I started seriously looking into building/buying our own CNC’s mid 2018, and we both ended up going for the CNC’s designed by Ryan here on V1Engineering (obviously). Not only is the price much better than other machines out there, as you all should know, but I personally liked the customization and expansion abilities. While my brother opted for the MPCNC, I wanted something more like the LowRider V2 as I am more looking at doing full 4’x8′ sheet cutting or other larger format CNC-ing. And thus begins the journey.

    1″ (.065 wall) SS Tubes came in a week ago, so I could finally have my brother print the 25.4mm lowRider parts. So while I await for those to finish printing and for him to come visit next month, I’m in the process of designing the table and cutting out the flat parts. Was looking around at other builds to see if anything was similar to what I had already thought up in my head, and found JJWHarris’s build (https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/new-lowrider-2-build/). The table top is pretty similar to what I was thinking, so I’ve modeled mine in similar fashion.

    lowRider-table-2
    lowRider-table-3

    I used calculation sheet thing (https://jscalc.io/calc/Ea1pVUNBCQdV9cPF) and designed the table to have the “outside” to fit the minimum table size of 111in X 56in, with the “inside” able to fit a full 4’x8′ sheet. Using all 2X3’s. Still working on how I want to do the legs. but looks like doing 6 legs helps with stability/rigidity.
    Any design flaws or possible helpful must-haves?

    Also, is the spoil board the piece of MDF that will be screwed onto the “torson table” or is the spoil board going to sit on top of that piece of MDF?

    Thanks in advance!

    #102688

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Awesome!

    Both of you having different sizes might really come in handy for some cool trades.

    Table looks good, I like that setup. I think I will do something similar if I ever get to the plasma build.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #102706

    Barry
    Participant

    Spoil board sits on top of the table.  It’s the sacrificial part so you don’t ruin the table.  Generally unless someone really screws up, you never cut into your torsion box top.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #102717

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Spoil board sits on top of the table. It’s the sacrificial part so you don’t ruin the table. Generally unless someone really screws up, you never cut into your torsion box top.

    Awesome, thats really the info I was looking for. I wasnt sure if the first layer of mdf was part of the torson table or could be spoil board.

    Well sweet! I’ll keep plugging away at my table design and keep an eye out for any helpful mods before I pull the trigger as I play the waiting game for 3D parts.

    #103106

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    I’ve been informed that all the 3D parts have been printed (woot), and I’ll order the LowRider kit once it’s available as it seems to have just sold out. I waited to order, as I really dont have anything built. but might as well pull the trigger now that things are coming together.

    lowrider-table-end-view-final

    I’ve modified my table design a bit. Lowered the table surface, so that the torsion table top is flush with the table “rails” the lowrider will ride on. And then the spoil board will sit on top of the torson table top.

    Working on completing designs to make the entire table “flip up” so it takes up less space for storage. Currently have it setup to be hinged in the center(ish) so that it rotates. Hopefully, the space it takes up when flipped will be around 2′ wide (TBT) and the 111in (length of the table). will likely integrate some storage compartments below the table since it’s going to have some platforming.

    table-rollers

    Trying to figure out how to add stabilizing legs that fold up or something to stabilize the table when down, but also that tuck away when flipped…..might just go the card table route, but it’s just not as cool…..

    #103533

    Nick roth
    Participant

    What is your plan to use for the rails? I’ve seen suggestions for and against the unistruts. As someone that has worked with LVLs, I’m not sure they will definitely be better. They are pretty straight, but in comparison to regular lumber. They have their own little imperfections.

    #103565

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    I was originally looking at doing uni strut myself, however your correct, they have imperfections. pretty sure this is why Ryan’s original design is to have the gantry run on top of the MDF as you’ll then have a smooth surface and such. My plan now is to simply rip down a 2×4 side so that one side will be smooth / top from my cut. cheaper, and effective. At some point in the future I’m planning on replacing the 2×4 rails with 1/4″ (of some sort of wood board) and a 3/4″x4″ PVC board so that my gantry doesnt rub grooves into the original 2×4 “rails”.

    So then, update time:

    20190614_190311

    Received my LowRider electronics, bolts, nuts, ect. from Ryan’s LowRider kit. Also purchased the full size screen. Dang he ships fast, got it within 3 days of purchasing. Now really all I’m waiting on is the 3D printed parts and me to do the table build. speaking of…..

