Joker inspired MP3DP

This topic contains 216 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 2 years ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 181 through 210 (of 217 total)
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  • #39405

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Does it really need to be stiffened?
    Looking at the results Mmmfishtacos is getting, I think it is pretty much spot on…

    Both of my MP3DP are 1/2 thick.

    #39430

    Ralph
    Participant

    Yeah, I might go back to designing my fan for the Aero, Or just make a box to put it in. That’s the other issue, as you cant actually mount it to the frame, because the vibrations cause issues too.

    Really is a killer idea, too bad it isn’t quite there yet.

    I printed the 360 degree shroud (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2240359) and it fits way better than the 180. More than enough clearance from the heater block. Printed 6 prints now without the silicon sock ( just haven’t put it on yet) and no signs of the Petg melting or deforming. BL touch is next.

    #39480

    Bill
    Participant

    I like #2, since it doesn’t require sourcing thicker material for the front and back. #1 seems like the quick fix for people with issues, but #2 seems more like the fix before issues arrive.

    #39481

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant
    Yeah, I might go back to designing my fan for the Aero, Or just make a box to put it in. That’s the other issue, as you cant actually mount it to the frame, because the vibrations cause issues too.

    Really is a killer idea, too bad it isn’t quite there yet.

    <span class=”et_quote_sign”></span>

    I printed the 360 degree shroud (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2240359) and it fits way better than the 180. More than enough clearance from the heater block. Printed 6 prints now without the silicon sock ( just haven’t put it on yet) and no signs of the Petg melting or deforming. BL touch is next.

    Yeah, that’s the one I printed and was having issues with. Now that I got my printer working like it should I might try again. But I want to keep both fans. The berd air kit does really well for small points so it could come in handy. Not really sure how I would set that up though. I don’t think I could just piggy back two fans together.

    #39486

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I don’t think I could just piggy back two fans together.

    Are you talking about power? Because you can just wire them in parallel. The PWM/power control modulates between 12V and 0V to manage the speed, so as long as you aren’t drawing more power than D9 can handle, you can connect them both up.

    #39667

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Well trying to set up the Bltouch, I’m getting no where with it. I think I have the firmware set right. I’m getting bltouch options on the touch screen but clicking any of them does nothing. The bltouch will move up and down a few times when the printer is first powered on and that’s it.

    How do I get the arduino IDE to not save over my files? I just want to revert and now I can’t. With out manually going back through it.

    #39672

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    How do I get the arduino IDE to not save over my files? I just want to revert and now I can’t. With out manually going back through it.

    You can copy the whole folder and make edits there.

    More advanced is using git to control the revisions, but it’s a pretty steep learning curve if you just want undo.

    #39673

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Also, look for some specific gcodes to test your work. You should be able to manually do all the steps with gcodes, I think.

    #39674

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    antclabs directions are madding.

    https://www.antclabs.com/wiring2

    It want’s me to change a servo pin but tells me to go to the rambo.h and not the minirambo.h?

    #39675

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Also, look for some specific gcodes to test your work. You should be able to manually do all the steps with gcodes, I think.

    Yeah, tried all the manual gcode too. and nothing works. Seems I have it wired right. Not sure about my firmare. I’m sure I screwed it all up.

    #39723

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    That is crazy, does it have a little servo in it so the pin drops down before homing and up before printing?

    If you change the stuff in the gcode you should just be able to use it with a g29 as your starting gcode. I would make the manual edits and not use there config file.

    #39726

    Barry
    Participant

    Looks like an electromagnet.

    #39728

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I thought it was just a fancy case over and end stop until I saw all the extra wires. Nice idea, looks legit, uses a hall effect sensor, should be pretty accurate.

    #39750

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    I thought it was just a fancy case over and end stop until I saw all the extra wires. Nice idea, looks legit, uses a hall effect sensor, should be pretty accurate.

    Should be. I didn’t even know I had reply’s here. Been busy try to get it to work. When you made my firmware what version of marlin did you use? I might need to go to the latest bug fix. And I’m not sure how to do that. I’ve downloaded it and When I open the INO file it only opens one window. And not everything else that comes with it.

    But I did get it working. Antclabs info Is all over the place and they need to get it organized. I ended up figuring out the servo pin my self. They tell you to use 30, when it actually 23. I don’t think they even check half the information they put out.

