July 16, 2017 at 2:55 pm #38522
Yeah, I can see that. That’s part of the reason for the Auto level sensor though.
I still haven’t tried to set mini up though. I’m kind of scared off it. But I was reading and it seems that the Bl touch has it’s own setting in marlin now. So it might not be that hard.July 17, 2017 at 1:51 pm #38620
I was going to try your ie-test print on my MP3DP. When I load the gcode in Repetier Host it’s not centered on the bed, rather it’s in the home position and some is off the bed. Any way to center it?July 17, 2017 at 4:38 pm #38629
It was for the mpcnc so it is centered right where the head is with no homing.
I can put up a mp3dp file if you would like when I get back in an hour or so.July 17, 2017 at 5:08 pm #38632
Sure that would be greatly appreciated. I’m assuming that the test print has no head bed either.July 17, 2017 at 7:59 pm #38646July 20, 2017 at 4:38 pm #39008
My first complex build on the new printer.
1 user thanked author for this post.July 20, 2017 at 5:21 pm #39012
Ummmm, I would say home run for a first project!July 20, 2017 at 5:48 pm #39013
Is that what they look like from the front?July 20, 2017 at 6:04 pm #39015
Not bad, I’m still working on a profile for it. But it’s slowly getting better. I did have to turn off the berd air kit. Apparently it isn’t a good idea to attach it to the frame, it basically turned the nozzle into a tattoo gun. Which looked kind of bad. Like z banding. It went away after I shut it off.
I don’t know. I can’t recall seeing one from the front in a 3d game.July 22, 2017 at 5:13 pm #39115
I might need to cut a new frame. I’m getting z banding and that’s the only place I can see causing. It’s just not stiff enough.
Anyone else have any other ideas?July 22, 2017 at 6:04 pm #39117
Reseat your couplers you might have a misalignment.July 22, 2017 at 8:16 pm #39121
Reseat your couplers you might have a misalignment.
Do you just release the set screws and tighten up again?July 22, 2017 at 8:20 pm #39122
Give them a quarter turn or something as well. Then drive it all the way up and home the z axis and watch very carefully for slight wobble in the thread rods.
1 user thanked author for this post.July 25, 2017 at 4:20 pm #39352
I think I about got got it dialed in.
Okay, off the check out S3D 4.0!July 25, 2017 at 4:23 pm #39354July 25, 2017 at 4:32 pm #39359
Wow. You should sell benchys to people who are trying to make their printers look better.July 25, 2017 at 4:37 pm #39361
Since you are both online right now I need an opinion. I have CAD open.
Before I go remaking a whole new printer I have two options for this printer.
1)I can redesign the corners so the wood sits on the other face allowing for thicker wood.
Or 2)I can just make a printed part that uses the same screws as the bearing mount and motor mount to increase the stiffness of that one part.
DXF’s stay the same in both cases.
Option 1 or 2?July 25, 2017 at 4:46 pm #39363
I like option 1. But how will that look?
If you go with option 2 it would still be best to stretch the corners so you can extend the face plate forward.July 25, 2017 at 4:58 pm #39364
Also, if you go with the berd Air kit you have to print really slow. Like 20 mm/s any faster is too fast for the kit to cool it down. You’d need a secondary fan to go any faster and at that point you might as well just use a normal fan.July 25, 2017 at 4:58 pm #39365
I could do both I guess. #1 is a quick fix and it works better, so people do not lose Y axis length. #3 is a corner brace but that involves modifying the DXF’s, but I would rather make a whole new printer if I am doing that. Dammit, maybe it is time to do a version 2. I think I want to finish the corexy version first…..after the sand table. Shoot I am stuck in the loop and not getting anything done. Sand table beta first, I will think about the printer situation once I get the sand table parts printing.
Sorry to hijack your thread.July 25, 2017 at 4:59 pm #39366
The berd air was too loud for me, both the pump and the nozzle but I figured most people are not sitting right next to their printers all day. Bummer though, killer idea.July 25, 2017 at 5:04 pm #39368
Yeah, I might go back to designing my fan for the Aero, Or just make a box to put it in. That’s the other issue, as you cant actually mount it to the frame, because the vibrations cause issues too.
Really is a killer idea, too bad it isn’t quite there yet.July 25, 2017 at 6:17 pm #39394
Sorry I have to share one more. Rocket!
I’m really happy with this now. And this black is really hard to take photos of. I used it to tune because it easy to see flaws.July 25, 2017 at 6:19 pm #39396
Dude, even the point came out damn near perfect.July 25, 2017 at 7:04 pm #39399
Sorry. Wasn’t really online. I don’t understand option 2 at all. So I guess option 1.July 25, 2017 at 7:07 pm #39400
A 3dp printed stiffener.July 25, 2017 at 7:08 pm #39401
#2 would just be a printed part to beef up the rigidity of the front and back pieces, essentially making the part thicker. Just screw on rigidity.July 25, 2017 at 7:20 pm #39402
Dui, ni shuo de duiParticipant
Does it really need to be stiffened?
Looking at the results Mmmfishtacos is getting, I think it is pretty much spot on…July 25, 2017 at 7:29 pm #39403
Oh, I see.
When I was putting it together, I was thinking of making another MDF part that would be perpendicular to the front. If you had a good way to make it agnostic to the thickness of the material… I guess making it a printed part would solve that.
If someone doesn’t care what it looks like, they can put it on the outside. If someone wants more pretty than quality, they can always suffer with a little less Y… I don’t think it helps anything unless it looks good, and keeps your Y size. I think it should also allow thicker materials, because a lot of people want other materials and it would be good to allow thicker stuff. I would love to have the time to make it out of walnut stock or something…
Python zen is something like:
Now is better than never
But never is often better than right now.July 25, 2017 at 7:30 pm #39404
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