    20190615_202157

    Purchased a majority of the wood I’ll be needing, as well as misc parts for assembly. The plan is to make some sort of flip/rotating table for ease of storage (as I’ll be operating in my garage, and it’d be nice to be able to park cars when not in use). It’ll look something like this:

    06b4e58a68bce6f3a461f25fe1088d88-woodworking-bench-woodworking-shop

    I know I’ve got a long way to go, but really once I have all the parts I can really get cracking!

    Oh, Also have the flat parts all cut out. Had to cut out, sand, drill by hand. but if they dont work perfectly (they should) I can always CNC some once I get everything built and running.

    More content to come! it’s getting there and I’m excited to see saw dust fly!

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #103571

    Brent
    Participant

    Cool idea on the table.  I hope you can make it work out as space saving are always worth it.

    It all comes together pretty fast and easy which is another testament to how good the design is.  Best of luck.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #103575

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    If you can make it fold so that all the wheels are at the bottom and leave a little angle you might get away with leaving it all on there.

    Hmmm, might be a cool project to try out if I ever go back to a full sized table.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103582

    Jamie
    Participant

    Folding table is neat, but that picture looks unforgiving when folded, like it’s easy to tip over.  Perhaps the bottom plank with wheels could be a bit off center so the weight is closer to its center when stowed?  The table top could be off-center slightly too, so that it’s also centered above the wheels when deployed.

    It would mess up the feng shui though.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #103713

    Garrett
    Participant

    Now really all I’m waiting on is the 3D printed parts and me to do the table build.

    You better get that table built so you’ll be ready when I bring the 3D printed parts.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103719

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Now really all I’m waiting on is the 3D printed parts and me to do the table build.

    You better get that table built so you’ll be ready when I bring the 3D printed parts.

    Haha, I’m getting there!

    Actually started building last night. I dont have the MDF Sheet yet, but I did have a small piece so I can get the correct spacing.

    20190617_220231

    But the Frame is square and the correct size (which is always good). Just need to add the additional bracing as per my 3D drawings as well as get the base built. And add the MDF sheet, so should have the table complete by this weekend time permitting.

    #104210

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Update:

    Table is, more or less, complete! I’m sure I’ll have some fiddling to do once I get the LowRider attached, BUT for now I can sit back and take a breather until my 3D parts are hand delivered (Just waiting on you bro! haha). Honestly though, not in a rush.

    20190621_223514

    20190621_223157

    Perhaps the bottom plank with wheels could be a bit off center so the weight is closer to its center when stowed? The table top could be off-center slightly too, so that it’s also centered above the wheels when deployed.

    It would mess up the feng shui though.

    Ya thats basically what I had to do. centered the pin of the hinge to the center of the table so that it folds evenly. It did offset the lets, but honestly it’s hardly noticeable.

    20190621_223457

     

    And My garage is a mess, but I have a few other projects I’ve been recently tasked with, so had to stuff everything in to make it fit. However the table fits in it’s designated spot. sticks out a bit further than I expected, but it’s all good.

     

    20190621_230624

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #104488

    Carl Thompson
    Participant

    Hi Cameron,

    I am planning on building my table for my lowrider this weekend. I wanted something that I could stow away in a small footprint and I am really liking your design.  I have a couple of questions regarding your design.

    • How wide did you end up making the feet; did you go for 2′ or a bit longer?
    • Did you come up with any thoughts on the stabilizing feet?
    • Have you noticed any issues or anything you think would benefit from a modification?
    #104531

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Hi Cameron,

    I am planning on building my table for my lowrider this weekend. I wanted something that I could stow away in a small footprint and I am really liking your design. I have a couple of questions regarding your design.

    • How wide did you end up making the feet; did you go for 2′ or a bit longer?
    • Did you come up with any thoughts on the stabilizing feet?
    • Have you noticed any issues or anything you think would benefit from a modification?
    1. The span of the feet is just under 2ft. I took a 8ft 2×4 and cut it in half, then those 2 boards in half to get 4 almost 2ft long boards. the 2ft span works pretty well actually. doesnt feel like it wants to tip over.
    2. I havnt made anything to stabilize the table yet, thats a current working design.
    3. design wise I’m really liking it. I dont fully know if I have any required modifications until I can build the gantry (coming July 21st or so). but so far it fits where I designed it too, and rotates freely with very little effort. I also have yet to add the “Torson table top” MDF, so I’m expecting once I add that it will stiffen up the entire table.