    But now the problem is on the second touch it doesn’t move the z up, so it just redeploys the probe and it enters an error state. Because the pro tip needs to come out a set distance.

    #39753

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I saw that in a video, the second touch doesn’t look like it moves up all the way. Does this help if you make this larger,

    #define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES  5

    ?

    I used the firmware released on 5/11/17

    #39757

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    I tried that, and I have it set to 30 right now.

    #39764

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Got it! Don’t mess with this.. lol

    //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG

    #39798

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    can anyone tell me why it’s not doing the G29 command when I run a print?

    It will do the command if i send it.

    #39801

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    I guess it would have helped to add the G29 code to my scripts…

    Don’t blame me. Iv’e been at this all day. 🙁

    #39810

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    can anyone tell me why it’s not doing the G29 command when I run a print?

    It will do the command if i send it.

    Yes

    #39856

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Well I’ve printed like 16 cubes. a new fan mount. and a bunch of start and stops. And out side of the first few cubes I haven’t had to mess with the z height at all. It seems to be printing a nice first layer every time now. I’m going to call the BLtouch a good buy. Once you work past the crappy documentation to get the thing running. It would probably have been easier to get it working on ramps, considering that the most common Board.

    #39869

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Awesome! You should post your edits or the zip of the firmware here for others and future you.

    With the bltouch, I suppose you can use glass or anything really.

    IIRC, if you run G29 from the computer, it returns the z heights it used. I found that interesting to see how unlevel the bed was.

    Are you doing a mesh?

    #39873

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    I might do that, but the firmware is dependant on where you mount the probe. I thought about doing a little how to for the mini rambo. And im still tunning it. I need it to probe a little faster and not move so hight when it does probe. Right now its miving twice the distance in z that it needs.

    And yes, its using a mesh, but the printinz plate is so flat i dont think i need to use a mesh. Just a plane.

    #40047

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Yes

    How does your leveling work? Does it actually move the z up and down as it prints? Mine just seems to find a halfway point and print there. the z doenst actually move. and Now that’s causing me problems.

    #40057

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    It does move the Z pretty much all the time. There are a lot of settings, and I thought they were pretty well described.

    One setting was to have the adustment slowly decrease as the layers went up. So if you aren’t seeing any Z movement after 20mm of height, that might be it. The first layer should be doing some, assuming it wasn’t flat/level to begin with. If your bed is good anyway, then it might not move (much).

    Like I said, I remember doing G28, then G29 through pronterface, and the serial terminal. I have it doing a 3x3mesh, so 9 points, and when it finished, it would print out a little chart on the serial console that showed the different Z adjustments at each location, and they were off by 0.3mm or so, IIRC. So when it was printing the first layer, it would only move the z by as much as 0.3mm. I can only tell by watching the coupler, and it rotates maybe 30 degrees between left and right or front and back for a normal print. The best resource I found was the Thomas Sanladerer video on the subject, but I did also read all the settings comments in the Configuration.h.

    #40120

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Yeah, It’s working. I printed a 100x100x0.2 square and it move up and down while it was printing. But the left side was coming out a little too height. While the right side was good. So I found something on TV that aligns the x and y axis and it seems to be working better now.

    #40126

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    I have about two inches square in the rear left corner that doesn’t level right. I am guessing the inductive sensor triggers just a bit earlier over there, due to the heater wires or something. I’ve been meaning to try a more dense mesh. An extra 1 minute during the start of a print is NBD if it makes a 7hour print better.

    #40157

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant
    Yeah, I might go back to designing my fan for the Aero, Or just make a box to put it in. That’s the other issue, as you cant actually mount it to the frame, because the vibrations cause issues too. Really is a killer idea, too bad it isn’t quite there yet.

    I printed the 360 degree shroud (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2240359) and it fits way better than the 180. More than enough clearance from the heater block. Printed 6 prints now without the silicon sock ( just haven’t put it on yet) and no signs of the Petg melting or deforming. BL touch is next.

    You’re might be holding up better because you Petg, But my PlA one melted. So I made my own. Testing it out now.

    #40303

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Well this is what I came up with.

    I remixed the part from the other guys fan. It’s printed in two parts and CA glued together. Which save a lot of support that’s needed for his

    #40937

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Look at what I got in the mail yesterday.

    My-MK2S

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