Joker inspired MP3DP

This topic contains 216 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Jeffeb3 2 years, 1 month ago.

Viewing 30 posts - 121 through 150 (of 217 total)
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  • #37782

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    The prusa autolevel stuff is totally different too, so I wouldn’t try to mess with his firmware unless you were trying to mimick that machine.

    So what was causing these underextrusion?

    #37786

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    The prusa autolevel stuff is totally different too, so I wouldn’t try to mess with his firmware unless you were trying to mimick that machine.

    So what was causing these underextrusion?

    Maybe a bad motor. Ill know tomorrow when the nrw one comes.

    #37825

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Got the new motor in, same issues.

    #37826

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Okay, so 0.9degree or 1.8 degree, amp rating? What are your z steps, and what is your driver settings?

    #37831

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    This is Short Height Bipolar Nema 17 stepper motor with 1.8 deg. step angle (200 steps/revolution).
    Each phase draws current 1A, allowing for a holding torque of 13Ncm(18.4oz.in).

    Electrical Specification:

    * Manufacturer Part Number: 17HS08-1004S
    * Motor Type: Bipolar Stepper
    * Step Angle: 1.8 deg.
    * Holding Torque: 13Ncm(18.4oz.in)
    * Rated Current/phase: 1.0A
    * Phase Resistance: 3.5ohms
    * Inductance: 4.5mH+/-20%(1KHz)

    Z is 400.
    Driver setting are what ever you have im that formware you posted. I only changed steps and tge auto fan.

    #37835

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Did you change the extruder therm to #5?
    The steps should be 418.5.

    Can you post a picture of what’s happening? Maybe your nozzle is clogged or something. The extruder is almost identical to the other ones I sell, No drastic changes anywhere.

    #37841

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Yes, i changes it to 5.

    And i have E set to 418.5

    #37844

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    stepper-wiring

    I think I have it right, but Just to make sure. It’s wired in this order. Black, Green, Red, Blue.

    This one does the same thing. When I first turn it on it gives me the 100mm Extrusion I ask for. I run a print, it starts under extruding on layer two, I let it run till layer 5 and stop it. Then I asked for 100mm again. It gives me less than 50.

    Attachments:
    #37848

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Have you run my test print yet to eliminate gcode issues?

    A single stepper wired wrong will not work and will make a nasty sound.

    #37849

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    No, I will if this next thing doesn’t work. But I just don’t see how it could be gcode related when I stop the print and it fails the 100m test. And not by just a little bit, a lot. I think it only gave me 25 mm last time. If I run the same file on my other printer it works.

    #37850

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    It’s a simple test to eliminate a possibility.

    #37853

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Well Let me do that first. Where is the gcode file located?

    #37854

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    If that doesn’t work I’m putting my old stepper motor on from the other extruder and seeing if that works. I think I can get it to fit using a full bodied stepper on the old mount.

    #37855

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    very bottom of this page.

    3D Printing / Import Extruder

    #37857

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Massive over extrusion.

    But it showed me that the file was the issue. Which is still puzzling because I never save the Gcode when I slice with S3D. I just print directly from there over USB. So I heading over the Slic3r Prusa Edition and picked a different model this time. The razor blade plane. It’s coming out along. I may need to fine tune the bed level some more. I’m going to let it run and see how it comes out. Looks like I might be getting a bit of over extrusion now. Funny thing is that’s the 20mm cube I’ve printed a million times before. Sliced in both programs is giving me the same issues. I’ll have to make my own cube and toss that one.

    I probably owe you a beer or 5.

    #37858

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Wait, over extrusion? My file should print fine. That means you have a firmware issue. fix the firmware and when my file prints correctly then figure out what is going on with your slicer.

    You have a know file that is correct, .4mm nozzle PLA. Changing files and slicers continuously is going to get you nowhere.

    I would double check to make sure your extruder steps are correct, 418 should be the right steps for a minirambo and titan aero with 1.8 degree stepper.

