January 6, 2019 at 4:17 am #82248
Hello, friends after a long break from the forum I decided to start build its no more excuse we have 25mm LRv2.
I give my MPCNC workhorse to my wife and the last thing that I cut on it was panels for LR. For now, sides are 20mm MDF and carriage is 12mm. When I get it running I will cut it from steel. The table will be welded from square tubing. I’m planning to use different type of wheels, maby parts that hold the wheels I need to modify but this we will see when I assemble machine in 3d. I will try to provide all the files and plans for changes and table build. try to keep it KISS. For simplicity and just to say that everybody can make it I will use stick welder for the welding process. As a electronic I will try to use GRBL with arduino mega or LinuxCNC with 5axis driver board that i bought for my mpcnc.
This is long-term project as I’m very busy these days. That will be interesting 2019 year 😀 stay tuned.!
Attachments:January 6, 2019 at 5:24 am #82268
Sounds like a good project! I am also going to be doing a LR2 Plasma table. Not sure if I am going to convert my current LR2 into a Transformer for this or just build a separate one. I’m most likely going to convert the one I have now into a multi-purpose machine just because of lack of space in my shop/garage.January 6, 2019 at 6:25 am #82272
Welcome to the LR Plasma club! Mine’s been going strong for a bit now, really happy with the progress. I’m actually in the middle of a v1->v2 upgrade myself. Printed the parts that touch motors in high-temp PLA because I had issues with warping on the regular PLA parts on the last build.
If you have any questions on it, I’d be happy to help. Here’s my build: https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/somd-lowrider-plasma-cnc/January 14, 2019 at 11:55 pm #83906
sorry to highjack your thread, but I just saw in Google Groups you posted about the M Prime One. Very clean! I might start one soon because I need a second printer (or third, actually), lightweight, small, and I like the idea to save one stepper motor. https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/108084856251985677965/posts/114901722831508359432
I plan to print with a 0.6mm nozzle (you wrote in the group you will go for a 0.8mm/Volcano?). Are you satisfied with it?
– the frame is 426 x 170mm in the original files. I don’t need the full build volume in X and Z, do you think I can make the frame smaller, say 350 x 150? I don’t see a reason why not.
– is the width of frame material crucial? Looks like you used 10mm Wood and painted it black. I have 6mm Alu, 10mm POM or wood as well. Will the prints still fit when I use another width size?
– The sideplates are designed by yourself I guess. Wanna share? 🙂January 15, 2019 at 12:00 am #83910
You can make all your changes without problem but make Sure that your printer that will produce parts is perfect dial in in x,Y,z and your z is square to build platform i will try to find this plates for you.January 21, 2019 at 3:17 pm #84872
i want to build this as well. is there no worries about heat damaging the 3d printer parts?January 21, 2019 at 3:22 pm #84873
I print my in PLA and print on her with PLA plastic no wories. But seperate and isolate heated bed:). Btw. Ryan have very nice design of 3d printer that you will achive much better print quality.April 27, 2019 at 7:31 am #98233April 28, 2019 at 11:10 am #98498April 28, 2019 at 11:11 am #98507April 28, 2019 at 1:31 pm #98539April 28, 2019 at 2:58 pm #98551
That’s a funny looking plasma torch 😉
I’ll be following along as I’m building a plasma table too. I’m eager to see your progress.April 28, 2019 at 3:34 pm #98556
It will be. I just have all parts for router so why don’t make both. I’m trying to decide what thc to use.April 30, 2019 at 11:35 am #98716May 1, 2019 at 12:37 pm #98932
I was playing little with my puzzles and I’m pretty sure that I can make it that whey main board will be 5axis TB6560 controlled by Arduino nano with GRBL and end-stops handled by another nano with 2x 2 rerail module for each of double axis that i need to square. step signal and direction signal is going true rerail and when right side hit endstop relay cut off steps when left side hit also endstop relay release and signal is going to grbl that axis is home. Maby it will work with one rerail if i just cut off step signal i need to check it.
Attachments:May 12, 2019 at 3:54 am #100189
Let me know how you go with this…very interested!
I’ve just started printing my parts so will embark on this journey soon 🙂July 4, 2019 at 12:37 pm #105178July 4, 2019 at 3:19 pm #105200
Looks like you’ve completely changed up your original plans 🙂July 4, 2019 at 6:39 pm #105211
I will still make plasma but first I need cnc that works. Just so I’m not finding problems where they aren’t.July 7, 2019 at 9:57 am #105413
So its cut but…
I have problem with my router i bought it from ebay its makita knock off. I get 3 collets for it 6,8,10mm and as far 6mm is legite and no play in bit in 8 and 10 milimeter its geting strong vibration. And i need to use 8 or 10 for my cr11 adapter. Sombay is using maby spindle with lowrider? how is with monting it.
Attachments:July 14, 2019 at 7:39 am #106083
Make some more test its look like i need to change bearings on the router. i place long shaft inside 6mm collet and see deflection when moved then i also see that temperature is rasing on end of the shaft where you insert collets when using nr 1 speed and just holding it in hand for 2 minutes i can bearly touch it with my hand. I order new bearing we will see if its help to my problem. Top bearing is 627RS and bottom bearing closest to collet is 6003RS router Katsu for those that may have a similary problem.
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