    Recommendations: I HIGHLY recommend using the all metal casters as they dont roll as freely as regular casters. normally this would be annoying, but because I want to be able to flip the table, this is actually really helpful and works as a built in brake.

    Also make sure you square up, level, and brace the rolling support legs.

     

    Overall it functions as designed currently. I may have to lengthen the rolling support legs (4×4’s) by a few inches, but again I really wont know until I get that gantry up.

     

    Hopefully that helps.

    #106150

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Alrighty, update time!

     

    Table is more or less complete, minus any add-ons that will come once gantry is assembled in the coming weeks. I did have to add an additional support from the “foot” to the center 4×4 due to the weight of the table once the MDF was attached, but that was a simple fix.

    20190714_215321
    20190714_215155
    20190714_215308

    Table rotates, rolls, and has 4 retractable legs for additional support when tabled. I was having trouble coming up with a design for the legs that would allow them to fold under the table easily and still be stable. So after me spending a few weeks thinking and attempting some of my ideas, my wife sat with me one night for 5 mins and solved all my issues with velcro………

    20190712_194405
    20190712_194514

    So table works great, rolls well after some adjustments and fits in it’s designated location in the garage.

    Things I will likely be adding once the lowrider is up and running:

    1. Will look into a lowrider bracket to secure the gantry for flip-up storage
    2. Table will likely not be sitting at 90 degrees when folded up, this has an easy fix of adding stoppers on the “feet”. But it will be a build in place design once I get the gantry assembled and installed.
    3. will add built in table clamps to hold entire sheets to the table. but not worried about that until dust starts flying
    4. built-in storage
    5. built-in / attached vacuum

     

     

     

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #107467

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Final update before I start making some man glitter!

    Everything’s assembled, wired, tested and rolling! Table “flips” (still looking for a better term) with the gantry installed, so that’s a success.

    20190724_214800
    20190724_214830
    20190725_001756

    I plan on somehow getting power attached and rigged up beneath the table, but for now I’ll just manage with it on the floor.

    Been drawing some test crowns with mostly success. still trying to sync settings in eastlecam with the LowRider, but that’ll come as I get more familiar. But ready and excited for some cutting once I get things dialed in!

    20190725_203946

    Any suggestions on why the start/stop for the outline and major interiors isnt quite lining up? ends up the same way on all my prints no matter what I do with the pen mount…..

    #107473

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Final update before I start making some man glitter!

    Everything’s assembled, wired, tested and rolling! Table “flips” (still looking for a better term) with the gantry installed, so that’s a success.

    20190724_214800-1
    20190724_214830-1

    20190725_001756-1

    I plan on somehow getting power attached and rigged up beneath the table, but for now I’ll just manage with it on the floor.

    Been drawing some test crowns with mostly success. still trying to sync settings in eastlecam with the LowRider, but that’ll come as I get more familiar. But ready and excited for some cutting once I get things dialed in!

    20190725_203946-1

    Any suggestions on why the start/stop for the outline and major interiors isnt quite lining up? ends up the same way on all my prints no matter what I do with the pen mount…..

    #107521

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Any suggestions on why the start/stop for the outline and major interiors isnt quite lining up? ends up the same way on all my prints no matter what I do with the pen mount…..

    Use a ball point pen and no more than 0.5mm pressure.  99% of the time it is just waaaaay too much pressure deflecting things.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #107729

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Any suggestions on why the start/stop for the outline and major interiors isnt quite lining up? ends up the same way on all my prints no matter what I do with the pen mount…..

    Use a ballpoint pen and no more than 0.5mm pressure. 99% of the time it is just waaaaay too much pressure deflecting things.

    Will do! Thanks Ryan. And the ease of assembling the machine and quality is amazing btw!

    I had assumed that was the case, with either the sharpie was wiggling on the arcs or something like that. but good to hear that’s likely the case. I’ll jump on it this week and see if I can run it and maybe even make some dust!

    #108788

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    So I’ve been trying to make some sawdust. Turns out I had some slightly wonky cut MDF parts, but with some sanding it was easily remedied and helped straighten my Z tubing rides.