    I think this should be a complete firmware for you. If the flash is successful the lcd should reads, “tacos”

    Attachments:
    1. tacos.zip
    #37861

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Well I loaded it. And everything was back wards. Flipped all the steppers and now it wont home. Just moves about 10mm and stops. Will you look it over again?

    #37862

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    another

    Attachments:
    1. tacos2.zip
    #37940

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Okay, got the new firmware loaded and everything is working correctly again.

    I printed your test part from S3D. Came out okay. Just a couple of weird banding issues about a inch apart from each other. Not a big deal. So I then wanted to try bridging with the berd air kit. Sliced it up using Prusa’s .2mm setting and back to under extrusion. So I sliced it up in Slic3r, same issues. This time I take the same G code and run it over Repetier host. And it’s working like it should. After this is done I’m going to slice it up in S3D and run it from Repetier host again to see if Maybe S3D host is the issue.

    #37944

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Some how it’s S3D. Nothing sliced in S3D will work. Super odd.

    #38039

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    I seem to have S3D working now. Which I’m glad that it does, because it’s an expensive program. I’m not really sure how it change. As I was using profiles for the Prusa MK2 I found on Prusa’s froms. It worked well for the MK8 extruder. So I reverted back to the stock profile from S3D. While it’s lacking, it’s working. The main Difference that jumps out to me is Retaliative extrusion distance is not checked, where it is on the others. Does anyone know what that actually does?

    #38044

    Jeffeb3
    Participant

    Does anyone know what that actually does?

    I’ll go check the source… wait. Nope, it’s proprietary /trolling

    #38057

    Ralph
    Participant

    You probably already googled this, but just in case you haven’t ….

    https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2366

    #38077

    Ryan
    Keymaster

    Thanks Ralph, They explained that very well. I always go them mixed up now maybe I will remember. I still really want to get my hands dirty on volumetric extrusion I think it might really help on small detailed islands and such.

    #38080

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    Maybe thats not it. I’m slowly buildung a new profile for it. Ill check that box tonight to see if it changes.

    Printed the pony modle last night. And it looks fantastic. Untill the line tangled and draged the spool onto the bed. The very top of its head is off set like hannibal was about to have lunch.

    My wife is having a hard time getting it back from my daughter.

    #38456

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    So I got some Airdry clay. So I can try out my bed level Idea. If this works out I’ll move up to apoxie sculpt. It’s just something I had to order and didn’t want to wait for. Apoxie sculpt has a 3 hour dry time. Air Dry clay is like 72 hours or something. Plus Hobby lobby had all their clay on sale so I got it for like 4 bucks.

    #38460

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    It worked. First try result

    The Z needs to come up just a hair, but this is pretty good. Combine this with auto bed leveling and you’ll probably never have to mess with the bed again. At least I hope.

    #38466

    Barry
    Participant

    It worked. First try result

    The Z needs to come up just a hair, but this is pretty good. Combine this with auto bed leveling and you’ll probably never have to mess with the bed again. At least I hope.

    Till the temperature changes, or you move your printer.

    #38468

    Mmmfishtacos
    Participant

    I agree, with the airdry clay. But that Apoxie sculpt it will dry in 3 hours and turn into a rock. and has pretty much zero shrink and isn’t affected to much by temp change. The Clay was just a let’s see if this works before I ordered the Apoxie sculpt.

    This is Apoxie sculpt. I’ve used it a lot in the past on custom cars and amusement park props.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013UDWXI/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B0013UDWXI&pd_rd_r=NSNF772EA4H7G2PKFPD1&pd_rd_w=lTp1g&pd_rd_wg=CFFV3&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=ASAJN7WB2CJS2Z0XBWR3&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&pf_rd_i=desktop

    #38510

    Barry
    Participant

    I was talking about the printer itself. Any time I move my printer I have to relevel it. Might not be off by much, but it’s not quite there.

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