August 17, 2017 at 12:20 pm #41624
“Extruded Expanded Polystyrene Foam Board (XEPS) foam board.
A denser, more rigid, solid closed-cell foam. XEPS can be cut, routed, shaped and sanded without the need for a coating. Typical insulation densities are 1.5 lbs./cubic foot. While soft and vulnerable to denting and damage, machined surfaces have a good surface quality.”
Very interesting…August 17, 2017 at 1:26 pm #41628
I think that is what that purple stuff is. I looked but my new piece is already missing the sticker.August 17, 2017 at 6:24 pm #41680
Pretty sure that’s just blue/pink/green foam insulation. Yea, just did a little research, it’s the same thing. There’s XPS or EXPS, and MEPS. The PS is polystyrene, Molded Extruded, or eXpanded Extruded. The Molded Extruded stuff is the white crap that leaves the little beads all over the place. Expanded extruded is the colored smoother insulation we’re using on the lowrider waste board.August 17, 2017 at 6:32 pm #41682
I think it’s pink!
I didn’t exactly get a veto on the concrete from my wife, but it was a, “do that at your own risk”. I think I’ll stick with wood for this project at least.August 17, 2017 at 6:38 pm #41687
I think it’s pink! I didn’t exactly get a veto on the concrete from my wife, but it was a, “do that at your own risk”. I think I’ll stick with wood for this project at least.
Colored concrete looks pretty cool.August 17, 2017 at 8:41 pm #41702
My magnet came today. I found a box of bs in the back of the pantry.
At this point, I added a magnet to the top as a little passenger.
I think this will help me a lot on my sandify work. I noticed that I really like watching the first 8 minutes, but the next 24 are pretty boring. I think multiple smaller shapes might be more interesting, even if they don’t look as neat in the end. Sort of a difference between watching and creating.
Attachments:August 18, 2017 at 6:13 pm #41824
I ordered my magnets today. A 1/2″ and a 3/4″.August 19, 2017 at 8:25 am #41885
@Barry, that belongs in your buid’s progress.
I have the 1/2″ in there and it’s a perfect size. I have the machine bolted to the bottom of the basin though. If I do the lid approach, then I’ll need to have something on top of the machine to bolt it to, and the longer magnet will help reach to the bottom of the basin in that case.
I’m pretty sure I have something like these:
They come in handy around the shop. If the 3/4″ isn’t quite long enough, you could probably stack one of them on the bottom of it to push it a bit closer.
I also sanded the bottom of my basin, so that if it drags anywhere, there will be less resistance. I should probably add some wax too, but this is just my prototype table.August 19, 2017 at 8:36 am #41886
I think I could still use the calculator.
The width of the gantry seems to be very critical. If it’s too small, then it clacks back and forth, instead of just moving the cart. If it’s too big, then it binds up. Maybe it’s a problem with my spacers. The ones I printed are about 9.5mm tall, 8mm ID and 12mm OD.
I’m assuming the correct distance would make all 8 bearings touch the rails? If I do that, then the rollers aren’t dragging on the rails.August 19, 2017 at 9:49 am #41891
I took the soda off (and I learned I do not want a career with cocaine). I flipped it over and measured that the rails were about 600mm at one end and about 595mm at the other. I finally figured out that the bases of the feet are in the right place, but the motor mounts aren’t flat to the surface.
So I added some blocks to force it square. I think it’s just because the plastic and the hardboard are both a little soft, so since there’s more material on one side than the other, it rotates.
That’s making it bind up less. It’s pretty hard to make adjustments to this. I have to say, I would much prefer it if it attached below, but kept the top surface for reference. If I could just pull the basin off, I could get all this stuff adjusted really finely, and it would be easier to measure the work area and build the basin after the machine was dialed in.
Attachments:August 19, 2017 at 10:00 am #41897
I’m also noticing that it has a crunchy noise in addition to the motor hum. The crunchy noise is loudest when the middle is moving along the gantry (X on my machine). It’s also louder when the center is in the middle of the gantry. I wonder if the center is bouncing a little bit, on the gantry, and that’s translating out to the bearings, which are amplifying the noise on the rails.August 19, 2017 at 11:10 am #41903
I didn’t think leveling it would be that hard, but it kind of is. I like the idea of making a little zen garden rake. Might print something or else just make it from wood.
I tried using vibration to level it out. In my head, it was going to just turn to liquid and fill up the bottom. I don’t know why I thought that. It ended up not doing anything, except making funny cracks in the BS. I used my “unskil” saw with the blade removed.