    But I have run into an issue and I’m not sure what the problem is. (see photos)

    20190806_204325
    20190806_204329

    So Cut #1 was perfect. depth was right, barely cut into the spoilboard as designed. I made the mistake of not making the holding tabs tall enough, but that’s easily fixed.

    Cut #2, cleared the material once done with cut#1 and cut out (same issue with tabs), BUT on last pass it went lower than cut#1.

    Cut #3, everything went wrong. didnt clear material but as it traveled to start point it cut through material, and then plunged even further because it obviously didnt clear the material. (bit got stuck, there were sparks, I hit the emergency stop).

     

    Any ideas on why I’m losing Z as I progress through the program? too fast or maybe assembly too tight?
    Eastlecam speeds are set as per the basic instructions. feedrate for 1/8″ flat cutter is at 3mm/s F(z) @ 12mm/sF(xy

    I manually checked the Z, Raised up 30mm, then dropped 30mm with it physically starting and stopping in the same point (no drop in Z that I could tell). so I just cant figure out what’s going on.

    Also did a V-carve with similar issues. I thought my table just wasnt level, as I was losing Z hight in some places, and deeper in others…

    #108795

    Bill
    Participant

    Look at your CAM first, if you have one of the Z speeds wrong you will get exactly that symptom. You can also see it if your set screws on the Z couplers aren’t completely tight, but that usually means a tilt not an even drop.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #108853

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Double check you Z rapids and that they are set to show on every line, as in the instructions. This has come up a bunch of times over the last few days. I might need to change that picture on the instructions or something.

    Also make sure your Z axis is not binding or rubbing the table too much. Lube the lead screw?

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #108863

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Ok so I double checked the couplets, all are tight. but I added blue thread lock to keep them from backing out.

     

    Here are all my settings and tool setups. I didnt think the tool setups would be the problem, but figured I’d just add em since I was getting settings. All seem to be setup as per the basic instructions, unless I’m missing something.

    setting-1
    Setting-3
    Setting-5

    Setting-4
    Setting-2

    I was reading in a few places where in the “commands” you can change it all to “G01”, but I believe that was before that “repeat” checkbox was available. Anywho, I did some testing via the screen knob control and when I messed with the Z height over and over, it was always going to the right height. so my guess is the speed isnt right, but I’m not sure which one needs to change/be fixed….

     

    Thanks for the help so far btw! Just cant wait till I can get this beast reliable and repeatable! So much to do!

    #108871

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    Not sure if this one got added properly, so here it is again:

    Setting-6-1

     

    Also, is there anyplace to get the proper settings for the mini-rambo board? (edited via the large screen & knob)

    Because it looks like one could alter the settings under “advanced settings” that could cause problems. I have not messed with them myself, but if something was askew I wouldnt know what the proper settings are supposed to be to fix it haha.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  Cameron L..
    Attachments:
    #108878

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That seems okay, so that leaves hardware issues. Check for free range of motion on you Z axis.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #108929

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    I’ll do some investigating tonight.
    When I was messing with it, I didnt notice anything loose or out of skew. The bolts are tightened so that all 3 bearings on each part make contact and roll with the tubing (is that too tight?).

    Z screw shaft and tubing visually are straight. Z screw shaft has lube on both side of the lead screw, doesnt make noise when moving or anything, and falls under its own weight when de-energized (mostly only on the side with the mini-rambo board, not as much on the other side. gotta manually twist the screw to get it all the way down if I emergency stop or whatnot).

    It does move pretty quick when running a cut, vrs manually controlling movement. but I assume that’s normal.

    I’ll take some video and post the links.
    Appreciate the attempting over the internet diagnostic 😀

    #110460

    Cameron L.
    Participant

    So after some setting changes, speeds and such I think I’m officially up and running!

    I still have a few kinks as my bed isnt as level as I’d like (about 1mm out of skew) but it is fixable, I just gotta take the time to do it.

    Proceeded to cut some foam:

    20190821_213258

    Only have one glaring blurp (see red circle) and it’s likely due to the unlevel bed. Bit just entered the foam at an angle, so the top cut at that point was to the left while the underside was spot on. should be fixed once I level the bed.

    20190821_205654

     

    So anywho, I’m excited to finally be getting the settings dialed in! now off to make some good stuff!

    (maybe after doing some bed leveling…..)

     

    #110476

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    VeeDub life!

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