Joker inspired MP3DP

This topic contains 216 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 1 year, 10 months ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 151 through 180 (of 217 total)
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  • #38522

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Yeah, I can see that. That’s part of the reason for the Auto level sensor though.

    I still haven’t tried to set mini up though. I’m kind of scared off it. But I was reading and it seems that the Bl touch has it’s own setting in marlin now. So it might not be that hard.

    #38620

    Ralph
    Participant

    Hi Ryan

    I was going to try your ie-test print on my MP3DP. When I load the gcode in Repetier Host it’s not centered on the bed, rather it’s in the home position and some is off the bed. Any way to center it?

    #38629

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It was for the mpcnc so it is centered right where the head is with no homing.

    I can put up a mp3dp file if you would like when I get back in an hour or so.

    #38632

    Ralph
    Participant

    Sure that would be greatly appreciated. I’m assuming that the test print has no head bed either.

    #38646

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The dewalt mount.

    Attachments:
    1. 660.gcode
    #39008

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    My first complex build on the new printer.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #39012

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Ummmm, I would say home run for a first project!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #39013

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Is that what they look like from the front?

    #39015

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Not bad, I’m still working on a profile for it. But it’s slowly getting better. I did have to turn off the berd air kit. Apparently it isn’t a good idea to attach it to the frame, it basically turned the nozzle into a tattoo gun. Which looked kind of bad. Like z banding. It went away after I shut it off.

    Jeffeb3

    I don’t know. I can’t recall seeing one from the front in a 3d game.

    #39115

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    I might need to cut a new frame. I’m getting z banding and that’s the only place I can see causing. It’s just not stiff enough.

    Anyone else have any other ideas?

    #39117

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Reseat your couplers you might have a misalignment.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #39121

    Dan
    Participant

    Reseat your couplers you might have a misalignment.

    Do you just release the set screws and tighten up again?

    #39122

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Give them a quarter turn or something as well. Then drive it all the way up and home the z axis and watch very carefully for slight wobble in the thread rods.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    Dan
    #39352

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    I think I about got got it dialed in.

    Okay, off the check out S3D 4.0!

    #39354

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Yeah, I’d say so, that looks great.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #39359

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Wow. You should sell benchys to people who are trying to make their printers look better.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #39361

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Since you are both online right now I need an opinion. I have CAD open.

    Before I go remaking a whole new printer I have two options for this printer.

    1)I can redesign the corners so the wood sits on the other face allowing for thicker wood.

    Or 2)I can just make a printed part that uses the same screws as the bearing mount and motor mount to increase the stiffness of that one part.

    DXF’s stay the same in both cases.

    Option 1 or 2?

    #39363

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    I like option 1. But how will that look?

    If you go with option 2 it would still be best to stretch the corners so you can extend the face plate forward.

    #39364

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Also, if you go with the berd Air kit you have to print really slow. Like 20 mm/s any faster is too fast for the kit to cool it down. You’d need a secondary fan to go any faster and at that point you might as well just use a normal fan.

    #39365

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    I could do both I guess. #1 is a quick fix and it works better, so people do not lose Y axis length. #3 is a corner brace but that involves modifying the DXF’s, but I would rather make a whole new printer if I am doing that. Dammit, maybe it is time to do a version 2. I think I want to finish the corexy version first…..after the sand table. Shoot I am stuck in the loop and not getting anything done. Sand table beta first, I will think about the printer situation once I get the sand table parts printing.

    Sorry to hijack your thread.

    #39366

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    The berd air was too loud for me, both the pump and the nozzle but I figured most people are not sitting right next to their printers all day. Bummer though, killer idea.

    #39368

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Yeah, I might go back to designing my fan for the Aero, Or just make a box to put it in. That’s the other issue, as you cant actually mount it to the frame, because the vibrations cause issues too.

    Really is a killer idea, too bad it isn’t quite there yet.

    #39394

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Sorry I have to share one more. Rocket!

    I’m really happy with this now. And this black is really hard to take photos of. I used it to tune because it easy to see flaws.

    #39396

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Dude, even the point came out damn near perfect.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #39399

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Sorry. Wasn’t really online. I don’t understand option 2 at all. So I guess option 1.

    #39400

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    A 3dp printed stiffener.

    #39401

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    #2 would just be a printed part to beef up the rigidity of the front and back pieces, essentially making the part thicker. Just screw on rigidity.

    #39402

    Dui, ni shuo de dui
    Participant

    Does it really need to be stiffened?
    Looking at the results Mmmfishtacos is getting, I think it is pretty much spot on…

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #39403

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Oh, I see.

    When I was putting it together, I was thinking of making another MDF part that would be perpendicular to the front. If you had a good way to make it agnostic to the thickness of the material… I guess making it a printed part would solve that.

    If someone doesn’t care what it looks like, they can put it on the outside. If someone wants more pretty than quality, they can always suffer with a little less Y… I don’t think it helps anything unless it looks good, and keeps your Y size. I think it should also allow thicker materials, because a lot of people want other materials and it would be good to allow thicker stuff. I would love to have the time to make it out of walnut stock or something…

    Python zen is something like:
    Now is better than never
    But never is often better than right now.

    #39404

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Does it really need to be stiffened?
    Looking at the results Mmmfishtacos is getting, I think it is pretty much spot on…

    Mine was definitely flexing. I don’t think I was printing too fast. I ended up replacing them with 1/2″ parts.

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