I hooked up my octopi to it. It has been working fine. The gcode is pretty coarse, so something like the pause button doesn’t stop right away because something has a dozen lines of gcode queued up. 12 lines of gcode could be three huge loops when drawing squares. The temp graph is still present, annoyingly. But it works fine otherwise.August 19, 2017 at 3:16 pm #41916August 19, 2017 at 3:19 pm #41920
And the Zen part of the ZenXY…Rake and all. I have a little different printed style sketched out.August 19, 2017 at 3:24 pm #41921
I must not be doing it right. The raking isnt exactly relaxing. Maybe I should throw in a bonsai tree.August 19, 2017 at 3:29 pm #41922
Need some rocks too.November 19, 2018 at 8:31 pm #76238
I’ve been reworking my ZXY in the last week or so. I’ve done three major changes:
1) I remixed the feet to mount on the bottom instead of the top. This is helping me test things, and I will build a box with a lid for the enclosure, so this way, the ZXY won’t attach to the lid. The results of this are TBD.
2) I shrink wrapped the outside pipes with 1″ heat shrink. I like it, but the bearings are sitting flush anymore (the diameter changed) and there’s no way I could wrap the middle, without some more remixing. The pipe is too thick to fit in the bearings.
3) I tried some new controllers. First, I have tried it with the trinamic TMC2130, and IMHO, it’s basically silent. This is the configuration in the video below. Second, I have a Grbl_ESP32 board, and I have been playing with that too. I really like it, and the web interface is pretty good. I honestly wish it was Marlin, but grbl will work, there are just a few goofy quirks. I think I will either try to get Marlin to work on it, or get the TMC drivers to work on it. I haven’t decided if I’ll go the “silent stick” soldering/standalone route, or (the better long term solution) get them to talk SPI to the ESP32.
I need to do more building (obviously), but I still really like working on this machine. The ESP32 has me excited, and I have almost convinced myself I should make a dedicated controller board just for this machine.November 19, 2018 at 8:31 pm #76239November 20, 2018 at 3:03 pm #76357
I went with a couple of these between the RAMPS and stepper and it made a huge difference to sound. Of course mine is going into a bar, and sound level isn’t going to be that much of a detractor… I’ve also played with speeds, the faster you go the louder it is.November 20, 2018 at 4:09 pm #76361
Those would be an easy solution.
What speed did you end up with? I’m liking 2000mm/min.November 21, 2018 at 10:42 am #76432
I’ll have to look at my settings when I get home, but I remember something like 50mm/sec, so half again faster than yours.November 21, 2018 at 2:24 pm #76483
So, it took about 2 seconds to convert an SPI TMC2130 into a standalone, in silent mode. So I soldered the SPI bypass jumper or whatever that’s called, and left the cfg 4 and 5 in place, and just swapped out the drivers in the Grbl_ESP32 board, and voila! It’s super quiet.
Last night, I had it just running a multi-hour wipe program, wipe after wipe after wipe, and all during dinner, it was loud enough that I could barely hear it through the ceiling (it’s in the room above the dining room). I couldn’t hear it when the heater came on, so it’s not like it was that distracting, but it was through a floor. Today, with the TMCs in standalone quiet mode, it sounds a little quieter than it did from the dining room. That as scientific as I can get. It’s at least 1 ceiling’s worth of attenuation.
If someone is interested, I can post a picture from the bottom of the drivers. I think it’s self explanatory. The other thing I did was adjust the pot (because it’s not set by SPI anymore) to 0.5V (it’s just a sand table, and I’m not exactly sure what the amperage of that is). The direction was backwards, and it’s got 1/16th steps (interpolated to 256), but otherwise, it was a straight swap.November 21, 2018 at 2:25 pm #76484
Another totally scientific measurement: My wife noticed that it was a lot quieter and commented on her own about it.November 21, 2018 at 2:26 pm #76485
I’ll have to look at my settings when I get home, but I remember something like 50mm/sec, so half again faster than yours.
Yeah 50mm/sec is 3000mm/min. I usually think in mm/s, but I can’t do that in the gcode files, so I’ve been thinking in F2000 numbers. F3000 is a bit louder. I think I could argue that a little slower is actually a good thing, because it is so hypnotic.November 21, 2018 at 3:14 pm #76487
My wife noticed that it was a lot quieter and commented on her own about it.
The most important test. Tells you two things, She thought is was loud before, and now it is less loud. This test does not tell you if if is quiet enough yet, because she still noticed it, So I would lean towards it is not.
I am going to try and whip up some drop in no bearing replacements so we can test them out. That way we can make sure they are more quiet and if they last.
I will do my best not to redesign the entire machine, but no promises are being made in this post.
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